factory amp

i haven't found sh*t and im pissed so i say screw this crap i will just wait and bit and get another amp and 2 12's
 
ViperPunk said:
i haven't found sh*t and im pissed so i say screw this crap i will just wait and bit and get another amp and 2 12's


I would do the same. Just so you don't have to worry about shit blowing up to.
 
ViperPunk said:
i haven't found sh*t and im pissed so i say screw this crap i will just wait and bit and get another amp and 2 12's

If you do, go Kicker L7s or CVXs... by far best woofers ive ever had and Ive had a ton of systems
 
I did too until I got my Kickers... ask terrible01 (kenny w/ the 240) he heard mine and told me it sounded great and I just have 1 12" sub right now
 
The factory sub and amp are garbage. Who puts a sub in a plastic enclosure? I built a custom tuned vented enclosure for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 that I had. Switched the amp out for a Fosgate Punch two channel running in mono. Now it feels like the truck is going to shake apart. Could never feel the factory sub at all.

-Muzzy
 
This is crazy because I'm going through the same exact problem. I don't have the extra money to get a new amp and woofer, just the woofer. I wish I could say I'm a stereo wizard, but I'm far from it. I actually like the stock setup too and I'm not that old, 27. I just don't want to eff something up and then spending more money. My friend says he can hook me up with a 12" Rockford Punch 2. How much would a reasonable amp go for?
 
ViperPunk I've been reading up this infinity amp and it looks to be the same for most of the dodge cars/trucks. My understanding from reading up on the amps it has to be either 2 ohm or 4 ohm. Even though its a piece of crap amp it shouldn't be 8 ohm. Being that it "should be" 2 or 4 ohm a 4 ohm speaker should be fine it. 4 ohm can go into a 4 ohm or 2 ohm amp. This seems like the safe way to go. I'm asking some buds about it and I'm gonna stop by car toys and dallas dodge to see if any might know, I doubt it.
 
Just so you know...you will not be able to hook up any aftermarket sub to the factory amp and vice versa. I want to say that the amp is a 4 Ohm amp but I cannot remember. However, I had attempted this endeavor once before...then I just bought an entire system, including: 2 10" Rockford Fosgate Subs, 2 Alpine Amps (I dunno, I'm stereo stupid!) and all the door speakers and head unit were replaced with Alpine.

Sounds way better and was the only way I could get the Stereo Gods to approve...;)
 
If the sub is like the door speakers than its 1 ohm....In fact I believe the whole Infinity system in this truck is 1 ohm stable!
I replaced the sub and amp....along with all the door and dash speakers...
If you replace just one or the other expect to get some weird noises and possible smoke! If you do replace only the sub and amp you will be disappointed with the rest of the speakers and the weak volume...I then you will want to do a complete upgrade...My stereo now is as loud as the max factory volume was on only volume 16....it goes up to 35 and I have yet to get it past 26 because it's so damn loud!
 
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You don’t have to spend tons of money upgrading your sub and amp. The sub I would buy new, but you can get pretty good deals from places like sonicelectronix.com and onlinecarstereo.com. You should be able to get a decent sub for under $100. Something better than factory (Pioneer TS-W257D4 is going for $59 from sonicelectronix and has good reviews). The amp is where you don’t want to skimp on quality. However, you can find used ones going for a pretty good price. I got an Infinity Kappa series amp that went for $500 new for $50 from a guy I work with. You can get an amp install kit for $50-$60 which will include all the wiring you need plus fuse holder and terminals. You might also need to pick up a positive battery clamp to connected the power to the battery. I got a pretty platinum coated one for $20 that replaced the factory positive terminal and accepts one 4 gauge and two 8 gauge cables. Lastly, you may need to purchase a line level converter if the amp you have doesn’t accept high level inputs. Line level converters will run you about another $20 (you only need one).

If you have any carpentry skills, you can build your sub enclosure to suit your needs out of MDF for around $50 in materials. The sub will come with specs on the optimum enclosure size for the sub you purchase. There is a enclosure building utility on http://www.the12volt.com/ . This site is also your best reference for anything mobile electronics related. Spend some time reading and you should have everything you need.

Sub - $59
Amp - $50 (used)
Install kit - < $50
Sub enclosure - < $50
Misc accessories - $40

Total = Roughly $250 max.

-Muzzy
 
The problem you have with adapting an aftermarket amp is that you have to have a place to plug the RCA cables in....and for that you have to use those crappy RCA convertors which tap into your left and right speaker supply and they produce very little Volts which in turn gives crappy overall sound to the sub....

also most 10's use about the same airspace that our factory sub-box provides....I threw a JL audio w3 10" right into the box and it sounds awesome!

If you are like me and really into music and sound quality, bottom line is you will not be impressed by just adding a sub and amp! If all you are happy with the stock system and are looking for just a little more bass then it will suit you well!
Good luck....let us know how it turns out!
 
i have decided to wait a little bit and do a complete upgrade, but in the mean time i did buy a b&m shifter from dom so all is good:D
 
ViperPunk said:
i have decided to wait a little bit and do a complete upgrade, but in the mean time i did buy a b&m shifter from dom so all is good:D
Good call.....you'll be much happier that way...trust me I went through 3 different styles and in the end the complete swap out was the best...
In all it cost around $300 2 JL amps, JL Sub, Infinity Kappa 6x9's and 3.5" on the dash....had the JL sub and Kenwood HU...got the amps on ebay for cheap...
You'll be very happy with the result and 5_0 Bait was a great help!!:rock: :rock: :rock:
 
kickinassrt-10 said:
The problem you have with adapting an aftermarket amp is that you have to have a place to plug the RCA cables in....and for that you have to use those crappy RCA convertors which tap into your left and right speaker supply and they produce very little Volts which in turn gives crappy overall sound to the sub....

also most 10's use about the same airspace that our factory sub-box provides....I threw a JL audio w3 10" right into the box and it sounds awesome!

If you are like me and really into music and sound quality, bottom line is you will not be impressed by just adding a sub and amp! If all you are happy with the stock system and are looking for just a little more bass then it will suit you well!
Good luck....let us know how it turns out!
:dito:
 
kickinassrt-10 said:
The problem you have with adapting an aftermarket amp is that you have to have a place to plug the RCA cables in....and for that you have to use those crappy RCA convertors which tap into your left and right speaker supply and they produce very little Volts which in turn gives crappy overall sound to the sub....

also most 10's use about the same airspace that our factory sub-box provides....I threw a JL audio w3 10" right into the box and it sounds awesome!

If you are like me and really into music and sound quality, bottom line is you will not be impressed by just adding a sub and amp! If all you are happy with the stock system and are looking for just a little more bass then it will suit you well!
Good luck....let us know how it turns out!
Roger. You threw the JL Audio sub into the factory sub box? You just gave me a good idea. I have a JL Audio stealth box with a 10w3v3-4 in it, underthe right rear seat. Now, I'm thinking of putting a 10w3v3 sub in the factory box. This way I can run dual subs. Can I run it off the the same bridged ouput that I'm running the stealth box off of?
 
SANTEEN said:
Roger. You threw the JL Audio sub into the factory sub box? You just gave me a good idea. I have a JL Audio stealth box with a 10w3v3-4 in it, underthe right rear seat. Now, I'm thinking of putting a 10w3v3 sub in the factory box. This way I can run dual subs. Can I run it off the the same bridged ouput that I'm running the stealth box off of?
Yea I got a jl sub in the factory box. I had to trim it just a tad to fit the 10 but it took 5 minutes to do.
As far as the amp if it's 500+ watts you can do both subs. Refer to jl audio page and they will give you a wiring diagram how to get the correct ohms out of 2 subs. Pretty straight forward. Next time we do the track, you can hear how mine sounds. Thinking about going Friday down there!
 
Muzzy said:
The factory sub and amp are garbage. Who puts a sub in a plastic enclosure? I built a custom tuned vented enclosure for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 that I had. Switched the amp out for a Fosgate Punch two channel running in mono. Now it feels like the truck is going to shake apart. Could never feel the factory sub at all.
-Muzzy
agreed.... the factory plastic enclosure kills quality sounding bass.... :(
 
kickinassrt-10 said:
Yea I got a jl sub in the factory box. I had to trim it just a tad to fit the 10 but it took 5 minutes to do.
As far as the amp if it's 500+ watts you can do both subs. Refer to jl audio page and they will give you a wiring diagram how to get the correct ohms out of 2 subs. Pretty straight forward. Next time we do the track, you can hear how mine sounds. Thinking about going Friday down there!
I'm down for the track. Won't do the DR's at the track until I get my line lock(STINKER!!!!!!!!!). So, I'll go out there on street tires. I'm sure you wont mind.:D :D Let me know.
 

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