Battery Relocation - Hesitant Start (Video)

Carlwalski

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Hi guys,


I'm coming to the end of the line and am pretty much stuck, I like to sort this shit out myself but when I can't, I post it here. I have a relocation kit (JMB) as do others. I had my auto sparky install it, seemed simple, in fast Bob's your Uncle. When I did the engine bay, my Red Top 34/78 Optima (800CCA) was taken out. When it was time to install it we tested it, 12.1V, no worries. We put it in and the truck started instantly. I then took it for a 15 minute drive, stopped the truck and then tried to start it again 10 minutes later - fail lol. I needed to jump it. I got it home and left it. The next morning I tried it and it started, just with some hesitation. From then on in, it starts but has always hesitated. I get the occasional "normal" start with no "slight pause" but this only seems to be when it's a cold start (no driving for 12+ hours). After driving or start ups it starts to hesitate like in the video. I know doing searches, other relocaiton guys said they had "slight hesitation", I'm not sure if it's like mine or not as bad, or worse??

I have had 2 auto sparky's check it, the battery dips down to 9.5/10V at both the front of the engine bay (fuse terminal/ground) and at the back. So it's not dropping between. The starter seems AOK and fine. The alternator is working perfectly, once started it's keep it at a constant 13.9/14V so it's charging 100%. The rear and front both read the same off crank (12.80-13V). All the grounds are 100% metal to metal and I cleaned the terminals with the special battery wire cleaner tools for faultess connection. I've had the battery tested at 2 shops. I have no idea what to do. :eek: I'm no mechanic but I've been told that hesitant starts like that over time will start to strain the poor starter and could possibly kill it, not sure how true this is but it don't sound too pretty. I'm actually considering putting the battery back at the front lol. Function beats looks every time in my books and if it means a battery in the front for instant smooth starts, so be it. Anyone have ideas? Guys with their batteries, do you hesitate like mine when cranking over? Do you see any drops in volts from front to back? I'm not blaming JMB for his kit, the kit should have nothing to do with it, it's a basic kit, thick cable, tray etc. I'm bloody stuck lol. I'm going to leave it on jack stands until I sort this out. Main question is, what would cause it to be so inconsistent? 70% starts are hesitant, 30% normal(ish) and it's hard to say when it chooses to do either.



Cheers,
Carl


 
best bet? put in back up front, have a nice cover made and be happy.

there is tons of things that can be going on,

the pos lead going to the rear could not be conducting well enough to keep the battery charged up.

you can try to run two grounds

get a yellow top battery

actually grind the area for the grounds

get a larger alternator

but all in all you are gonna have loss from front to back like that under cranking conditions whenever you extend the cable.
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
best bet? put in back up front, have a nice cover made and be happy.

there is tons of things that can be going on,

the pos lead going to the rear could not be conducting well enough to keep the battery charged up.

you can try to run two grounds

get a yellow top battery

actually grind the area for the grounds

get a larger alternator

but all in all you are gonna have loss from front to back like that under cranking conditions whenever you extend the cable.
Thanks Tony but that's why I'm a little hesitant (lol) to move it up front. 2 voltage metres say it's not dropping ANY volts. Without crank, the battery at the rear reads 12.80+ and up front with pos on fuse box and neg on ground, it reads exactly the same. Upon crank they both drop to just under 10. I thought that was low but apparently it's not. I may test the battery up front as the original cables are taped and tucked away nicely behind/above the wheel well so its no major untapping them and trying with the battery not in place. Yellow tops don't offer more crank, slightly less from memory (750CCA) but they do offer more reserve, which isn't useful to me, only for those with sounds etc. I'm not too fussed with it back in the front. The engine bay is super tidy and clutter free now that a battery won't look out of place with a Burrito warmer over it LOL. I just want to try all avenues first as the relocation kit wasn't cheap (shipping hurt) and what I've been through to get it working, I won't give up until it's a certainty. :D
 
05QCSRT10 said:
Just scratched this off the wish list:(
I wouldn't just yet mate, wait until others with relocation kits speak up. They might have instant starts. :)


JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
I know you have had things tested Carl but have you actually tried another battery? any battery?
Hi tony, I tried a new calcium style battery but it was only 500CCA and not fully charged, it made the truck react like it was flat LOL (not enough grunt). I haven't got any large 750-800CCA batteries to try and @ $700+ can't afford to buy one and see. All my mates run smaller CCA batteries.
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
anything 10 or below is considered bad
That's what I thought but the battery shop(s) seem to think the battery isn't at fault claiming that after carbon tests and crank tests it recovers fully, which it does. So they claim that they have done the required Optima standard tests and it passed so they can't send it back. It's weird, the battery is holding charge, green light float etc, sits nicely at around 12.80-13.20 sometimes. :confused:
 
The one in my Challenger is 550CCA for a 7.2L and is borderline OK for that, it got replaced around 3 months ago by a shop it was at, they got a cheap shit one and it's on the way out. I haven't had time to replace that one. Oh, this household is LOVING batteries right about now LMAO.......:mad: No. I haven't contacted Justin. Me and him haven't got the best history together. ;)
 
normally anytime i test one and under a load it drops to ten or below I replace it bud, now i have seen the optimas go bad and still register good.

to me a simple test is to charge the battery all night on say a 2 amp charge, try it in the morning, then thru out the day, if it starts dying during the day , you prob got a bad battery.

most folks that have the relocation kit, may have some slow starting at times, but most never have it actually die like the problems you are having.
 
CHECK ALL OF THE GROUNDS, EVERYWHERE. Replace the small self tapping screw for the rear ground with a larger diameter bolt/nut with copper washers. Check the ground strap on the t-stat housing, I see you had it all powdercoated. What you are describing is probably a ground problem, the fun part is tracking it down.
 
it can only be 1 of 3 things.

Defective battery, needs to be load tested.. The fact that it drops to 10v tells me its no good if there are no volt drops anywhere else.

Dont believe the hype with drycell batterys. They dont have anywhere near the life of reg batterys under normal conditions, Ive seen many dry cell batteries fail and drop cells.


Another thing that alot of people over look is grounds... On my other cars with the battery in the back I like to weld to a bolt to the frame and connect the cable to that stud. NOT drill a hole and then tighten with a bolt but WELDED.
I also like to use 0-1 guage cable. For negative.

I also recommend welding a bolt to the frame and running a ground cable from the engine to that bolt..

this is the sure fire way of not having battery issues.



Now, another Item that you should adress is heat soak... I know your running long tube headers, Is your starter protected from the extra heat?
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
normally anytime i test one and under a load it drops to ten or below I replace it bud, now i have seen the optimas go bad and still register good.

to me a simple test is to charge the battery all night on say a 2 amp charge, try it in the morning, then thru out the day, if it starts dying during the day , you prob got a bad battery.

most folks that have the relocation kit, may have some slow starting at times, but most never have it actually die like the problems you are having.
Thanks Tony, it has never dies since that first time and I'm pretty sure that if I kept holding the starter button it would have fired but I wads holding 3-4 seconds and it wasn't firing. Yup, we had it at the battery shop on charge for 24 hours (overnight) got it home, let it sit for 12 hours (it was hot) then put it in and cranked it. First time as OK, the rest were hesitant.
 
labontecsi said:
CHECK ALL OF THE GROUNDS, EVERYWHERE. Replace the small self tapping screw for the rear ground with a larger diameter bolt/nut with copper washers. Check the ground strap on the t-stat housing, I see you had it all powdercoated. What you are describing is probably a ground problem, the fun part is tracking it down.
The grounds are perfect, engine, chassis and battery. It's back to bare metal. :) Thanks for the input!
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
btw the hesitant start in your vid is normal
Normal for these trucks with batteries in the front or with relocated batteries? Mine never used to start like this so it's not normal to me. However, if this is "normal" for relocated batteries then I could perhaps let it slide if everyone else and their relocated batteries start like this. Does that extra second cranking hurt the starter motor? :dontknow:
 

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