Engine light, smoke, and fuel smell

TREKER

TREKER

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Took the 10 out tonight for the weekend. Started fine, drove okay, but noticed that it was Bogging a little bit and sounded like it was hesitating. I gave it a little more gas to see if it would clear up but the engine light came on.

It was popping slot too, more than normal with the power sticks. I pulled over and shut it down for a few mins. I needed to get home, which was just around the corner. Started it up and same thing. Turned into my street and light gray smoke started pouring out and smelling like fuel. It was still running but sounded like the fuel wasn't igniting. Smelled like it too.

Got in driveway and popped the hood. Nothing leaking, nothing smoking. Truck seemed weak on power too. I don't have a way to check the codes so maybe someone can tell me how to get it to show on the dash.

I e thrown a code from time to time but never had a problem like this. Actually had something similar happen a few months ago too. Took it into dealer and they said I had a bad gasket on the valve cover leaking oil onto the plug on cyl #1. They changed the plug and the gasket. Was fine for a bit then this happens.

Anyone have any ideas? Could a bad injector do this or a bad coil pack. If gray smoke that smells like fuel comes out, what can it be? Temps good, oil pressure good, everything running fine until this.

Towing it in morning to dealer. Just want some advice and some things to look and ask for when she goes in.

Thanks
 
Turn the ignition key to the on position, then off, then on, then off, then on and leave it there.... code should show up where the odometer is.

Let us know.
 
my guess....TPS. (throttle position sensor) hopefully,just a $50.00 fix.
 
LoveThisTruck said:
Turn the ignition key to the on position, then off, then on, then off, then on and leave it there.... code should show up where the odometer is.

Let us know.
Click to expand...

Code P0201 then is says done.
 
sounds like maybe a sticking injector, but just a guess from states away, but one you had the prob before, two, a leaking valve cover shouldnt really affect the plugs or wires unless it was saturated.
but you can move the injector to another spot, see if the problem moves, or like some have get you some sea foam and run thru the engine
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
sounds like maybe a sticking injector, but just a guess from states away, but one you had the prob before, two, a leaking valve cover shouldnt really affect the plugs or wires unless it was saturated.
but you can move the injector to another spot, see if the problem moves, or like some have get you some sea foam and run thru the engine
Click to expand...

Sea foam??? :confused: yes, have had this issue before. I think it's always been a injector problem but I am not sure. I don't know how to swap the injector myself. Is it an easy fix to replace the injector or the circuit?
 
TREKER said:
Sea foam??? :confused: yes, have had this issue before. I think it's always been a injector problem but I am not sure. I don't know how to swap the injector myself. Is it an easy fix to replace the injector or the circuit?
Click to expand...
its not a hard deal at all treker, if you look at the rail you will see three bolts holding it down, and also if you look there the wires go to each injector, you will see where they clip together,
now the injectors are held in with o rings

so what you would need to do first is pick the injector you want to remove, then I use a eyeglass small type screwdriver of sorts or something similar, an there is a u shaped wire clip that holds on the connector to the injector, you will see it wraps around the injector, what you need to do is pry one side out and back jsut a little, now this is important, take some small needled nose pliers or something and hold that side, then slowly pry the other side of the clip out an back, reason to hold one side is sometimes that clip will go flying off into no mans land.

nwo that you have the clip off, pull the connector off the injector, then remove the three bolts that hold the fuel rails down,
now you have to kinda grab both ends and rock back and forth and upward to remove the rail and the injectors will remain on the rail, pull on the injector you are replacing and it will pop out, now all you have to do is goin reverse, but before you install the injectors back into the intake, take some grease, vasoline or something similar, put around the oring, it dont take much , then jsut push down and they will pop back in sir,

if you need some pics I will try to put a few together for ya, let me know

but sea foam you can get locally at oriellys autozone etc, it goes thru the engine cleaning the entire system sir

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html
 
Thanks Tony. I thought I blew a cylinder or something the way it's smoking. A bad injector would cause all this? I'm gonna have it brought to dealer because I don't even have ability to repair it myself and don't have parts.
May call you tomorrow if that's ok.
 
more than welcome to sir, but it probably could, if it sticks in the open position it will be like a carb with the choke stuck, causing the plug to foul, and run a little rough, now if you can pull the plug on that cylinder you can check and see if its running black on that cylinder, that will tell ya if its rich on that cylinder
 
a quick thought, was your voltage fine?
had something similar happen on my 300zx alt went out, not enough power to push fuel or ignite it. just a thought.
 
joemags54 said:
How far are you Scott? Can you limp to my garage? Let's pull a plug. You should try the cleaner.
Click to expand...

Don't want to chance it Joe. But thank you very much for the offer. Having it towed within the hour to my shop. I'm not going to dealer as they suck.
I should know something later today I hope. I'll keep this updated as I find out.
 
joemags54 said:
How far are you Scott? Can you limp to my garage? Let's pull a plug. You should try the cleaner.
Click to expand...

Don't want to chance it Joe. But thank you very much for the offer. Having it towed within the hour to my shop. I'm not going to dealer as they suck.
I should know something later today I hope. I'll keep this updated as I find out.
 
I looked up the injector removal process in the 06 service manual. Three pages of instructions to remove the fuel rail and injectors. What I found interesting (or strange?) was part of the process included the disconnection of the MAP, TPS, coolant temp and idle air control connectors, as well as the injector connectors. The manual also called for removal of the air intake box and duct -- this one made me ask the question why. And to top it off the manual calls for the use of DRB III scan tool to re-pressurize the fuel system. I guess you can't simply turn the key to the on position and let the fuel pump re-pressurize the system?

Good luck with the fix and I hope the shop doesn't whack ya too bad.
 
FastRam said:
I looked up the injector removal process in the 06 service manual. Three pages of instructions to remove the fuel rail and injectors. What I found interesting (or strange?) was part of the process included the disconnection of the MAP, TPS, coolant temp and idle air control connectors, as well as the injector connectors. The manual also called for removal of the air intake box and duct -- this one made me ask the question why. And to top it off the manual calls for the use of DRB III scan tool to re-pressurize the fuel system. I guess you can't simply turn the key to the on position and let the fuel pump re-pressurize the system?

Good luck with the fix and I hope the shop doesn't whack ya too bad.
Click to expand...
None of that is necessary. And, yes, turning the key will re-pressurize the system.
 
SANTEEN said:
None of that is necessary. And, yes, turning the key will re-pressurize the system.
Click to expand...

That's what I figured. I wonder what the flat rate is for doing this job "by the book".
 
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