What it takes to build a reliable engine

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

OK brothers...if you want to build an engine...Stinker has layed it on the line...with options if you wish...

No one can be trusted more....

If you have not decided to do this, now is the time...I am thinking about finding a block and just having him do this to have a back up...it is that good a deal!

thank you so much Prof, comming from you that means a ton to me:rock:

i hope to be able to put out very well engineered engines and to give people what they desire.

and maybe if I am a real good boy, things will grow to a very nice buisiness


eddies short block is going to be very similiar, with the exception he is going with oliver rods, and some head work, i actually got his valves in the other day.

wolfram's engine is a bit different, his is being built for road racing to withstand running at 5000rpms for a suspended period of time

 

[kyle's srt10]

OK brothers...if you want to build an engine...Stinker has layed it on the line...with options if you wish...

No one can be trusted more....

If you have not decided to do this, now is the time...I am thinking about finding a block and just having him do this to have a back up...it is that good a deal!

Your kidding right?????:dontknow: :dontknow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Actually with what Prof is doing with his truck, in the end it will honestly be one of the top ten trucks on the forum.:rock:

and when you go to the extremes of some............and you have the ability........a backup is never a bad idea:rock:

 

[Prof]

Your kidding right?????:dontknow: :dontknow:

No not at all...it would be a great conversation piece and I have a glass top that would be perfect...if I didn't need it for the truck...I might find an Anglia to squeeze it into!

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

One thing everyone needs to understand about big builds also, and this is a very serious statement all should heed.


When aiming for 1000+hp, you need to understand that no matter how well the engine is built, if you continuouly run at 1000hp, you will wear the engine quickly, so be prepared to do a rebuild every 20,000 miles, and i dont care who builds the motor


if you do plan on making big numbers, do yourself a favor, make sure you have a tune so that on normal driving you can stay around 700hp, and another when you want to get serious, and one for strickly racing.

that way you engine will provide you with many miles of good service.

 

[kyle's srt10]

So what your saying is that Roy's engine is going to last him a REALLY long time

 

[Prof]

My engine is destined to be the strongest, quickest, fastest and most powerful 14 second engine in all of Wadsworth, IL (just the incorporated area)...for years to come!

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

So what your saying is that Roy's engine is going to last him a REALLY long time

You would really be surprised at how fast Roys truck really is some dont feel the need to brag about times or how fast they are, but instead enjoy the fruits of there labor and passions:rock:

 

[kyle's srt10]

You would really be surprised at how fast Roys truck really is some dont feel the need to brag about times or how fast they are, but instead enjoy the fruits of there labor and passions:rock:

Mr. Roy is the one that sold me on the Roe in the test drive before his engine build last year:rock: HELL it was quick then!!!:rock: :rock:

 

[pokeytemplar]

If your going to build your motor do it right.

Block - Needs to be resleaved, line bored blah blah blah... Then tell them to bore it as big as they can!

Crank - Bryant Racing Custom, if you offset grind the stock crank the oiling holes are no longer centered, so get one built the right way.

Rods - Oliver

Pistons - Je 11:1

Heads - Strykers

Intake - Hogans Inkake

Exaust - Billy Boat Headers

Valve Train - Crower rockers, and push rods

Cam - ??????????????????????????






...and you have a 600+ ci viper motor...




Can I borrow 25,000$???

That will have to be one hell of a stroker crank. Biggest reliable bore for vipers is 4.16" (especially Gen 3) Gen 2's maybe can squeak in a 4.25" but only Hennessey will do it (does that say anything?). Moldex makes cranks as well. I believe they are building all of Lingenfelter's 4.25" cranks. Just don't see how they are putting those in viper engines with a 6.25" rod.

So I guess you could get their crank and then get Hennessey to sleeve it for you for 603ci. But why stop there? Get him to do a .030 over bore and you get hit the magical 10Liters!

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Hey Stink, how much does a good set of billet mains run??

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Hey Stink, how much does a good set of billet mains run??

Normally sell them to you guys for about $750, and i can get the stud kits in Arp also usually around the $350 mark.

i would have to actually check the pricing , its kinda off the top of my head, and its 1.30 am here

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Normally sell them to you guys for about $750, and i can get the stud kits in Arp also usually around the $350 mark.

i would have to actually check the pricing , its kinda off the top of my head, and its 1.30 am here

LOL your a hard workin man. Thanks Stink:rock:

 

[Bone]

Normally sell them to you guys for about $750, and i can get the stud kits in Arp also usually around the $350 mark.

i would have to actually check the pricing , its kinda off the top of my head, and its 1.30 am here

That sounds correct. You may also need some custom work with the mains and studs. Definitely if you have a Roe SC base plate.

ARPs are over 3 times stronger in tensile strength than stockers. (and reusable)

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

LOL your a hard workin man. Thanks Stink:rock:

your welcome sweet cheecks

 

[Ram From Hell]

if you do plan on making big numbers, do yourself a favor, make sure you have a tune so that on normal driving you can stay around 700hp, and another when you want to get serious, and one for strickly racing.

that way you engine will provide you with many miles of good service.

There's really no reason to do that if:

A. You plan on always running pump gas.

B. You exercise common sense when depressing the gas pedal.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

and who is gonna do that!?LOOLOLOLO

 

[JRSVIPR]

and who is gonna do that!?LOOLOLOLO

Common sense tells you to stomp on it.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Common sense tells you to stomp on it.

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

 

[tinygiants]

It's just a bypass valve mod.

Not a lot to explain, but this thread covers the details.

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21842&highlight=oil+pump

I got more info on this today. It is a little more than the bypass. In my motor, they installed a different gear rotor in the oil pump. This was not really documented very well in my invoice from Arrow Racing. So when I saw pressures exceeding 70 psi, I called Joe at PBJ. I replaced the oil sending unit thinking it was fouled. I still had high pressure, so I called Joe again. After conferencing with Arrow, we learned that they had in fact changed the pump set up to run at 70 - 100 psi. The only thing I have to do is be sure to use a sturdy oil filter such as the Mobile 1 or similar triple wall filters.