QC Stalling

[jbsrt10]

So about every other time I drive my truck when I punch the throttle the motor starts sputtering an gets no power an now it has started stalling, it stalled at 70 mph and at 20 mph, but it doesn't do this everytime but more than not I have no idea what is causing this?.

 

[rottenronnie]

It could be a failed Throttle position Sensor.
Is the Check-Engine Light On?

When did it start doing it and did you make ANY changes just before this problem started?
Is there water in your fuel? Is the tank low?
Does it idle ok/normally?- Not faster or slower..
etc...

 

[jbsrt10]

Haven't really made any changes, check engine light is on, but the code is evap code, was doing doing when fuel was low around 1/4 tank but now it does with over half a tank, it idles good just when I get on the gas little harder than normal it does this

 

[rottenronnie]

Find out exactly what tripped the check engine light, fix that issue and go from there. I have no idea if you work on your truck or not. It might be best to take it to a dealer??

 

[jbsrt10]

Code is p0442 that is the only code showing would this make my engine stall an sputter all the time

 

[Jfireboy1]

Code is p0442 that is the only code showing would this make my engine stall an sputter all the time

No... The p0442 will not cause that. Common issue as I've been driving mine for a couple years now with that code as well. Its the vacuum canister on mine that causes that code. Check your throttle position sensor

 

[jbsrt10]

I took off the throttle position Sensor but can't tell if it's bad or not? Could it be fuel pump or full filter?

 

[rottenronnie]

No serviceable fuel filter to change.
Try replacing the Throttle Position Sensor and keep yours for a spare; they go bad from time to time and won't necessarily trip a check engine light.
They are a really important sensor in that they dictate both fuel and timing.

If you do replace it, disconnect BOTH battery cables from the battery and touch the cables briefly together so the ECU can't retain any information from the old TP sensor in memory.
The truck MAY idle a touch rough for a few seconds until the ECU figures out what planet it's on after touching the cables together as it will be starting from scratch gathering info from the sensors.

PS Touching the cables together is NOT the same as disconnecting the battery and/or all three ECU cables, standing on one foot while doing so with a stopwatch, etc, etc.
It works.

Good Luck.

 

[jbsrt10]

So I replaced the tps an drove the truck and it drove fine check engine light went off for a day an then today truck stalled at 35mph I started back up an it stared sputtering aging idk I gees I'll check fuel pressure

 

[jbsrt10]

I'm getting a code P0320 could the crank sensor be causin all my troubles?

 

[VPRPWRD]

I'm getting a code P0320 could the crank sensor be causin all my troubles?

Yes it could be.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I'm getting a code P0320 could the crank sensor be causin all my troubles?

Try crank sensor as they are still available. More often than not though lately it's the cam sensor and they are not available as of now

 

[6speedquadcab]

Why do we have all these sensors????? :bawling:

 

[VNDK8TR]

Sputter and stalling fix

Change throttle position sensor and crank sensor. They work hand in hand. Disconnect both positive and negative terminals and touch together for 30 seconds to clear old error codes. Disconnecting just negative will not clear codes for new sensors. Sensors are still available. Hope this helps.

 

[Kopack_05]

Change throttle position sensor and crank sensor. They work hand in hand. Disconnect both positive and negative terminals and touch together for 30 seconds to clear old error codes. Disconnecting just negative will not clear codes for new sensors. Sensors are still available. Hope this helps.

He most likely fixed that problem a couple of years ago.

 

[beastmode1]

I was also thinking of bad fuel probably water in that gas.

 

[beastmode1]

Normally it would throw up some codes but my guess is bad fuel.

 

[VNDK8TR]

I did it 5 6 months ago. I even ordered another of each to keep in stock. Since I replaced sensors I have not had one issue. It worked. There not expensive. Worth it to just do it. Easy to do. Will take 20 min. Crank sensor is on passengers side just inside by motor mount. You will need to lift front right of truck. Accessible only from bottom. Speed sensor is on throttle body. 2 screws and connector , done. Make sure to disconnect both positive and negative terminals before you start. When your done before connecting terminals touch them together for 30 sec. don't worry it will only release any remaining power. This will make sure that your error codes will be deleted with out a doubt. Hope this helps.

 

[NightRunnerRC]

Mine did something similar way back, ended up being a catalytic converter going bad. Back pressure made the engine bog.

 

[VNDK8TR]

The cats right from the manufacturer are made from some kind of a cardboard honeycomb form. They failed on me pretty much at 40 to 50,000 miles so anybody running them after that mileage should change them out or else your heating up your manifolds thus heating up your motor There are a few available now that are higher flow and cheaper than the manufacture. 400 per side average. You may be able to find it cheaper. And with this that I've just posted keep in mind my last post about sensors. I went through a lot of time, parts and money to learn that cheap fix. Hope this helps