engine oil cooler lines

I see Chuck B has a kit available. I'll leave this post if anyone else is interested. I am still interested in a parts list though. My thought is to take it to the dealer and let them replace it with better parts instead of using same stock setup that is prone to leaking.

As far as replacing the oil cooler lines just a little clarification. Checked mine and it is seeping at the block, the crimped part. I am not an expert in fitting sizes and don't know crap about it. Can I have the oil cooler lines for dummies version?

Basically, what size lines, fittings, adapters, o-rings, etc. is needed to do this? In other words what do I need? Where is the best place to get it from? Also, any tips on removing the old and putting in the new would help. I see there are quick releases on the lines, any tricks to getting them off? Stuff like that. I realize this is something that is covered under warranty but there is no sense replacing crap with crap. I would rather do it the right way, that's all. Just need some better direction from the expertise that looks through these posts.

Thanks.
 
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A little more clarification to what I was asking for above. I just want to know what to buy and have used the pics posted earlier to help clarify what I was trying to ask for. I tried going to the Earls Plumbing site and I have no idea what I am looking at. So pretty much I am saying I am an idiot when it comes to these types of parts and need a parts list (shopping list). Hope this makes more sense this way. Sorry for being a moron but if you don't know you have to ask.

Fits1.jpgFits2.jpgFits3.jpg
 
SlvrSnake said:
A little more clarification to what I was asking for above. I just want to know what to buy and have used the pics posted earlier to help clarify what I was trying to ask for. I tried going to the Earls Plumbing site and I have no idea what I am looking at. So pretty much I am saying I am an idiot when it comes to these types of parts and need a parts list (shopping list). Hope this makes more sense this way. Sorry for being a moron but if you don't know you have to ask.

View attachment 22657View attachment 22658View attachment 22659
Click to expand...


I am not trying to be an ass here bo, but if you have never worked with braided lines and fittings, your best bet would be to pm ZX and ask him what he would charge to make you a set.
You actually should use special wrenches not to mar the surface, and they are or can be a royal pain in the ass to put together.
 
STINKER...GET 'ER DONE!

Just put the package together two options:

1. With additional cooler
2. Just replace existing oil cooler lines

I'm ready to buy...
 
LOLOl I am Prof:rock: Just need a couple weeks off, and they are comming up, leaving in a minute for Misssissppisisisi again, and probably circle back to the house to work for you guys for a couple weeks:D
 
Mississippi via Wadsworth will get you a free meal and a beer break!
 
SRTOilFitting.jpg


SRTANFitting.jpg


Ok, seems I still have a few fittings left over. The black fitting is the adaptor. The silver fitting is the factory Dodge piece. Here is the link to purchase the adaptor http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_72426_-1

Dinners on the grill so I'll make this quick :D The factory connector has a plastic cover. Simply pull the cover back and you'll see the "C" clip. This clip holds the rubber factory line. You can either pull the clip then disconnect the line or simply unscrew the adaptor from either the engine block and/or factory oil/coolant exchanger. I found it easier to disconnect the clip then unscrew the factory adapter. Install of the Aeromotive adapter is easier....coat O-ring with oil and then screw/tighten in place.

In terms of the braided lines you'll use standard AN10 connectors. You can chose between High Pressure fittings or standard fittings. I went with high pressure versions but dollar amounts between the two is significant. Standard fittings are more than capable of handling our oil pressures. Next choice is straight, 45 degree or 90 degree fittings. I went with 45 degree.

As Stinker pointed out there is a little you need to know about connecting the braided line to the AN fittings. Your supplier can show you quick how to and many will do it for you for very minimal charge if you so desire. Special AN tool is always better but it can be done with standard wrenches. Care must be taken not to mar the finish when using standard wrenches.

Got to run....starving and it smells so good. I'll check back in a few!
 
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sweet looking oil lines ---Stinker hurry up --give us a price for a qc kit
 
Thanks for the end fitting info!!! Perfect. AN fittings are great once you get the hang of them.

Chuck B said:
SRTOilFitting.jpg



Got to run....starving and it smells so good. I'll check back in a few!
Click to expand...
 
Ok...belly is full. Nothing like Texas style TriTip Brisket....hmmmm! Ok, where to find the AN fittings. For the adaptor just order it per my link. For the AN fittings take a look in your local yellow pages. Most speed shops cater to the Hot Rod crowd as they buy this stuff by the box full and will have full compliment of what you need. Another place, this is where I source my parts, is through builders. Circle track, off road etc any of the custom builders will have full supplies or at least tell you where to source them locally. Fortunately, one of my dealers is an off road buggy builder. His selection of AN fittings, bolts, weld brackets, pinion joints etc is to die for. Hope this helps.
 
went with 2 60 degree at the block & a straight & a 45 degree at the oil cooler. cleared the frame rail a bit better.
got all the stuff From Earl's plumbin. if time is not a factor mail order be good. plus they have some nice teachin vids to help out

ZCx
 
Thanks to both of you! Just placed my Earl's order with anplumbing.com - much better prices than Jegs or Summit, but I'll report back on their service after I get my stuff. I'll be back in town in a couple weeks, so it won't get touched before then.

Also, I hadn't looked at my stock lines since they were warrantied with factory new about 8k miles ago. Oozing to a drip again. So thank you again for the post which made me go look!!! Beers/tequila in the air! Cheers! :rock:
 
I was out tearing the truck apart getting ready to install my ROE and noticed that my lines are leaking at the crimps. I was thinking of how to install braided lines wondering what threads were in the block and cooler. Now that I know they are only -10 ORB (O-ring) fittings I am going to order up everything to do this tomorrow. Great install ZCx, very clean and professional. I like the line clamps, didnt even know there was something like that available. Any idea on line lengths? I have lots of -6 and -8 at home, but not any -10.
 
Someone needs to post a complete list of components with the sizes and lengths so that we can use that as a template...or have one of the suppliers come here and become a sponsor...then we can tell them what we want and they can supply the full component package...

Stinker...JMB...SLH...Mopar Performance...

Someone do this...
 
ordered 7 foot of Earl's Perform O Flex hose, just in case ya know. have 4 foot left. i think the lines could be a bit shorter. just went with how the lines liked to lay. went with #10 because the stock lines showed to be 1/2 i.d. parts i used are:
2) 806110 60 degree
1) 804610 45 degree
1) 800110 straight
7') 400100 #10 hose
1) 167013 13/16 hose seperator
4) 985010 o'ring fittin
Earl's Plumbing part numbers
 
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ZCx said:
ordered 7 foot of Earl's Perform O Flex hose, just in case ya know. have 4 foot left. i think the lines could be a bit shorter. just went with how the lines liked to lay. went with #10 because the stock lines showed to be 1/2 i.d. parts i used are:
2) 806110 60 degree
1) 804610 45 degree
1) 800110 straight
7') 400100 # hose
1) 167013 13/16 hose seperator
4) 985010 o'ring fittin
Click to expand...


Perfect!
 
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