What it takes to build a reliable engine

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

since there are a few out there that are doing builds at this moment.

lets talk motors, post up what you think needs to go into a good reliable motor build and why.

This can go from a basic rebuild to the extreme build, who knows maybe we can help some fellas out.

Post up, your questions also, with the knowledge on this forum, i think we can hash most things out:rock:

 

[eddie102870]

send it to hennesey j/k couldnt resist

 

[Tooloe]

well i guess ill throw my .02 cents into this one........
for starters you have to find a builder you trust an one that will talk to you more than just business...also you have got to go into the build with a plan..what you goals are...next is how much you want to spend...i mean im building a n/a motor that will be sprayed every now an then...im looking at maybe 700-800 rwhp on juice... on the N/A side of things you know pretty much what everybody else is running but somthings are over kill for your build like my build there is no need for say oliver rods....when i can get a rod that will do the same thing for a cheaper price.. an im not saying go cheaper.. im saying look around shop an talk to people ..iv got a completely forged build for under 10 grand ...ill talk more about this later im riding in the car with my gf on my phone

 

[Ram From Hell]

Aside from installing forged pistons and rods, I'd say using coated bearings and pistons is good for engine longevity. The oil pump mod is also a must, and inexpensive as well.

However, as mentioned above, it isn't worth a tinker's dam if you don't have a builder who will build it correctly, on time, and on budget; not to mention having a great tuner to dial it in properly.

 

[THEWELSHM]

Would I be an " Idiot" if I suggested balancing the crank rods etc????

thewelshm

 

[TNVIPER]

Would I be an " Idiot" if I suggested balancing the crank rods etc????

thewelshm

If you are I am too...mine are balanced..:marchmellow:

 

[FATJACK]

Always balance any performance build.

 

[Ram From Hell]

Always balance any performance build.

Ditto.

Further, I don't think ANY build should be done without static and rotational balancing.

You're engine's already out, being built, and you've spent the dough on the parts. You'd be foolish not to spend a little more to optimize it. Even if it's a non-performance build, you can just about guarantee better engine life (all other things being equal, and being well maintained) by adopting some of the tricks of the performance trade.

 

[Tooloe]

call me stupid but what is this oil pump mod?

 

[perk_1405]

call me stupid but what is this oil pump mod?

yeah me too..:dontknow: b/c mines apart right now.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

ok, lets start off with Rammy's post.........oil pump mod



splain Lucy

 

[Ram From Hell]

ok, lets start off with Rammy's post.........oil pump mod

splain Lucy

It's just a bypass valve mod.

Not a lot to explain, but this thread covers the details.

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21842&highlight=oil+pump

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

just an update on the oil filter "whine" thingie that i had been chasin for awhile.
got in touch with Kevin & he hooked me up with the fix for it. basicly a redesigned valve assembly.
have run it it different temps.,outside, & the same r.p.m.'s & engine temps. no prob.
thanks Kevin
the photos are of the old valve installed. have to take off fan belt & remove a/c comp. & swing out of the way
old valve removed
tried a shot down the by-pass bore
the last one is of the 3 styles that i know of.
top one is stock
middle one is what ya get when you order it from Dodge. looked way too short to me. Dodge updated the plunger & spring & not the cap.
bottom one is from Kevin. a bit different.




Ko , oil mod taken care of , whats next fellas

 

[kyle's srt10]

I have heard from several people and engine builders that the stock rods are actually pretty good rods:dontknow:

So depending on what you were doing with your motor and expecting hp wise would intel forged rods or not

 

[Prof]

Just my approach...not for everyone...

Either go with the brand name parts that the builder recommends or choose a builder that uses the parts that you want to use. Think about it!

Main bores in block should have oil reservoirs machined into them.

Crankshaft should be Nitrided, ground and polished to size for proper clearance. Entire rotating assembly must be balanced.

Pistons ceramic coated on decks of pistons with Moly coating on piston skirts. Floating piston pin for strength and light weight, rings should be file fit for proper ring gaps in bores.

Upgrade Rod Bolts-bolts to 6.250” for better internal geometry.

Heads: Use stainless exhaust valves. Use Beehive springs, titanium retainers, new keepers and seals.

Use Gen 4 main bearings for 160 degree oiling, with extra feed hole for volume. Teflon coat main and rod bearings.

Chrome Moly pushrods used for strength.

Assemble engine on a flat surface instead of a rollover stand so that stresses would not be induced into the engine build. Use Cometic Head Gaskets and ARP Head Studs. Use new Needle Bearing and Pilot Bearing in the back of the Crank and a new 1 piece Oil Control Valve in the oil pump.

Be willing to pay for this kind of build.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Many of us can't afford all that Prof:dontknow: I know I can't

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Many of us can't afford all that Prof:dontknow: I know I can't

with me u can

 

[kyle's srt10]

Just my approach...not for everyone...

Either go with the brand name parts that the builder recommends or choose a builder that uses the parts that you want to use. Think about it!

Main bores in block should have oil reservoirs machined into them.

Crankshaft should be Nitrided, ground and polished to size for proper clearance. Entire rotating assembly must be balanced.

Pistons ceramic coated on decks of pistons with Moly coating on piston skirts. Floating piston pin for strength and light weight, rings should be file fit for proper ring gaps in bores.

Upgrade Rod Bolts-bolts to 6.250â€￾ for better internal geometry.

Heads: Use stainless exhaust valves. Use Beehive springs, titanium retainers, new keepers and seals.

Use Gen 4 main bearings for 160 degree oiling, with extra feed hole for volume. Teflon coat main and rod bearings.

Chrome Moly pushrods used for strength.

Assemble engine on a flat surface instead of a rollover stand so that stresses would not be induced into the engine build. Use Cometic Head Gaskets and ARP Head Studs. Use new Needle Bearing and Pilot Bearing in the back of the Crank and a new 1 piece Oil Control Valve in the oil pump.

Be willing to pay for this kind of build.

You may be correct Roy:dontknow: BUT.......

I'm with the bigger percentage if not most the members on this forum that can't afford to do all of that.

That kind of build would approach the 20k range

 

[LoveThisTruck]

with me u can

Prove it Stink ... I'd much rather have my money go to you, but with shipping of the truck, or having the motor pulled and shipped, and all that... I don't think I could do it:dontknow:

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Many of us can't afford all that Prof:dontknow: I know I can't

then upgrade with what you can afford, i am going with just pistons and rods, is it the best way but for my mods it is the best solution to longevity, everyone has different goals , like prof has a build that was in his budget, I am going with a build in my budget, but then again I drive mine daily and Prof (if he ever took it racin again) is a weekend crusier so regardless of money spent I will probabally have to redo mine sooner then he will. Also no matter what if you race it hard you are cutting down on longevity by maybe 1/4 or little less then normal usage:marchmellow: So like the Prof says plan first then build.:marchmellow: :burnout: