What it takes to build a reliable engine

[bigike]

You financed a hot rod...with oil at under $40, and you work in the oil industry?

Payment went down 300 dollars per month!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And Singapore is begging for me

Need that oil at 60 though

 

[bigike]

Ike be careful bo, anyone can quote you anything, its the details of the build that count and what goes inside.

and they cant guarantee 1000 hp 1500hp, or even 12 hp on a build, they can say its good for that hp, but dont mean you will make it


but I know David well, and what he is paying for motors, and 7500 good for 1000hp and "installed"? uh, thats a littel out there

but if so, jsut remember, you get what you pay for, if ya got a ten dollar head, buy a ten dollar helmet.

I guessed on the 1000hp

but I though it was good for 1000hp with pistons and rods................

If a stock engine is supposed to be good for 700.

said when you get into the bullet proof bottom end that build goes to 10000. with the install being 2000.

 

[Prof]

Payment went down 300 dollars per month!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And Singapore is begging for me

Need that oil at 60 though

I think all of us would be more comfortable with oil stabilized in the $60 - 70 range.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I guessed on the 1000hp

but I though it was good for 1000hp with pistons and rods................

If a stock engine is supposed to be good for 700.

said when you get into the bullet proof bottom end that build goes to 10000. with the install being 2000.

rods and pistons want get you an engine good for 1000hp

 

[Black1]

......
lets talk motors, post up what you think needs to go into a good reliable motor build and why.

......

It needs to have one of these on it someplace:

:dontknow:





:slug:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

later today I am gonna quote love this truck a price on a short block with good pistons and billet mains a bullet proof bottom end, we shall see what his price comes up to be

 

[rottenronnie]

I think all of us would be more comfortable with oil stabilized in the $60 - 70 range.

Interesting. I also work in the natural gas and oil industry. If you listen to all the doom and gloom through the media it does sound dismal.
Around here, production is down but infrastructure projects (big pipeline) are up. The majority of that money was allocated and spent a number of years ago. Someone is planning to move product (whether oil or gas or some new miracle energy source) through these pipes!

With China buying up most of Canada's high-grade ore, there exists the very real possibility that we won't have enough steel to complete the projects now. 1800 miles of 36"-42" pipe (only one of the projects) requires a lot of it!

Rumor is when prices go back up they will go WAY up!

As for the original topic of this thread:

Tony,

You picked a really big topic that can range from a completely stock rebuild to a TT setup with nitrous and everything in between.

The first thing I do is to try and determine how the vehicle will be used. A customer's build can have more safeguards built into it than say my own vehicle's engine, because I KNOW how it is driven.

This section ties to the oiling issue- Have there actually been oiling issues?
As for coated bearings-Hopefully there is OIL between the metal and the bearing surface anyway at reasonable power levels. The best a coating can do is to retain oil on the bearing itself, hopefully better than the o.e.m. bearings. If you are actually riding on the bearing coating itself, there is real trouble. A good idea though, I suppose. As for the need for those pricey new main bearings...Are the mains failing on these engines? I haven't seen it yet but I don't do a large number of Viper engines, either. For those that do a fair number of them- whats the deal?

The current popular issue- "Forging". It is always a good idea to use stronger pistons than stock in any high performance build. That has been a standard practice for a long time. For rods- I guess if it is in the budget, you could also improve those. At the very least, mag-particle the stockers, check the run out, esp. on the big-end and make sure the bolts are a.o.k.

A side note here- If a piston fails due to detonation (which ALL of the ones I have worked with have failed from) and breaks a chunk off the dome, does that make the piston(s) defective? And if the piston jams in the bore because of it and snaps a rod- Does that make the rod(s) defective? No.

It is such a wide open topic. Without a budget of some kind, not much else can happen.

Spend the money wisely.

Rotten

 

[Texas Yellow Fever]

What it really takes to build a reliable performance engine is money...and lots of it... :marchmellow: :marchmellow: :marchmellow:

 

[LoveThisTruck]

later today I am gonna quote love this truck a price on a short block with good pistons and billet mains a bullet proof bottom end, we shall see what his price comes up to be

:marchmellow: :marchmellow: :marchmellow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

:marchmellow: :marchmellow: :marchmellow:

i got a few things to do for a bit, but if you want I will even post it, but thats up to you brohan

 

[LoveThisTruck]

i got a few things to do for a bit, but if you want I will even post it, but thats up to you brohan

Do what you gotta do man. Doesn't matter to me:marchmellow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

yellowfever #154 and Luve dis

here ya go, jsut so everyone knows

and one of the reasons my deal may be cheaper than some others is basically

I WANT YOU BUSINESS! they may not stay like this forever
so my parts pricing is actually really low, i cant do a thing on the machining, its basically outta my hands.
and you will get what you pay for:rock: not finding one day when you open your engine up that you have eagle rods instead of oliver rods

but this is what you get for a short block( no heads or headwork)

bore and hone block
parallell deck block
align bore and finish hone for billet mains
balance assembly
assembly
acid wash
inspect crank
file fit rings
K1 rods(good for 1200hp)
wiseco pistons skirts coated w/rings, pins, locks
billet mains
arp billet main studs
bearings, rods and mains, both coated
gaskets

CC $8970 cash, check $8860


Pricing does not include shipping , install, removal.

also, most all engines will recieve a 1/2 overbore, most of the cylinders on the aluminum engines are found to not be perfectly round, so the better the seal, an overbore is automatically done.


thats a basic standard hardcore bottem end rebuild.

as before there is options such as oliver rods, ati dampners, cams, springs, lifters so on, those can be quoted seperatly.

One thing i do reccomend for longevity is an ATI dampner, and head studs if you plan on forced induction or a large shot of giggle juice

and out of courtesy , please dont ask me to do ten different quotes on differetn things

comp cams around $550
springs around $175
Vavles around $400 new manley race valves
ati dampner I thinkk they were $590- $600
cloyes true roller timing chain i think about $265
extrude hone intake $800
head studs $420
dyers rods i think were around...$2600?
harland sharp rockers , opps forgot the price
hardened push rods $160

Rings for Nos, add $100
above pricing may be flexible, they are CC pricing on some, some are stone , some are not.


one thing to remember if you ever go with a rod such as oliver or some other small block chevy deal, an xtra fee for machining the crank to small block chevy journal sizes will appply.

and also, you need to know what you are going to do with the engine, forced induction, nos, N/A, it makes a difference in the compression ratio and rings.



and since I got with a coating company here close by ,i can also coat the valves, the combustion chambers, headers, crank weights, rods, and so on, but dont have pricing on those as of yet.

 

[TNVIPER]

is there a core exchange Tony?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

is there a core exchange Tony?

he does have a couple blocks to do this with, but depends on the year models, tthe 04's are differnt from the 05's and naturally the autos are differnt.

so it really depends on what year it is, and if he has that one available.

 

[TNVIPER]

I reread your post.....I may have misunderstood it...I was thinking you included a block in your pricing...you actually using the customer's block..right?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I reread your post.....I may have misunderstood it...I was thinking you included a block in your pricing...you actually using the customer's block..right?

yes, that is using your block, and getting your block back.

i kinda prefer it that way really, some dont mind, but to me i always liked to know that my engine number actually matched the truck

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Looks good Tony... wish I could do it

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

and too forgot, but if you dont want or need billet mains, then subtract $1750

 

[Big Worm]

Stinker,
I have not forgot bout Stretch just ran into some walls here lately. However, is pirateman still doing the engines. I want to get my 98 cobra some TLC , pull the engine out and get her going.

 

[Prof]

here ya go, jsut so everyone knows

and one of the reasons my deal may be cheaper than some others is basically

I WANT YOU BUSINESS! they may not stay like this forever
so my parts pricing is actually really low, i cant do a thing on the machining, its basically outta my hands.
and you will get what you pay for:rock: not finding one day when you open your engine up that you have eagle rods instead of oliver rods

but this is what you get for a short block( no heads or headwork)

bore and hone block
parallell deck block
align bore and finish hone for billet mains
balance assembly
assembly
acid wash
inspect crank
file fit rings
K1 rods(good for 1200hp)
wiseco pistons skirts coated w/rings, pins, locks
billet mains
arp billet main studs
bearings, rods and mains, both coated
gaskets

CC $8970 cash, check $8860


Pricing does not include shipping , install, removal.

also, most all engines will recieve a 1/2 overbore, most of the cylinders on the aluminum engines are found to not be perfectly round, so the better the seal, an overbore is automatically done.


thats a basic standard hardcore bottem end rebuild.

as before there is options such as oliver rods, ati dampners, cams, springs, lifters so on, those can be quoted seperatly.

One thing i do reccomend for longevity is an ATI dampner, and head studs if you plan on forced induction or a large shot of giggle juice

and out of courtesy , please dont ask me to do ten different quotes on differetn things

comp cams around $550
springs around $175
Vavles around $400 new manley race valves
ati dampner I thinkk they were $590- $600
cloyes true roller timing chain i think about $265
extrude hone intake $800
head studs $420
dyers rods i think were around...$2600?
harland sharp rockers , opps forgot the price
hardened push rods $160

Rings for Nos, add $100
above pricing may be flexible, they are CC pricing on some, some are stone , some are not.


one thing to remember if you ever go with a rod such as oliver or some other small block chevy deal, an xtra fee for machining the crank to small block chevy journal sizes will appply.

and also, you need to know what you are going to do with the engine, forced induction, nos, N/A, it makes a difference in the compression ratio and rings.



and since I got with a coating company here close by ,i can also coat the valves, the combustion chambers, headers, crank weights, rods, and so on, but dont have pricing on those as of yet.

OK brothers...if you want to build an engine...Stinker has layed it on the line...with options if you wish...

No one can be trusted more....

If you have not decided to do this, now is the time...I am thinking about finding a block and just having him do this to have a back up...it is that good a deal!