What it takes to build a reliable engine

[LoveThisTruck]

then upgrade with what you can afford, i am going with just pistons and rods, is it the best way but for my mods it is the best solution to longevity, everyone has different goals , like prof has a build that was in his budget, I am going with a build in my budget, but then again I drive mine daily and Prof (if he ever took it racin again) is a weekend crusier so regardless of money spent I will probabally have to redo mine sooner then he will. Also no matter what if you race it hard you are cutting down on longevity by maybe 1/4 or little less then normal usage:marchmellow: So like the Prof says plan first then build.:marchmellow: :burnout:

I'm doing pretty much the same thing man. Rods, pistons, and mains. I'm working hard to get the money together. I'd wait and save up, and do something like Prof did... I'm just afraid my motor won't last that long

 

[kyle's srt10]

I'm doing pretty much the same thing man. Rods, pistons, and mains. I'm working hard to get the money together. I'd wait and save up, and do something like Prof did... I'm just afraid my motor won't last that long

This build will stll not be cheap If your doing rods and mains might as well do cam,pushrods,stainless valves

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Prove it Stink ... I'd much rather have my money go to you, but with shipping of the truck, or having the motor pulled and shipped, and all that... I don't think I could do it:dontknow:

jsut for instance, now this is parts only

rods $800 good for 1200hp with arp bolts

pistons $1450 wiseco, prem rings, pins, locks

Manley stainless valves around $390

spirngs around $170

you dont need the crank nitrided(sorry prof ) our cranks are superb

head studs arp $420

billet mains, arp studs, line boring around $1800 i think?

and coated bearings, the good ones, $500 for rods and mains


adn the best thing is , i spent the day with a coating company here close to me:rock:

i can now get anything coated, from heads, to valves, and even the allmighty jet hot coating

and I do mean anything

skirts is really the only thing you really need coated tho. domes? ehhh, personal prefernce

 

[Ironhead]

but are those the duel springs i fixed you up with ????

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

but are those the duel springs i fixed you up with ????

LOOLOL no sir, those things are the shizit!, Send me that freaking link again, i need to call those guys and see what we can do with them

 

[LoveThisTruck]

This build will stll not be cheap If your doing rods and mains might as well do cam,pushrods,stainless valves

I know, and I would do all that if I had the extra $$$ laying around:dontknow:

 

[Ironhead]

stinkman pm sent

 

[LoveThisTruck]

jsut for instance, now this is parts only

rods $800 good for 1200hp with arp bolts

pistons $1450 wiseco, prem rings, pins, locks

Manley stainless valves around $390

spirngs around $170

you dont need the crank nitrided(sorry prof ) our cranks are superb

head studs arp $420

billet mains, arp studs, line boring around $1800 i think?

and coated bearings, the good ones, $500 for rods and mains


adn the best thing is , i spent the day with a coating company here close to me:rock:

i can now get anything coated, from heads, to valves, and even the allmighty jet hot coating

and I do mean anything

skirts is really the only thing you really need coated tho. domes? ehhh, personal prefernce

I just sent you a PM.

So that's about $5500 for parts... labor? tuning? shipping the truck?:dontknow: It'll easily double

 

[kyle's srt10]

I just sent you a PM.

So that's about $5500 for parts... labor? tuning? shipping the truck?:dontknow: It'll easily double

I would say you will approach 15k if your having you truck shipped and a turn key job done:dontknow:

 

[LoveThisTruck]

I would say you will approach 15k if your having you truck shipped and a turn key job done:dontknow:

That's what I figured.... no can do

 

[kyle's srt10]

That's what I figured.... no can do

At least yours still runs:banghead: :banghead:

 

[DevilDawg3097]

I'm doing pretty much the same thing man. Rods, pistons, and mains. I'm working hard to get the money together. I'd wait and save up, and do something like Prof did... I'm just afraid my motor won't last that long

Your build should last you a while your not racing it everyday are you? With the way Prof Drives his you can burn up a stock neon as a daily driver before his goes but that was the build he decieded on now Dom and the other monsters will have to replace parts after a couple seasons. So it all depends on the HP you want and How much are you going to push the envelope on the forged parts like we do on stock parts. Also just speaking about the Roe, if you look at how many roe s/c are out there the blown motors are a small % when tuned by mr magic himself the problem comes when we try to go past its intial design.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

At least yours still runs:banghead: :banghead:

Not really. It's just sitting now(1500 miles away from me) because I'm scared to death with the way these engines have been going

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Your build should last you a while your not racing it everyday are you? With the way Prof Drives his you can burn up a stock neon as a daily driver before his goes but that was the build he decieded on now Dom and the other monsters will have to replace parts after a couple seasons. So it all depends on the HP you want and How much are you going to push the envelope on the forged parts like we do on stock parts. Also just speaking about the Roe, if you look at how many roe s/c are out there the blown motors are a small % when tuned by mr magic himself the problem comes when we try to go past its intial design.

I'm just going to have the 10# pulley on there. It won't be raced often at all. I'll probably drive it twice a week or so. I get on it pretty good here and there, but I don't beat on it ya know

 

[Ironhead]

beat that beatch like an exwife lol:rock:

 

[kyle's srt10]

beat that beatch like an exwife lol:rock:

Maybe your MEAT James!!!:dontknow: :dontknow:

 

[Ironhead]

Maybe your MEAT James!!!:dontknow: :dontknow:

dont be jellous cause mine still runs lol,,its unbecoming of you lol

 

[yellowfever#154]

Stinker, Ill take the build that Prof is talking about. Explain the Gen 4 main bearings and 160 degree oiling and extra feed hole a little more. Do we have to drill another oil gallery to achive this?

 

[ZCx]

well hell, can't find any photos of Stinker's oil lines.
where did the old photos go???????

any way. it should go forged, STINKER'S OIL LINES, then whatever melts your Parkay
:rock: :burnout: :rock: :burnout: :rock: :burnout: :rock: :burnout:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Stinker, Ill take the build that Prof is talking about. Explain the Gen 4 main bearings and 160 degree oiling and extra feed hole a little more. Do we have to drill another oil gallery to achive this?

ahem, me an prof dissagree a little bit there but i still luv him

but bascially the gen IV bearing is grooved, like the federal mogul bearing is, it provides oiling on one side of the bearing and gives more oiling to the crank.

which it me........eh its good, neccessarry? well havent heard of a crank bearing going out , but i always quote withthem anyway, jsut xtra insurance

the gen IV bearing , i think , Like someoone else posted is just another part dodge combined and comes from the srt 8 hemi motors. something they started doing last year on them i think.

but I jsut got a deal today with a coating company near me in the nascar build area and now can get all the same coatings that they are using in nascar, which I dont know, says a little I guess about there quality, but to me the best thing is they are close