Manual transmission fluid change

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make sure the vehicle is level and allowing the lubricant to settle
for a minute before checking. This will ensure an
accurate check and avoid an underfill or overfill condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. This will
cause noise, excessive wear, internal bind, and hard
shifting. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in
gear, shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. The
first indications of component damage is usually hard
shifting and noise.
Shift component damage, clutch adjustment, worn
pressure plate or disc are also causes of increased
shift effort. If clutch problem is advanced, gear clash
during shifts can result. Worn or damaged synchro
rings can cause gear clash when shifting into any forward
gear. In some new or rebuilt transmissions,
new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly causing
hard or noisy shifts. In most cases, this condition will
decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise during
normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe, highly audible transmission noise is generally
the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing
damage.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAIN AND FILL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove drain plug (Fig. 2) on transmission tail
housing and drain fluid.
(3) Install drain plug.
(4) Remove transmission fill plug on left side of
the transmission case.
(5) Fill transmission with Mopart Synthetic Manual
Trans Lubricant 75W-85. The transmission is full
when the fluid level is even with the bottom of the
fill hole.
(6) Install transmission fill plug.


Instead of what Mopar suggest I use Redline D4 ATF I likes its properties.But it is a little expensive ranging from $6.99-$9.99

Patrick likes Mobil 1 ATF which is easier to get and also a great substitute.

It will take 4-5 qts to refill, I got 6 to have extra for later.
 
Man!!!! - You are onnnnittt:rock: I thought we had to wait til tomorrow for this :dontknow: :D

Go Stinker :dancing:

Thank you:D
 
damn stinker you are on a roll tonigt! I can barely keep up w/ your posts! Thanks again....I had no idea it was this easy and thought RC's had a filter and bands and all that crap! I'll be doinng mine this weekend! I gotta find me some trans fluid.....basically speaking will any high end synthetic tranny fluid work? I appreciate all of your contributions to the forum!
 
Rice Eater said:
damn stinker you are on a roll tonigt! I can barely keep up w/ your posts! Thanks again....I had no idea it was this easy and thought RC's had a filter and bands and all that crap! I'll be doinng mine this weekend! I gotta find me some trans fluid.....basically speaking will any high end synthetic tranny fluid work? I appreciate all of your contributions to the forum!
It does make a huge difference when he is drunk:p You can understand him:D :D :burnout:

Kidding!!! :star:
 
You can use a synthetic 75w-80 fluid yes. but...

the automatic synthetic will ease the shifting tons!

plus make the tranny much much quieter!

The redline DT+4 is an auto tranny fluid and transaxle fluid.

I am not sure which mobil 1 fluid Patrick used maybe he will chime in. I think Dexron II for gm trannies but not sure on that.

Jack also mentioned another great brand.


and thanks there bud:D
 
How did youknow Wifey?:dontknow:

LOLOL I;m in my building, putting the bead locks on my rims for the slicks and got a small fridge packed with...........bud!:D light, wish I had the michelob but the bud was on sale!LOLOLOl

let me pm Patrick and see which tranny fluid he used
 
Hey guys..sorry, out in the garage hard-wiring the V1 so cords aren't everywhere :)

Anyways, for the T-56, there are 2
different fluids you can use to replace the factory fluid junk. You can use Synchromesh available @ autozone for about 6.00/qt (highly recommended by Trumec) or you can also use a lighter weight Mobil 1 full Synthetic ATF also available @ autozone. Depending on the climate you live in, you can make a decision. If you live in warmer climate, the synchromesh is the way to go, colder, then use the Mobil 1. I put Mobil 1 in for 2k miles, then put the synchromesh in for 2k miles and noticed the synchromesh is definitely a thinker 'gear' oil, while the Mobil is a thinner 'oil'.

Both fluids will eliminate the cold weather shifting issues (if you have any). Kevin (voodoo) changed his about 2-3k miles ago (wit the Mobil) and he likes it...



Hope this helps!

Patrick
 
Wow! Patrick - you are very creative when in the garage :D
 
I think thats about what mine was Marc, I just posted a couple extra quarts just in case ...well you know... someone spills a quart , or theirs takes a tad over 4 quarts LOLOLOL they mig:D ht come back and kick me in the noodler
 
Instead of what Mopar suggest I use Redline D4 ATF I likes its properties.But it is a little expensive ranging from $6.99-$9.99

Patrick likes Mobil 1 ATF which is easier to get and also a great substitute.

It will take 4-5 qts to refill, I got 6 to have extra for later.[/QUOTE]

That also voids your trans warranty..just add a bottle of Mopar Posi additive to what Mopar recommends
 
Also what mopar recommends is a thick slow shifting oil, even ford recommends using ATF.

Using ATF is going to make the tranny shifting operated better, fster, and cooler, and provide better protection, thus eliminating any needs for tranny warranty.
 
contact tremec or t56rebuilds.com and they will both back up the statment that the factory syntorq will tearup your tranny....dont take my word it, call them :)

Telephone:
(888) 937-4411 ( Toll Free Direct )
(713) 937-4411 ( Office Direct )
(832) 488-0533 ( Cellular Direct )

(713) 937-4420 (Fax Direct)

Patrick
 
Why thank you Patrick, and too just to add think of it this way, you are basically putting rear axle lube back in the tranny with the factory stuff.

Thick , stanky, nasty, gooy, just plain wrong!LOLOL:D
 
Stinker said:
Why thank you Patrick, and too just to add think of it this way, you are basically putting rear axle lube back in the tranny with the factory stuff.

Thick , stanky, nasty, gooy, just plain wrong!LOLOL:D

Ezakary
 
When I changed out the Mopar Gear oil to ATF there was a noticible difference in the ease of moving the shifter, the original oil I took out was pretty nasty so I will go for another 3000 miles and change it out again. Hopefully that will have cleaned out all the old goop!!
 

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