Jtsvp coils and wires

WOW.... that was a short thread
 
So for someone who has never taken the intake manifold off, how long would yall say it would take me to take the intake manifold off, swap wires, plugs and coils, and reinstall the intake manifold?

VENM505
 
Nope. A 1/4 ratchet with extension and the right size torx bit. I think it's a t 20 or 25. I forgot. And go to autozone and get the tool to disconnect the fuel line. It's like 9 bucks.
 
SRT2SLOW said:
Nope. A 1/4 ratchet with extension and the right size torx bit. I think it's a t 20 or 25. I forgot. And go to autozone and get the tool to disconnect the fuel line. It's like 9 bucks.
Click to expand...
Ok sounds great. Thanks man

VENM505
 
COol cant wait to install mine! I'm glad I went with the Demon coils and not aftermarket from rockauto.
 
T30 torx bit, and a few of the rear ones are a PITA, I mad a tool that made them easier but I changed all the nasty OE bolts for nice hex SS ones.
 
hawk02 said:
T30 torx bit, and a few of the rear ones are a PITA, I mad a tool that made them easier but I changed all the nasty OE bolts for nice hex SS ones.
Click to expand...


That is a good idea! I'll do that too when I install my coils.

Lowes seems to have decent hardware. I think there is a good nut and bolt place nearby too actually.
 
I'm just not a fan of stainless steel bolts cause the threads are so soft and they strip out really easy. If you accidentally tighten them just a little to much then you can forget ever getting them back out. Grade 8 yellow zinc wont rust and are some of the strongest threads available. Just my .2 cents

VENM505
 
Viper83101 said:
I'm just not a fan of stainless steel bolts cause the threads are so soft and they strip out really easy. If you accidentally tighten them just a little to much then you can forget ever getting them back out. Grade 8 yellow zinc wont rust and are some of the strongest threads available. Just my .2 cents

VENM505
Click to expand...

With an inital TQ of 1nm [ 10 IN LBS -- that's INCH lbs ] and a final TQ of 11nm [ 95 in lbs -- that's INCH lbs ] you have ZERO chance of breaking a Stainless bolt, or any bolt for that matter.

You must however use anti-seize on the threads because stainless bolts into aluminum heads [ aluminum anything ] require that, lest you create some big problems down the line.

This will take you more than an hour, most likely an afternoon.

--CC
 
CaptnCrash said:
With an inital TQ of 1nm [ 10 IN LBS -- that's INCH lbs ] and a final TQ of 11nm [ 95 in lbs -- that's INCH lbs ] you have ZERO chance of breaking a Stainless bolt, or any bolt for that matter.

You must however use anti-seize on the threads because stainless bolts into aluminum heads [ aluminum anything ] require that, lest you create some big problems down the line.

This will take you more than an hour, most likely an afternoon.

--CC
Click to expand...
I wasnt saying that you would break the bolts. I am saying that stainless steel bolts are very easy to accidentally overtighten causing the threads to flatten out in whatever it is they are going into. I understand that its not an extreme amount of pressure but there are some of the bolts as I understand it that you cant get a torque wrench on and I was just saying that I wouldnt want to take the chance because I have actually seen it done way to many time on different applications. You do make some good points and im not arguing with you at all...just saying I would feel more comfortable with grade 8 bolts and if your looking for the visual side of it then can always get some chromed coated bolts.

VENM505
 
On this same vein, does anyone have the ARP part number for 12 point stainless intake manifold bolts for the V10 ?

TIA
--CC
 
Viper83101 said:
I wasnt saying that you would break the bolts. I am saying that stainless steel bolts are very easy to accidentally overtighten causing the threads to flatten out in whatever it is they are going into. I understand that its not an extreme amount of pressure but there are some of the bolts as I understand it that you cant get a torque wrench on and I was just saying that I wouldnt want to take the chance because I have actually seen it done way to many time on different applications. You do make some good points and im not arguing with you at all...just saying I would feel more comfortable with grade 8 bolts and if your looking for the visual side of it then can always get some chromed coated bolts.

VENM505
Click to expand...

All bolts can / must be torqued. They do it at the factory, so can you. All bolts must be torqued in this application.

I seriously doubt that a stainless bolt is going to deform when over torquing it into the much softer aluminum, the threads in the head will deform first.. Your contention is probably correct when talking about fastening steel parts.

Please keep in mind that 95 IN LBS is 2 fingers on a 1/4" drive short handled tq wrench. You will never accidentally over torque a bolt if you use the proper torque wrench. :chain:

--CC
 
understood.....


images
 
CaptnCrash said:
All bolts can / must be torqued. They do it at the factory, so can you. All bolts must be torqued in this application.

I seriously doubt that a stainless bolt is going to deform when over torquing it into the much softer aluminum, the threads in the head will deform first.. Your contention is probably correct when talking about fastening steel parts.

Please keep in mind that 95 IN LBS is 2 fingers on a 1/4" drive short handled tq wrench. You will never accidentally over torque a bolt if you use the proper torque wrench. :chain:

--CC
Click to expand...
Yea very good points. Delay my last

VENM505
 
Do I have to disconnect the fuel line to move the intake? Or can I just lay it out of the way?
 
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