MOPAR Stainless Headers

Discussion in 'New Members Section' started by AMS3, Jun 29, 2020 at 12:21 PM.

  1. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    So as some of you know, I'm looking at Billy Boat headers. What's your thoughts about the MOPAR Headers? I would assume that MOPAR designed them to get the best bang for the buck for performance. Let me know what you all think.
     
  2. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The mopar headers require the steering link to come apart (no big deal) and heat-wrap for the link.
    Just a heads-up there.
    The B&B do not.
     
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  3. oldcolt

    oldcolt Striker Heads and Cam Supporting Member

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    I had the full MOPAR/Borla set up, I changed to Billy Boat. It all depends on what sound you want. MOPAR was louder and more high pitched. Billy Boat gives a deeper more refined tone. Power gains would be about the same.
     
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  4. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Power Gains= Next to none.
     
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  5. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I had a chance to run mine with oem manifolds and the sound was even deeper compared to the B&B exhaust with B&B headers.
     
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  6. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    My truck arrived to me with Belanger coated headers, that look great, I have no idea on what cost was involved
    yet another brand to homework
    In NZ anything with factory branding is real expensive and not the best performance product available
     
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  7. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    When it comes to headers on these trucks..... Gains in Headaches are more prevalent than power. If you want the the best of both worlds, have your stock manifolds acid etched to increase interior volume of the "logs" by 15%. Then have them Jet Hot coated for additional heat retention and appearance. These cast iron manifolds flow VERY nice and heat retention to maximize scavenging is also very good. All without fitment issues and the future melting of wiring harnesses. ;)

    Acid Etch Exhaust Manifolds:

    -Muratic Acid

    -Loctite Silicone Gasket Maker

    -5 (or one solid) Block off plate(s) for manifold input ports from heads.

    Fill manifold from collector end with collector end at highest point and fill with a measured amount of water to determine before volume. Then again after. Convert oz. to cc for total volume.

    -Fill with Muratic Acid and let set for two hours. Dump, rinse and Repeat four times total. Approximately 15% more volume can be obtained.

    Cheers!
     
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  8. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I used old fashioned grinding on my oem manifolds which required an industrial-sized handheld grinder and an aggressive bit as they are made of some sort of Kryptonite alloy and are freakin' hard!

    The surprising thing (to me) was the amount of core-shift there was from one end of the manifold to the other, considering not that many were produced.

    Once that material was removed, a few of them had walls that were a little thin, but still safe and no longer blocked the exhaust port.

    Did all that work pay off?
    Probably, but just freeing up the restrictions blocking the exhaust ports made me "feel better" :)

    Fitting the headers was the expected nightmare and a nylon ratchet strap worked its magic to pull the primaries in the right direction. One hole was off at least 50% (the primary was actually twisted) and had to be repaired with a high-speed grinder and a good bit as SS is also hard!

    After the headers went through some hot and cold cycles, they were no longer under any stress and fit just fine.

    Ceramic coating IS A MUST and the reduction in underhood heat is incredible.
     
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  9. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    Good grief, that's a lot of work. Since I don't have access to a shop, or tools, I'm just gonna go with the Billy Boat and let my speedshop install. Is there any harnesses I need to be aware of to move away from the headers to keep from melting?
     
  10. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    Hmm, I want deeper, not higher. Billy Boat it is.
     
  11. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    A couple of things: I'd use the Mopar exhaust gaskets AND have the headers ceramic-coated.
    Watch for wiring at the rear, passenger side.
     
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  12. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Carefully tether the ganglia found there to the heater hoses (general area) with a couple or 3 tie-wraps, done.
     
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  13. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    That is what I have done
     
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  14. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    Thanks for the info. Do you know how much the cost is to have the headers coated, and who would you recommend?
     
  15. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I'm in Calgary, Canada and it cost me around $280.00

    For you in the United States, it will likely be around $24.95 :)

    Make a few calls in your area to see who can get the job done.
    Once again, I wouldn't skip this step.
     
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  16. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    PS Don't get talked into Header Wrap/Blankets instead of ceramic coating.
    They are excellent for trapping moisture and speeding up rust.
     
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  17. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    Like he said