Is this a rod bearing?

That's probably normal. On any engine that is stopped (especially a 10 cylinder) some of the valves are open at any given position. You got to turn it over and watch The valvetrain on each individual cylinder as it goes through the four strokes. Jump the selonoid on the starter to the positve batt term or use a socket on the front crank bolt.
 
are any of the pulleys wobbling?

I havent looked at any of my pulleys in detail. I'll check that out, and pull of the other valve cover and see if I see anything broken and ill try to turn this thing over manually (sounds like fun, ha!)
 
You need to visually inspect each valve spring. Like others said, the cam has some valves opening and those rocker arms will be tight. Rocker arm bearings do go out but valve springs are way more common.
Go ahead and snatch that other cover off bud.
 
Just an update on this, the pan was dropped and im being told rod bearing failing. So the motor has to be rebuilt. Dealer told me 15k plus tax.

I spoke with Todd at Arrow Racing and he said 9 to 12k for a rebuild depending on how severe bearing issue is after they of course inspect it. Im going to get it back from the dealer for the time being.
 
Just an update on this, the pan was dropped and im being told rod bearing failing. So the motor has to be rebuilt. Dealer told me 15k plus tax.

I spoke with Todd at Arrow Racing and he said 9 to 12k for a rebuild depending on how severe bearing issue is after they of course inspect it. Im going to get it back from the dealer for the time being.

I'd be happy to help you with your rebuild bud. Forged or stock internals either way. I just hope their diagnosis is correct. :(
 
Just listened to video again and that's not a rod bearing or lower end even. The rhythm at idle is too fast for a rod. I still think broke pushrod,spring, or something else. If it's coming back home I suggest looking hard under both covers including removing all rockers (easy) and checking pushrods and springs.
Just my .02:dontknow:
 
Just an update on this, the pan was dropped and im being told rod bearing failing. So the motor has to be rebuilt. Dealer told me 15k plus tax.

I spoke with Todd at Arrow Racing and he said 9 to 12k for a rebuild depending on how severe bearing issue is after they of course inspect it. Im going to get it back from the dealer for the time being.

Arrow is 1 of the best builders around. Rebuild with forged rods and pistons.
 
Just listened to video again and that's not a rod bearing or lower end even. The rhythm at idle is too fast for a rod. I still think broke pushrod,spring, or something else. If it's coming back home I suggest looking hard under both covers including removing all rockers (easy) and checking pushrods and springs.
Just my .02:dontknow:

This is absolutely the truth! The repetition of the sound is far too fast for it to be a rod bearing.
 
Just listened to video again and that's not a rod bearing or lower end even. The rhythm at idle is too fast for a rod. I still think broke pushrod,spring, or something else. If it's coming back home I suggest looking hard under both covers including removing all rockers (easy) and checking pushrods and springs.
Just my .02:dontknow:

Im not that mechanically inclined. I'll tear a PC apart and put it back together or even build one from scratch but I dont have that ability with engines. Just not my forte, and I thought I'd give the dealer a shot to at least tell me what is wrong. So after 1.5 weeks they tell me the bearings are seized and I need a new short block and it will be 15k plus tax.
 
Im not that mechanically inclined. I'll tear a PC apart and put it back together or even build one from scratch but I dont have that ability with engines. Just not my forte, and I thought I'd give the dealer a shot to at least tell me what is wrong. So after 1.5 weeks they tell me the bearings are seized and I need a new short block and it will be 15k plus tax.

Do you know how close you are to the other Georgia members? There are a few there that could help you through this ordeal.
 
You have my word it's easy to remove valve covers and just as easy to remove rockers. Only bolts and only 2 size sockets needed.
 
You have my word it's easy to remove valve covers and just as easy to remove rockers. Only bolts and only 2 size sockets needed.

I did pull the valve covers everything looked normal. It didnt start making this noise until my dad dropped it off some rocks when he was putting my new wheels on (prior set was stolen with truck left on blocks).

It was fine before then, I'd start it like once a week and let it idle not a problem. I even started it 6 days before it was dropped and it was fine. After the drop the noise and this is where I am.

So cliff notes, the truck has not been moved (driven) since april when the wheels were stolen. It iwas started once a week just to run, new wheels put on early june, truck is dropped of the rocks less then 3 inches off the ground. Start it up and it is tapping. I pulled the valve covers and see nothing out of place. Tow it to the dealer who states the bearings are seized.
 
I did pull the valve covers everything looked normal. It didnt start making this noise until my dad dropped it off some rocks when he was putting my new wheels on (prior set was stolen with truck left on blocks).

It was fine before then, I'd start it like once a week and let it idle not a problem. I even started it 6 days before it was dropped and it was fine. After the drop the noise and this is where I am.

So cliff notes, the truck has not been moved (driven) since april when the wheels were stolen. It iwas started once a week just to run, new wheels put on early june, truck is dropped of the rocks less then 3 inches off the ground. Start it up and it is tapping. I pulled the valve covers and see nothing out of place. Tow it to the dealer who states the bearings are seized.

Did they use the term seized? That right there makes me think they have no idea what they're talking about.
 
Shoot us pics of all springs. Then remove rockers and pushrods. Roll pushrods on a glass table and look for a bent one. Check all rockers while off for seized bearings or breakage. Its top end!
 
Valve train IMHO...! Valve spring or bent push rod...!
 
Truck is back home, I went over the paperwork. Tech puts one line and states "engine is locked up".

I asked the service adviser to elaborate and he advised they lowered the oil pan and saw metal shavings on bearing 3 and 5. You guys tell me if that is possible.

The also replaced my air bag which shocked me as I thought the parts for that thing was on back order for life, at least they didnt break the dash.

So I need to get a second opinion.
 
Truck is back home, I went over the paperwork. Tech puts one line and states "engine is locked up".

I asked the service adviser to elaborate and he advised they lowered the oil pan and saw metal shavings on bearing 3 and 5. You guys tell me if that is possible.

The also replaced my air bag which shocked me as I thought the parts for that thing was on back order for life, at least they didnt break the dash.

So I need to get a second opinion.

No they would have had to left engine, remove mains and see worn mains. Metal shavings aren't going to choose to stay next to the mains that are supposedly bad. Doesn't work like that! Someone there wants your engine
 
Normally you would let the oil run thru a net or something to catch the metal shavings. Color of shavings is quite important to estimate what is defect....

If they just droped the pan there will be still shaving in the oil piick up tube filter and probably in the oil filter.
(If it really has a bearing problem, which i doubt)
 
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Def not a rod bearing. Rods typically dont knock under load. That stays constant. I would almost bet the farm you have a stuck lifter. Every once in a blue moon my engine sounds just like that. If i shut it off and restart i can hear the noise go away as i build oil pressure.
 

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