well guys.i found out whats up with my truck

believe what you want i was honestly driving normal.. i'v only sprayed this truck twice an only a 75 shot nothing more..and thats the honest to gods truth... i'l tell you the story.. i went to a Meet with my old truck club "Hemi truck Club" in north texas the guy i followed up there drives an SRT8 Jeep GC we were mesing around on the way up there no big deal we go to leave and we run a good 90+ MPH trip back to home a good 50 miles we are messing around and this RX7 deside he wants to play.. you could tell he had stuff done to the motor.. gauges special licens plate the hole nine yards... i'll give him credit he gave me and the jeep a good run for our money.. i lined up with the rx7 to do a run from around 70... down shifted to 3rd and let her rip...next thing i know tink tink tink is all i hear i get off of it.. it stops.. get back into the throttle and it starts again.. me and the guy in the srt8 stop an pull over.. we were 5 miles from home so i told him that i'd take care of it and let him know what the deal was......and here i am......trust me dude i don't beat on this truck every thing i'v done to this truck it should be able to handle it... a 75 shot of spray ain't jack... and if you think thats the reason that cause this your mistaken... if this truck can only handle a 75 shot as to my hemi that had a 175 shot and was taken to the drag strip every weekend on a stock bottom and top end that i drive almost everyday " it also has over 100k miles on it an it's also an 05".....then it's junk... i'm sorry but don't try to say theres more to this story.. most everyone on this forum knows that this isn't the kind of truck everyone wants you can't go to the dealership and see a hole line and pick what color you want...anyway.. when i took the truck to the dealership there was nothing on the truck that could be remotely link to nitrous.. no wires,relays,nozzls, solenoids, there was nothing.. i uninstalled the complete system.....i'm sorry but iu'm not going to tear up a truck that i enjoy driving so much.. plus the chicks like it to much :rock:
 
Last edited:
This whole issue may indeed go directly to your installation of the throttle body and it seems you understand that. If a screw is missing then you did not score it the way the instructions said. I don't think we should be trying to find blame, you obviously know what happened. If the intake eats a bolt, the engine is going to be trashed.

The focus here should be on where Tooloe can start with a rebuild...if you do it yourself it is going to be a huge job...on the other hand if you send it somewhere you need to be confident that you will get what you want.

This certainly is a great opportunity to get the engine you want. Draft your plan and be sure you have a specific goal. You have taken the best step in getting it out of the dealer's hands.

In my opinion, if I were in your situation, I would contact your preferred builder and spend an hour on the phone deciding and costing where you want to be in a couple of months...then you and the builder can share the workload. (I would pay to have it all done, but that is just me, you may want to be involved in some of the process.)

But if you begin with the "end in mind"...you will not be changing your mind as you progress...while there will be unexpected happenings, you will be working in a sequence that most likely will yield a good outcome. It is going to be expensive and it will take months...but your end product will be just what you want.

And my editorial comment...once we use power adders, we all really know that we have moved beyond the warranty boundaries. And if we have a bad experience, it is a part of the process of having a performance truck. If you have a legitimate issue that Dodge should handle that is fine, but if we have gone beyond the limits of the warranty then we need to be prepared to pay.
 
just curious, Tooloe... did you inspect the TB shaft ? is there still thread in the "missing bolt" hole ? Are the others fine and still firm ?
Could it be that that thread was over-torqued ? I noticed it and took care in that way that we have only 1/2 diameter shaft with thread...which is not much...

hope the best for ye ! :rock:
 
thanks guys..yes prof.. i completely agree.. and i understand that it was more or less myfault....the only thing that really burned my bun was when i was up at the dealership..and they voided the warrenty cause of the throttlebody.. but it was still on the intake and they didn't even know if the bolt was out of the TB shaft....i asked how they could void the warrenty if they wernt even sure that.. the Tb was the main cause.... i mean i knew it was more than likely it but come on you would figuer that they would at least look at it into detail...an i completely agree that i could have over tq'd the screw.. i have a very bad habbit of doing that....and this whole thing does come down to you have to pay to play.. and i understand that...no there were no threads left in the bolt hole on the tb shaft.. i'm planing on calling the company that holds my warrenty and raise hell about them not checking that.. that was the sole reason .. why my enigine failed......but yes i am planing out my build with a few guys from this site..what ever i do it will be done right and not half assed and i'l try to gain as many Horses as i can along the way :)..an sry for going ape shit earlier.. i mean you just don't tear up this kinda truck..... it's not something you get bored and you like "self i going to go screw my truck up today" anyway thakns forallthe help if yall have any recomdations on parts and people to talk to i'm all ears!
 
So if your A/C goes out can you get that fixed? I am under the impression that if you do something void out the warranty it is only for that particular part of the truck (ie engine) Just curious...

Good luck with your build. Please keep us updated!
 
would help if you could post a pic of the bolt hole and location ,,,just so other peeps can see what will happen ,,,thanks
 
Yeah, Taliban Dan can help you at an inexpensive price. He does quality work. Mine is getting put together right now.

We can get your heads ported and polished too (around 1700 delivered) with 3 angle racing valve job.

I have about 7-8 good Diamond pistons on stock rods right now I am not using. (can't pull them off without damaging the pistons, I have tried). If you are just replacing the stockers to reduce your cost. Put as I have found out, if going FI or more, need forged/billet rods.
 
amtrucker22 said:
So if your A/C goes out can you get that fixed? I am under the impression that if you do something void out the warranty it is only for that particular part of the truck (ie engine) Just curious...

Good luck with your build. Please keep us updated!
Click to expand...


I doubt that any dealer would fail to service non-affected systems. The service managers see that as reimbursable revenue that had nothing to do with the engine problem...so if your windows don't work or the air goes out...most any dealer would work with that...

Now lets turn this thread into fun.

Taliban Dan would be a great resource as would Joe Donovan, also Dan at DC Performance would be a man to talk to. I'm not sure if Sean Roe is still doing truck engines or not...

This should be a wonderful learning build for all of us!
 
sweet ill def keep you in mind about the p&p job..my only concern is that..the head is kinda scard.... not bad or real deep....so thats why im thinking about the port an polish job to get it all smoothed back out...seems like itd be the 1st route id like to go since a good set of heads an a cam are close to 5 or 6 grand......im going to have to get better pictures for every one so we can start working deals...an know what i can and cant do.....so heres the list so far i think that id like to do or am going to need........

new head - port an polish might just save the head
new pistons- if i can up grade for cheap great..if not stockers
cam- not sure which one i want or whats really out there
intake- want it also ported an polished
hardend push rods- just seems like a good idea
take the block an have it resleeved..

and i think thats about it.....how much do you want for those dimond pistons?....an how come u only got 7 or 8 of them lol
 
Whoa....IMO you must go with forged rods, pistons and push rods.

If you are in there take the bottom end to a point where if you wanted to you could go to 1100 hp if you wanted. Without forged as mentioned above...700 hp is about the limit. With forged components you will be free to do as you please without taking your engine down again. The stock pistons and rods are the real weak points...

Others will say Jessel rocker arms too...

Let's hear some opinions here...
 
Last edited:
Roy, I agree. The expensive part is time, not parts. You will spend a fortune to get back into the bottom end if you ever decide you want forged reliability. My focus on my build was the bottom end first. I figure I can get back into the heads more efficiently if I want to do more. But Joe did do a porting and larger valve on mine.
 
see thanks thats the info i am looking for keep em coming...... i thought about going ahead and going forged but was up sure about the hole deal.. solike is aid keep em coming... i go back to work tonight and will be gone 7 days i'll try to make it back home to snap som pictures for yall wed or so.. so we can get this ball moving alittle bit more
 
how much can you get the new gen 4, 600 hp motor for? Someone over on one of the viper forums had one for sale not to long ago.
 
i'v been thinking about going that route to i haven't really priced one out i guess... something to look into.... hmmmmmm as of now i'm waiting on the truck to show up via flat bed tow truck...pictures tofollow as soon as it gets here
 
A couple quick comments:
1. A new OE piston / rod assembly is $85. A rod bearing is $3. A ring pack for the entire engine is about $130. If you had to get it back on the road without going the forged and built route, you could do it very inexpensively, assuming the cylinder wall can be cleaned up with a stone glaze breaker. The head may need a little work though, like a valve or valve seat clean up.
2. If the TB shaft has no threads on that hole, it was probably because the factory screw was not ground off enough and stripped the threads out of the shaft as it was removed. If the threads are stripped out of one, you can use just three screws to hold the blade in (put silicone in the open hole). If it happens to more than one, use a longer screw and nut on the other side as needed.
Sorry to hear this happened.

Regards,
Sean
 
ahhh no biggie man....shit happends lol.......thanks for the prices but i'm set on building this thing... i mean it's alreayd out of the truck or will be.... so i might as well get it done and have fun doing it :)..also about the screw idk what happend but the throttle body is at my shop waiting on me to weld the holes up lol..so this will not happen again
 
Once again Sean Roe steps to the plate. More like a big brother than a vendor.

Roe Racing Rocks!
 
good luck with your rebuild...

http://www.exoticengine.net/2006/11/2005-dodge-ram-srt-quad-cab-build-up-–-“phase-one”/

I think someone already mentioned exotic engines to possibly do your work.... according to this link that engine pushes out ~530rwhp.... for ~under 25K <in parts>....
I think a few others here have had work done there ... and I believe the tank's engine was built there as well...

good luck :)

p.s. who's truck is that anyway?? anyone know?
 
Whenever the insurance closes on woodys truck i will be selling the motor for his wife. It has 350 miles on it. It has all new bearings , cam , diamond pistons, roe s/c. , balanced, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Random Media

Pic#8
DSC00796
Dave 2 032011
"CYALATA"
Back
Top