What it takes to build a reliable engine

thats them.:rock: :rock: :rock:
forgot to look there:( :( :D
 
Stinker said:
ahem, me an prof dissagree a little bit there:p but i still luv him:D

but bascially the gen IV bearing is grooved, like the federal mogul bearing is, it provides oiling on one side of the bearing and gives more oiling to the crank.

which it me........eh its good, neccessarry? well havent heard of a crank bearing going out;) , but i always quote withthem anyway, jsut xtra insurance;)

the gen IV bearing , i think , Like someoone else posted is just another part dodge combined and comes from the srt 8 hemi motors. something they started doing last year on them i think.

but I jsut got a deal today with a coating company near me in the nascar build area and now can get all the same coatings that they are using in nascar, which I dont know, says a little I guess about there quality, but to me the best thing is they are close
Click to expand...

Sounds really good about the coatings, but what about this extra feed hole that Prof talks about?
 
yellowfever#154 said:
Sounds really good about the coatings, but what about this extra feed hole that Prof talks about?
Click to expand...
excuse my spelling:p


but you can chamfer in another feed for oil into the bearing , to me , i dont think its really needed, but it can be done, but there are tons of engines out there running over 1000hp on pump gas with minor or little modifications in that area.

if anything a dry sump would be best. the coatings, and the groove is gonna doo soo much more than the eom system ever did.

cmon prof, get you lil flat ass up here and debat with me:argh: :p
 
Stinker said:
excuse my spelling:p


but you can chamfer in another feed for oil into the bearing , to me , i dont think its really needed, but it can be done, but there are tons of engines out there running over 1000hp on pump gas with minor or little modifications in that area.

if anything a dry sump would be best. the coatings, and the groove is gonna doo soo much more than the eom system ever did.

cmon prof, get you lil flat ass up here and debat with me:argh: :p
Click to expand...

What if I want 2000hp:dontknow:
 
Stinker said:
excuse my spelling:p


but you can chamfer in another feed for oil into the bearing , to me , i dont think its really needed, but it can be done, but there are tons of engines out there running over 1000hp on pump gas with minor or little modifications in that area.

if anything a dry sump would be best. the coatings, and the groove is gonna doo soo much more than the eom system ever did.

cmon prof, get you lil flat ass up here and debat with me:argh: :p
Click to expand...


Never had grease on my hands...my approach is just an academic approach...reading and compiling...looking for those things that seem logical and rational...but I would not know a worn bearing from a new one...

Not willing to debate things I know nothing about...I just listen to the experts.
 
Prof said:
Never had grease on my hands...my approach is just an academic approach...reading and compiling...looking for those things that seem logical and rational...but I would not know a worn bearing from a new one...

Not willing to debate things I know nothing about...I just listen to the experts.
Click to expand...


you get your ass in here, you have done tons of research as I, and I respect everything and anything anyone can provide:rock:

hell if there is a better way, I want to do it, thats why i have been doing what I have for the past few weeks;)

You did your research, and i too want to listen and learn.

now put the newspaper down and play with us:marchmellow:
 
yellowfever#154 said:
What if I want 2000hp:dontknow:
Click to expand...

build a real nice corral :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
For 1500hp I'd use Oliver rods, CP pistons, billet bearing caps, full head work, custom cam, new oil pump, new lifters (possibly go solid instead of hydraulic), stainless valves with titanium retainers, ARP studs. IMO don't worry about nitriding the crank. Consider main cap girdle if you are spraying a big shot, mid plate, dry sump. Those are not must haves but wouldn't hurt.

Guys that are trying to avoid spending 15 grand... this will be VERY difficult. It is a couple grand to pull, strip, and reinstall the engine. There isn't a big change in labor to go from a 1000hp to a 1500hp build. When I did mine the 1200hp version was 13k, 1500+ was 16.5k. So for 3.5k I got the Oliver rods, offset grind crank, billet caps, and a couple other things. Once you start talking about building the engine you have entered a new level of expense and this is not something that you should try to do on the cheap, you will just end up doing it again.
 
Scrambler1 said:
...Once you start talking about building the engine you have entered a new level of expense and this is not something that you should try to do on the cheap, you will just end up doing it again.
Click to expand...


Wisdom:

You don't finance a hot rod.

You don't go cheap on a engine build.

And you never spit in a Silverback's face.
 
Prof said:
Wisdom:

You don't finance a hot rod.

You don't go cheap on a engine build.

And you never spit in a Silverback's face.
Click to expand...
not one word about politics?:dontknow:
 
You financed a hot rod...with oil at under $40, and you work in the oil industry?
 
yellowfever#154 said:
What if I want 2000hp:dontknow:
Click to expand...

Uh, 575cid BBC w/ twin 88mm turbos, 16 90# injectors, 117 octane gas.:D

...or 468cid BBC w/ 14-71 hi-helix blower, 40psi, methanol:eek:

There are significantly cheaper and more reliable ways of playing at those kinds of power levels than with a Viper engine.;)
 
Ike be careful bo, anyone can quote you anything, its the details of the build that count and what goes inside.

and they cant guarantee 1000 hp 1500hp, or even 12 hp on a build, they can say its good for that hp, but dont mean you will make it;)


but I know David well, and what he is paying for motors, and 7500 good for 1000hp and "installed"? uh, thats a littel out there;)

but if so, jsut remember, you get what you pay for, if ya got a ten dollar head, buy a ten dollar helmet.
 
If your going to build your motor do it right.

Block - Needs to be resleaved, line bored blah blah blah... Then tell them to bore it as big as they can!

Crank - Bryant Racing Custom, if you offset grind the stock crank the oiling holes are no longer centered, so get one built the right way.

Rods - Oliver

Pistons - Je 11:1

Heads - Strykers

Intake - Hogans Inkake

Exaust - Billy Boat Headers

Valve Train - Crower rockers, and push rods

Cam - ??????????????????????????






...and you have a 600+ ci viper motor...




Can I borrow 25,000$???
 
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