seethrough
Member
Does anyone know if these heads are the same as what is stock on the Gen IV engines?
2003 - 2006 Gen III Viper V10 150 HP Performance Upgrade Kit - P5156137
- Thread starter BlackMamba50
- Start date
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
So about $10-12k for maybe 70 rwhp?
Ughhhhh.... What did I miss here?
Ughhhhh.... What did I miss here?
We'll find out for sure what kind of power once I get the parts and have them installed.
No one would ever say this is the most cost-effective way to get power out of these.
But we all know that you can nickel/dime yourself to death and get extremely minimal gains.
It's heads/cam or its forced induction...and with the exception of _very few_ (if we are being completely honest), the majority who go FI have their motors forged.
I'm hoping the results are a little closer to what the Striker heads yield, but I also have emissions-legality constraints, so a lumpy cam, catless mids, etc are out of the question.
My other goal is to not build a motor that makes so much power that I am replacing driveline parts on a consistent basis. I will take reliability, stock-like driveability, and an emissions-compliant package that makes less power. It costs more to do this, and you go slower than you could have if these things are not as important as one 1/4 mile pass for the record book.
We'll see.
No one would ever say this is the most cost-effective way to get power out of these.
But we all know that you can nickel/dime yourself to death and get extremely minimal gains.
It's heads/cam or its forced induction...and with the exception of _very few_ (if we are being completely honest), the majority who go FI have their motors forged.
I'm hoping the results are a little closer to what the Striker heads yield, but I also have emissions-legality constraints, so a lumpy cam, catless mids, etc are out of the question.
My other goal is to not build a motor that makes so much power that I am replacing driveline parts on a consistent basis. I will take reliability, stock-like driveability, and an emissions-compliant package that makes less power. It costs more to do this, and you go slower than you could have if these things are not as important as one 1/4 mile pass for the record book.
We'll see.
So about $10-12k for maybe 70 rwhp?
Ughhhhh.... What did I miss here?
With a 19% drivetrain loss he should still see 120+ to the wheels.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
I think it's really awesome you are taking the plunge! It's not a bad way to have emissions reliable performance for sure! I really hope it performs well, it just seems like money vs. hp is a little high. It WILL be one of a kind for a good while though.:rock:
And I agree with everything you just said. There is _no doubt_ the $$/HP ratio is high. That can't be questioned.
With all the vehicles I've built (most on my own, but as I've gotten older, I've splurged and farmed out some work), I have seen it all and tried lots of different combos. Where I am at in life, I will spend more for an emissions-legal, factory-reliable type ride. The same thing can be said for my Z06... you can certainly make the power I am, spending way less $$. But I've had this TT kit on the car for 7 years now, it sounds, idles and drives like a stocker, passes smog without anyone raising an eyebrow, gets 28mpg on the highway, and makes more power than can realistically be put to the ground anyway.
The way I look at it is, I spent $25k for a 6100 mile truck that was next to perfect and if I spend another $10+k, I have a 600+hp ride for $35k, when you can't go out and replicate these trucks (or have bought them brand new off the lot) with a sticker of under $47-50k...and those were 500hp. Granted, its still $35k no matter how I justify it.
I was going to spend this much on Striker heads... we just can't get them any longer for awhile.I will have it dyno'd before the shop does the work, so that we will get a fair understanding of the real gains. The 448rwhp is a STD correction factor #, b/c that's what the shop used (I didn't even realize this until I got home and studied the sheet closer). I would guess I am probably at 435 SAE now, and would be happy with 520-530rwhp SAE when its all done. That should still give me an easy mid-12 second capable truck, running on stock tires (2.0-2.1 60' time), granny shifting. Low-12s or better with a bonzai lanch on some slicks (that might also scatter the rear end, I don't know).
And I agree with everything you just said. There is _no doubt_ the $$/HP ratio is high. That can't be questioned.
With all the vehicles I've built (most on my own, but as I've gotten older, I've splurged and farmed out some work), I have seen it all and tried lots of different combos. Where I am at in life, I will spend more for an emissions-legal, factory-reliable type ride. The same thing can be said for my Z06... you can certainly make the power I am, spending way less $$. But I've had this TT kit on the car for 7 years now, it sounds, idles and drives like a stocker, passes smog without anyone raising an eyebrow, gets 28mpg on the highway, and makes more power than can realistically be put to the ground anyway.
The way I look at it is, I spent $25k for a 6100 mile truck that was next to perfect and if I spend another $10+k, I have a 600+hp ride for $35k, when you can't go out and replicate these trucks (or have bought them brand new off the lot) with a sticker of under $47-50k...and those were 500hp. Granted, its still $35k no matter how I justify it.
I will have it dyno'd before the shop does the work, so that we will get a fair understanding of the real gains. The 448rwhp is a STD correction factor #, b/c that's what the shop used (I didn't even realize this until I got home and studied the sheet closer). I would guess I am probably at 435 SAE now, and would be happy with 520-530rwhp SAE when its all done. That should still give me an easy mid-12 second capable truck, running on stock tires (2.0-2.1 60' time), granny shifting. Low-12s or better with a bonzai lanch on some slicks (that might also scatter the rear end, I don't know).
its nice to hear you speak so well, and very good points also, but to take care of the rear axle jsut cryo the spider gears, and you should be good, I am hoping to see you hit close to your goals or a little better myself.
I would consider, while you are there , even doing just a small cam , if nothing else to let the heads breath out better, not a pounder, jsut like the mopar cam we jsut installed, barely noticable, but lets it breath jsut a touch more
rock on man, cant wait to see your results
21stcenturymusclecar
New Member
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And I agree with everything you just said. There is _no doubt_ the $$/HP ratio is high. That can't be questioned.
With all the vehicles I've built (most on my own, but as I've gotten older, I've splurged and farmed out some work), I have seen it all and tried lots of different combos. Where I am at in life, I will spend more for an emissions-legal, factory-reliable type ride. The same thing can be said for my Z06... you can certainly make the power I am, spending way less $$. But I've had this TT kit on the car for 7 years now, it sounds, idles and drives like a stocker, passes smog without anyone raising an eyebrow, gets 28mpg on the highway, and makes more power than can realistically be put to the ground anyway.
The way I look at it is, I spent $25k for a 6100 mile truck that was next to perfect and if I spend another $10+k, I have a 600+hp ride for $35k, when you can't go out and replicate these trucks (or have bought them brand new off the lot) with a sticker of under $47-50k...and those were 500hp. Granted, its still $35k no matter how I justify it.
I will have it dyno'd before the shop does the work, so that we will get a fair understanding of the real gains. The 448rwhp is a STD correction factor #, b/c that's what the shop used (I didn't even realize this until I got home and studied the sheet closer). I would guess I am probably at 435 SAE now, and would be happy with 520-530rwhp SAE when its all done. That should still give me an easy mid-12 second capable truck, running on stock tires (2.0-2.1 60' time), granny shifting. Low-12s or better with a bonzai lanch on some slicks (that might also scatter the rear end, I don't know).
I am anxious to see how it comes out, we are about to do one with Lingenfelter heads, custom spec'd camshaft, headers, intake, exhaust
and custom tune.
J.P.
ramsrt711
Full Access Member
Any new updates?
still waiting on the parts. the headers should arrive this week, and the Mopar kit is on a truck in Dallas somewhere... hopefully to be delivered tomorrow or Tuesday.
But I missed my scheduled appointment with the installer, and I have a very busy February lined up. I am guessing it will be March before anything happens.
You guys will be the first to know when its done.
But I missed my scheduled appointment with the installer, and I have a very busy February lined up. I am guessing it will be March before anything happens.
You guys will be the first to know when its done.
Leatherface
New Member
I'm super stoked and excited too:elefant:... N/a is the path I want to take reliablity
and the confidence to drive cross country while passing everything excepta gas
station is what I'm looking for... anybody know if gen III blocks are the same bolt
pattern as the gen IV's? direct motor swap for the new mopar viper drag motor
package?!:drool: any info would be greatly appreciated thanks guys and good luck
on the build! :five:
and the confidence to drive cross country while passing everything excepta gas
station is what I'm looking for... anybody know if gen III blocks are the same bolt
pattern as the gen IV's? direct motor swap for the new mopar viper drag motor
package?!:drool: any info would be greatly appreciated thanks guys and good luck
on the build! :five:
Received the Mopar kit today! I am still waiting for the Belanger headers, but they should be coming soon. I packed up my extra OEM PCM and sent it back to Mopar for the reflash.
Here are some pics... heads and intake manifold
Here are some pics... heads and intake manifold
rare03srt10
Full Access Member
Intake manifold looks like it will be SOOOO much easier to remove when it comes time to changing wires and or coils lol. How bout some close up pix or the inside of the runners and intake/exhaust ports on the heads
I notice the ports are straight on like the strykers. The intake is Absolutely gorgeous. !!! What else is with the kit? Come on... Don't hold back!!! Lol
I do not have to send my heads (or anything, for that matter) back.
It does come with new rocker arms, pushrods, injectors, injector wiring harness, spark plugs, Gen IV valve covers, head gaskets, a couple of PCV hoses, fuel rails and fuel rail crossover, head bolts, intake bolts.
ramv10
Full Access Member
Does anyone know if the reflashed pcm will work with the auto.
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