WHAT THE HELL???

ARRESTmeRed04 said:
tone, i would just deal with stinker if i we're you, i ordered caltracs and 2" blocks from him a while back and anything i had a question about he answered very quickly and i got my parts ASAP, on goof(spelling?) was i recived the tracking info for something ironhead bought i belive and though my parts were in houston:D but stink was on top of it and got it fixed
so you were the one that gave me the free caltracks lol

and as i said in other thread all you need is a 350 lbs girlfreind in passenger seat and BANG your level ,,,or anthony in his moo-moo and a big bag of doritios and dip lol:D :D :D
 
tone said:
NEW BLOCKS NOW??? every damm time i think about buying a lowering kit for my truck someone says something is better, or this guy's kit is hard to install, or it dosn't fit right, dammmmm i just want to lower my truck the right way, and have it perform as close to stock as it can get.:mad: WHO IS HAPPY WITH THEIR DROP KIT AND WHERE DID THEY GET IT?:dontknow: PLEASE SHARE FELLAS.:)
i didn't go with a kit, i had mined lowered @ the local drop shop:

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22329&highlight=drop+shop
 
Ok I'm back girls:p

and to address the "safety" issue on drive line angle, on a two inch drop Tone ,drive line angle is not very cruicial, Your only talking about 2 degree's which isnt going to affect the u joints to the extreme of failing,
Drive line angle is more cruicial on a two piece driveshaft or a extrememly long driveshaft to where the angle is multiplied twice over.

To give a short explanation of driveline angle , when you accellerate the tires rotate forward, thus causing the nose of the pinion to pivot upwards, and what you want to acheive is under accelleration a + - 1 degree angle with the tailshaft of the transmission.

The blocks that I sell usually have about a 2 degree angle in them , it never was mentioned since most cannot tell that small of a difference in blocks.

If someone runs into a driveline problem or u joint failure with a two inch block whether it has an angle to it or not, they more than likely had a problem before the drop;)

With the QC's its very critical, for one you have a two part driveshaft, plus it is run thru a carrier. And the drop on those is usually around 5-6 inches in the rear.


My deal is continously changing to bring you fellas a better product, such as the addition of the energy suspension sway bar bushings added to the RC kit, I try to listen to each one of you and make changes as I can.

I hope this helps to understand just a little better Tone, if not you are more than welcome to call sir:D or if anyone has a problem with any of other manufacturers products, and need help , call:)
 
Stinker said:
Ok I'm back girls:p

and to address the "safety" issue on drive line angle, on a two inch drop Tone ,drive line angle is not very cruicial, Your only talking about 2 degree's which isnt going to affect the u joints to the extreme of failing,
Drive line angle is more cruicial on a two piece driveshaft or a extrememly long driveshaft to where the angle is multiplied twice over.

To give a short explanation of driveline angle , when you accellerate the tires rotate forward, thus causing the nose of the pinion to pivot upwards, and what you want to acheive is under accelleration a + - 1 degree angle with the tailshaft of the transmission.

The blocks that I sell usually have about a 2 degree angle in them , it never was mentioned since most cannot tell that small of a difference in blocks.

If someone runs into a driveline problem or u joint failure with a two inch block whether it has an angle to it or not, they more than likely had a problem before the drop;)

With the QC's its very critical, for one you have a two part driveshaft, plus it is run thru a carrier. And the drop on those is usually around 5-6 inches in the rear.


My deal is continously changing to bring you fellas a better product, such as the addition of the energy suspension sway bar bushings added to the RC kit, I try to listen to each one of you and make changes as I can.

I hope this helps to understand just a little better Tone, if not you are more than welcome to call sir:D or if anyone has a problem with any of other manufacturers products, and need help , call:)

So that McGaughys kit I put on is bad? or good? If its bad could you help me out? Do you think that my truck is safe with the kit already on it or should I??? Send me a PM with the info when you get a chance Tony! Or you could answer it on here...either way...BTW...how much is your lowering kit???:dontknow:
 
Hey bud, there is nothing wrong to me with any of the kits out there, they all work as they are designed to .
And the only reason I started making mine is so many came to me with problems with an X brand kit, and stating they had problems with after a certain mileage the front springs would start sagging an bounce like a fat baby on a mommas boob:p
So to you or anyone else that has another kit, unless you have a problem, stay with it:D there is not one reason to remove the kit you have unless you are unhappy:D the only thing I suggest is staying with the oem shocks , they seem to work the best.

but my kit is $500 free shipping for the rest of the day, after that I have to increase the price due to an increase inthe price of steel.
 
stinkers kit is MONEY!! i love it, he took everystep even before selling it to me to make sure it was what i wanted. you cant go wrong, and while ur at it hit up JMB for some QA1'S! that are well worth it also!
 

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Stinker said:
Hey bud, there is nothing wrong to me with any of the kits out there, they all work as they are designed to .
And the only reason I started making mine is so many came to me with problems with an X brand kit, and stating they had problems with after a certain mileage the front springs would start sagging an bounce like a fat baby on a mommas boob:p
So to you or anyone else that has another kit, unless you have a problem, stay with it:D there is not one reason to remove the kit you have unless you are unhappy:D the only thing I suggest is staying with the oem shocks , they seem to work the best.

but my kit is $500 free shipping for the rest of the day, after that I have to increase the price due to an increase inthe price of steel.

Thanks!
 
Stinker said:
Ok I'm back girls:p

and to address the "safety" issue on drive line angle, on a two inch drop Tone ,drive line angle is not very cruicial, Your only talking about 2 degree's which isnt going to affect the u joints to the extreme of failing,
Drive line angle is more cruicial on a two piece driveshaft or a extrememly long driveshaft to where the angle is multiplied twice over.

To give a short explanation of driveline angle , when you accellerate the tires rotate forward, thus causing the nose of the pinion to pivot upwards, and what you want to acheive is under accelleration a + - 1 degree angle with the tailshaft of the transmission.

The blocks that I sell usually have about a 2 degree angle in them , it never was mentioned since most cannot tell that small of a difference in blocks.

If someone runs into a driveline problem or u joint failure with a two inch block whether it has an angle to it or not, they more than likely had a problem before the drop;)

With the QC's its very critical, for one you have a two part driveshaft, plus it is run thru a carrier. And the drop on those is usually around 5-6 inches in the rear.


My deal is continously changing to bring you fellas a better product, such as the addition of the energy suspension sway bar bushings added to the RC kit, I try to listen to each one of you and make changes as I can.

I hope this helps to understand just a little better Tone, if not you are more than welcome to call sir:D or if anyone has a problem with any of other manufacturers products, and need help , call:)

thank you much brotha, your time is much appreciated.:)
 
I just bought mine yesterday and can't wait for it to get here. Tony was great on the phone and will let you all know when it's dropped. I also have a great sweeping curve I can't wait to charge.
 
hey i got a Ground force and i am happy with it. I will be getting Stretch a kit for his from Tony and we will see. Just remember it is your Truck. Not everyone's truck is the same.
 
Love my Git-R-Down lowering kit by Stinkman!!!!

lower11.jpg
 
I have Stinkers Get 'er Down Lowering kit and it rides real good. I'd still get new blocks, nothing against Tony just I'm loyal to one item - my truck. If something is superior or of better quality then that is what my truck shall have (if I can afford it) regardless of who the seller is, friend or "foe". I'll be buying some blocks from Kevan from "Site-X" and I'm hoping with Stinkers 10% stiffer springs and the QA1s on 10 each end that I should have one hell of a sexy looking excellent handling street truck.

One thing I found while taking mine for a 8 hour drive last week was that although it's A LOT better and looks A LOT[/COLOR] sexier and the ride is real awesome at the end of the day it will always be a truck. I laughed to myself while driving thinking, yup, it's still a truck but that is good. If I want a performance car that can handle I'll get one, but, I don't want one. I want my truck. You can't beat the looks and with 45 series tires that fill in those wells and give the truck the muscle looking tires it needs (ie: not ricer rubber bands), it can't be beat. Just need to work on the bottoming out problem with Tony and get Kevans blocks and I'm good suspension wise.


BatramHills1.jpg
 
All these B4 and After pictures are making me wanna trash the X-Met kit and run with the Git-R-Down kit... :congrats: Oustanding results..
 
lukedovichak said:
stinkers kit is MONEY!! i love it, he took everystep even before selling it to me to make sure it was what i wanted. you cant go wrong, and while ur at it hit up JMB for some QA1'S! that are well worth it also!


That is one killer lookin truck dude, well fk'n done!!!:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
thanks again for every bodys advice, tony is a great guy, took the time to explain to me the particulars of the product. thats hard to find these days, cant wait to drop my truck with his kit. ill be hittin him up soon. thanks fellas.:) :rock:
 
tone said:
thanks again for every bodys advice, tony is a great guy, took the time to explain to me the particulars of the product. thats hard to find these days, cant wait to drop my truck with his kit. ill be hittin him up soon. thanks fellas.:) :rock:

Cant beat Tony for a stinkin great deal...;)
 

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