I am hoping to get a good picture of the collectors of these headers installed in a QC. I am trying to figure out ahead of time where to add extra O2 bungs for left and right banks.
Thanks for any help.!!
Thanks for any help.!!
Billy Boat Headers
- Thread starter Kopack_05
- Start date
What do you mean extra bungs?
I have BB headers on my truck and I didn't have to do anything extra.
Here is a link to the "How to" I wrote. Maybe the answer you seek is contained there....
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f40/how-install-b-b-headers-61677/
I have BB headers on my truck and I didn't have to do anything extra.
Here is a link to the "How to" I wrote. Maybe the answer you seek is contained there....
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f40/how-install-b-b-headers-61677/
I think he wants to add an air/fuel meter or two. 
I don't have permissions to view that post. supporting members only. :dontknow:
I think he wants to add an air/fuel meter or two.
Yes sir
Chewbacca
Full Access Member
I may not be the best person to answer this, but I thought the only holes/bungs in the headers are for the O2 sensors before the cats. The bungs for an AFR gauge would go in the mids. Here are some pics of my catless mids from B&B...with the bung for gauge (drivers side).
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f7/what-could-61995/index9.html#post1266804
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f7/what-could-61995/index9.html#post1266804
Here is a complete writeup of how to install B&B headers on an SRT10.
Tools required:
Flat head screwdriver
1/2" ratchet with extensions
8mm socket
13mm socket
Oxygen sensor wrench
5/8" socket and wrench
Long-Nose pliers
Zip ties.
Sawzall (maybe)
B&B Long Tube headers.
Some considerations first. I bought my headers used. B&B headers do not use a single flange across the head to connect all the primary tubes. They use individual flanges for each primary tube. This is very annoying. Mine were slightly deformed from being removed off the original owners truck and then being on a shelf or whatever. I had to make studs to get them to fit after an hour of fighting with them to get the bolt holes to line up. This is also a good idea because the studs hold the gasket firmly in place. My headers came with aftermarket bolts as well so whatever you decide to use for hardware you will need in tools.
I painted them before install as they were all trippy colors and brown.
Jack up your truck, remove wheels and disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove wheel well liners.
Use zip-ties to tie wires out of the way while you are working.
I was completely taken by surprise that the exhaust manifold bolts came right out. I have never been able to remove exhaust manifold bolts so easily.
The bolts that connect to the downpipes would not come out. I used my plasma cutter to remove them. I understand the everyday garage will not have a plasma cutter. My bolts would have needed more time than i was willing to give them so off they came.
Also, unbolt the catback from the downpipes and remove the oxygen sensors.
Here is a picture of the studs i made for the heads 5/16 steel rod cut at 1.75"
You can see how nicely the studs hold the gasket.
Installed.
Heres what B&B headers with cats in the mid pipes with a Magnaflow cat back sounds like
http://youtu.be/iwbx3U_6KSU
Tools required:
Flat head screwdriver
1/2" ratchet with extensions
8mm socket
13mm socket
Oxygen sensor wrench
5/8" socket and wrench
Long-Nose pliers
Zip ties.
Sawzall (maybe)
B&B Long Tube headers.
Some considerations first. I bought my headers used. B&B headers do not use a single flange across the head to connect all the primary tubes. They use individual flanges for each primary tube. This is very annoying. Mine were slightly deformed from being removed off the original owners truck and then being on a shelf or whatever. I had to make studs to get them to fit after an hour of fighting with them to get the bolt holes to line up. This is also a good idea because the studs hold the gasket firmly in place. My headers came with aftermarket bolts as well so whatever you decide to use for hardware you will need in tools.
I painted them before install as they were all trippy colors and brown.
Jack up your truck, remove wheels and disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove wheel well liners.
Use zip-ties to tie wires out of the way while you are working.
I was completely taken by surprise that the exhaust manifold bolts came right out. I have never been able to remove exhaust manifold bolts so easily.
The bolts that connect to the downpipes would not come out. I used my plasma cutter to remove them. I understand the everyday garage will not have a plasma cutter. My bolts would have needed more time than i was willing to give them so off they came.
Also, unbolt the catback from the downpipes and remove the oxygen sensors.
Here is a picture of the studs i made for the heads 5/16 steel rod cut at 1.75"
You can see how nicely the studs hold the gasket.
Installed.
Heres what B&B headers with cats in the mid pipes with a Magnaflow cat back sounds like
http://youtu.be/iwbx3U_6KSU
First off you forgot the most important tool.... BEER... Lots and lots of BEER! Secondly, I doubt your headers were bent or deformed. Mine were brand new and none of the tubes or flanges aligned properly. Great headers, bitch to install.
oh really? I have heard from other members that their headers went right on.
Interesting.
My brand new B&B headers slipped in from the bottom really easily.
It was from that point on they were a total nightmare to install.
The twisted flange was particularly entertaining.
Once installed, they are a really nice header.
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I'm not about to deal with that so the mopars it is.
Like I mentioned in another post and realizing I may have been cursed by The Header Gods decades ago:
BUT I HAVE NEVER EVER HAD A SET OF HEADERS "JUST BOLT RIGHT IN" from ANY manufacturer, regardless of price.
Last edited:
rbabody
Full Access Member
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:dito:
With the bottom bolts converted to studs there is zero problems.
I don't know which header is better, but I do know that the BB headers don't need the steering column removed.
10-1=9
Full Access Member
That's some ingenuity right there. LOL
That sucks. I've been lucky I guess. I've been wanting the mopars for a longtime anyway. I already have the Borla cat back, now I just want those mopars with catless mids.
I had MOPAR's before the B&B's. The MOPAR's were far easier to install with the one piece flange, though you do have to take half the truck apart to get them in.
Both are very high quality....B&B has a deeper tone to the exhaust.
Both are very high quality....B&B has a deeper tone to the exhaust.
I had MOPAR's before the B&B's. The MOPAR's were far easier to install with the one piece flange, though you do have to take half the truck apart to get them in.
Both are very high quality....B&B has a deeper tone to the exhaust.
Must be that extra .5".
Must be that extra .5".
That's what she said.
Chewbacca,, so when you ordered those mids, did you request the extra O2 bung? So if the headers have a set of Bungs and the midpipes have 2 sets with an extra, I should be covered. So the first set of O2s go in the headers and the rear set of O2s goes in the far rear set of bungs in the midpipes. That would leave the front set of bungs in the midpipes for left and right bank wideband O2s. Or should the narrow bands go in the front bungs of the mids and the wides go in the headers?
Thanks for the write up Pete.
Neil
New Member
I'm finally going to try to get mine fitted this weekend - I'm in the same boat with the extra o2 bung needed, if I'm done before you I'll take a pic of where I put it.
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