How much $$ to get 700 RWHP?

What year is your truck?

I don't have a truck, just trying to figure out what kinds of power has been put through the stock SRT truck motor forced induction-wise as compared to the stock SRT Vipers which I know what has been put through those.

I was also not sure about how much more power is lost through the auto as compared to the 6-speed.

I also was not sure if the truck motor was less capable than the regular SRT-10 Viper motor in the 2003-2006 Vipers since people were saying 600 RWHP max on the stock motor. That's why I asked the questions I did.

I did see the SRT truck with built motor and GT4788 put down big power back a few years.

Just trying to figure out the norm for forced induction on a stock motor, that's all.
 
just trying to figure out what kinds of power has been put through the stock SRT truck motor forced induction-wise as compared to the stock SRT Vipers which I know what has been put through those.

I also was not sure if the truck motor was less capable than the regular SRT-10 Viper motor in the 2003-2006 Vipers since people were saying 600 RWHP max on the stock motor. That's why I asked the questions I did.

The trucks and the cars are exactly the same in terms of potential. Many here have S/C engines making 650ish rwhp. Several others have H/C only builds and they build about 575 rwhp.

The consensus seems to be that a well tuned HC build sacrifices the least amount of driveability/reliability.
 
The trucks and the cars are exactly the same in terms of potential. Many here have S/C engines making 650ish rwhp. Several others have H/C only builds and they build about 575 rwhp.

The consensus seems to be that a well tuned HC build sacrifices the least amount of driveability/reliability.

True.

To answer the question of RC vs. QC, it depends on parts used. Ronnie and I are within 2HP. His QC has a different cam than my RC, but both builds are safe and below 600RWHP. If you are going with FI, you need to build the motor to have it last. You can bet you are on borrowed time on a stock bottom end. A custom tune is a must.....don't rely on a basic canned tune. There are very good viper engine tuners on these sites and it pays to use the best.:)
 
reading this is either gonna be costly, scary, or i'm just gonna run the truck over with the deuce! I'm running a conservative 700rwhp on the car in in no way near the chance for destruction. The new V10 seems its gonna be a
 
reading this is either gonna be costly, scary, or i'm just gonna run the truck over with the deuce! I'm running a conservative 700rwhp on the car in in no way near the chance for destruction. The new V10 seems its gonna be a expensive platform to make power!
 
There is a way to get a 700+hp truck without spending a fortune.....just takes patience......wait for someone to sell the truck they spent $30K+ to make 700hp....modded trucks bring very little more than a similiar stock truck...been some really good deals come across this forum.....
 
I think more like $35K to get there reliably. Engine build, some means of a power adder, twin disc clutch and flywheel, transmission upgrades, rear axle upgrades, then a extra couple sets of tires.

Or just buy one of the nicest trucks on the forum - Ram From Hells.
 
The new V10 seems its gonna be a expensive platform to make power!

My experience is that horsepower costs money, regardless of the platform. The more horsepower you build, the more expensive it gets. I've got a buddy who has an 800 rwhp corvette. It costs every bit as much per horsepower as our 10's. I have another buddy who's building a hot rod Sierra. His costs to get 500-600 rwhp exceed mine, but we would spend about the same for 600-700.
 
You will need about 12# boost to get to 700 hp and a good breather to do it with pump gas. The Roe can get there, but, makes to much heat and will have to back out to much timing to be practical.the air ends up at engine temp at the ports. the cooling system actually cools the compressed air down to 170* !lots of under hood heat! The paxton can get you there,it has an intercooler, by changing pulleys but then you have to deal with belt slippage. so again not effective power for a street driver. the answer now is the pro charger with a cogged belt but, best forge it ! the stock bottom end won't handle it for long. Roe racing or JMB can do turbos but ask Dom what a single turbo cost!! And how it worked out for him! but again, For about $30,000 and alot of self done assembly , small Twin turbos would be the sh-t !! Intercooled with a cold air intake. Properly assembled would be around 900 hp.at 12 # . Ramfromhell hit over 900 with 14# and meth. with a procharger setup.
 
You will need about 12# boost to get to 700 hp and a good breather to do it with pump gas. The Roe can get there, but, makes to much heat and will have to back out to much timing to be practical.the air ends up at engine temp at the ports. the cooling system actually cools the compressed air down to 170* !lots of under hood heat! The paxton can get you there,it has an intercooler, by changing pulleys but then you have to deal with belt slippage. so again not effective power for a street driver. the answer now is the pro charger with a cogged belt but, best forge it ! the stock bottom end won't handle it for long. Roe racing or JMB can do turbos but ask Dom what a single turbo cost!! And how it worked out for him! but again, For about $30,000 and alot of self done assembly , small Twin turbos would be the sh-t !! Intercooled with a cold air intake. Properly assembled would be around 900 hp.at 12 # . Ramfromhell hit over 900 with 14# and meth. with a procharger setup.
worked out great for him!!!but hes a rich bitch hahahahah
 
My experience is that horsepower costs money, regardless of the platform. The more horsepower you build, the more expensive it gets. I've got a buddy who has an 800 rwhp corvette. It costs every bit as much per horsepower as our 10's. I have another buddy who's building a hot rod Sierra. His costs to get 500-600 rwhp exceed mine, but we would spend about the same for 600-700.


I'm making 706 rwhp on a very conservative tune on my supra and its a stock block. Not knocking the v10 but i'm used to the supra platform for high hp and 1k rwhp is fairly cheap and reliable even on a stock block.
 
I'm making 706 rwhp on a very conservative tune on my supra and its a stock block. Not knocking the v10 but i'm used to the supra platform for high hp and 1k rwhp is fairly cheap and reliable even on a stock block.

Hypothetical question: I don't own a Supra, but am going to buy one and build a 700 rwhp car. How much will I need to spend? Please include maintenance costs as I noticed you change the oil every 500-700 miles in yours.
 
You will need about 12# boost to get to 700 hp and a good breather to do it with pump gas. The Roe can get there, but, makes to much heat and will have to back out to much timing to be practical.the air ends up at engine temp at the ports. the cooling system actually cools the compressed air down to 170* !lots of under hood heat! The paxton can get you there,it has an intercooler, by changing pulleys but then you have to deal with belt slippage. so again not effective power for a street driver. the answer now is the pro charger with a cogged belt but, best forge it ! the stock bottom end won't handle it for long. Roe racing or JMB can do turbos but ask Dom what a single turbo cost!! And how it worked out for him! but again, For about $30,000 and alot of self done assembly , small Twin turbos would be the sh-t !! Intercooled with a cold air intake. Properly assembled would be around 900 hp.at 12 # . Ramfromhell hit over 900 with 14# and meth. with a procharger setup.

That's great information! Thank you!

What is the general consensus here regarding how much power it takes to spin the supercharger make 650 RWHP for the Roe, Paxton and Procharger?

Just curious, Thanks!
 
You will need about 12# boost to get to 700 hp and a good breather to do it with pump gas. The Roe can get there, but, makes to much heat and will have to back out to much timing to be practical.the air ends up at engine temp at the ports. the cooling system actually cools the compressed air down to 170* !lots of under hood heat! The paxton can get you there,it has an intercooler, by changing pulleys but then you have to deal with belt slippage. so again not effective power for a street driver. the answer now is the pro charger with a cogged belt but, best forge it ! the stock bottom end won't handle it for long. Roe racing or JMB can do turbos but ask Dom what a single turbo cost!! And how it worked out for him! but again, For about $30,000 and alot of self done assembly , small Twin turbos would be the sh-t !! Intercooled with a cold air intake. Properly assembled would be around 900 hp.at 12 # . Ramfromhell hit over 900 with 14# and meth. with a procharger setup.

I would completely disagree with 12psi boost needed to make 700 RWHP!!!! I'm almost there at 645 RWHP@8psi boost and if my setup was in an RC it would be really really close to the 700 there's lots more to be had in my tune if I wanted to push it, my A/F @WOT is only at. 11.3, I will be in the mid 7's. Next year with 8 psi boost!
 
The boost # is regardless, ive seen an 8# paxton truck make 701whp, a 10# Procharger make 800whp, and a 7# JMB single turbo on a piston/rod only motor make 700whp+ all on the same dyno with very similar engines and RC's. I think it comes down to your definititon of reliability (is it 20K miles no issues, 120K miles no issues??), who is tuning it, driving style, and what power adder. 700whp on N20 or Roe only, probably not going to be reliable. 700whp on 8psi centrifugal blower or turbo setup with a good safe tune, I think could last 50K+ miles or more. I made 640whp/790WTQ for 4+ years and 50K miles on N20 only and ran alot of bottles through it without ever having an issue, others have not been so fortunate.

The engine is identical to the viper car except exhaust manifolds and thermostat housing, the internals are all the same. The vipers have just as good/bad of a record of blowing up.

Justin
 
my old truck if for sale in Texas, made 575 to the tires with a ROE,cam and hardened push rods.
 
Thanks Justin , you just confirmed I'm not far away, I have a few ideas that will for sure gain me 60 RWHP, but I think I can get 100 more from where I'm at right now, and I'm not going to increase the boost, just cool down the intake air a lot more then it is now!, even though my Paxton's intake temps are 50F cooler then the ROE was and no detonation,which I had issues with using the ROE ( which was caused from high boost and HEAT)
 
What do people spend on a RAM SRT Truck to get around the 700 RWHP mark through a manual transmission,
Id like to see regular cab trucks with that much power cut a 60' and get some good time slips. No fancy dyno charts.:rock:

The quad cabs on here are kicking butt.
 

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