pokeytemplar
Full Access Member
Which headers hug the block the closest? I have very little room in my engine bay and am hoping one of the off the shelf headers will work instead of a complete custom build. Thanks in advance.
PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE
- Thread starter JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE
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How do the B&B long tubes compare to the belanger and mopar headers:dontknow: I know they are priced about the same. Looked through the forum and couldn't find any info.
kyle's srt10 said:
Nobody like this thread anymore?:dontknow:
Begood
Full Access Member
Sorry, I don't have LT headers. I have Bassani's.
Bill.
Bill.
bclark05
New Member
kyle's srt10 said:
I have the Belangers and they seem to be tight to the block. during install the only thing that I had to disconect was the steering shaft(1 bolt) and slide it to the side. PM me if you want a pic from under the hood, or look up (iam2fst4u, my username on youtube)and I have a video on there of the headers.
if i can ask this question in all seriousness...is it absolutely necessary to switch to the viper hydrolics upgrade...i do drive it hard every now and again, and drag it at the strip... so far just on street tires...my only reason for asking is money right now...i'm a self employed contractor...enough said, i'm sure...it seems everyone is/has gone through this, but i need to know honestly, and realistically...daily driver, hauling trailers, occasional racing...will it be fine...the trucks basically stock, and such time as i start making it my money pit, the least of my worries will be the cost of the hydro upgrade...if i decide not to upgrade, should i just go back with the stock clutch, or would installing a better clutch really cause them to completely fail...i'm not vehiclularly stupid, so i think i'll understand pretty much any explanations for the swap/non-swap bearing in mind just the daily driver part, is it really OK, or what???...and i know, i know it's like 1200 bucks to change the whole thing out...but right now...every dollar matters...thanks in advance
viperhauler said:
If your going to do it you should go ahead and upgrade the clutch as well
If you do this it should be just fine pulling with it. Just don't drive like crazy with 5,000lbs behind ya
oh, duh, i fogot to say that i'm probably installing the centerforce clutch...a clutch replacement is due...it's just the viper upgrades i'm STILL questioning....i know i thousand owners "can't be wrong"...but i need decisive reasoning...not just it's better....or somebody personally saying "all i did was upgrade the clutch, and the thing went nuts and kept blowing out the hydrolics, and my trucks stock"...that would help
if you do it you only have to swap out the slave cylinder which is easy to disconnect and the slave only is 179. so do get to freaked it is also an easy swap this trans comes out in less than an 1hr and if your gonna change that check the clutch if your staying stock then just go with an aftemarket oem there actually better and only 300 bucks but if your gonna ad more power then go with a beefier clutch.
i guess i need to back up just a bit more or at least explain my reasoning....i put the last 40k on the truck...if i can only get say 40k out of a stock clutch...i'd like to at least try a better clutch this time...i'm not changing my driving habits at all, so therein lies my inqueries...and the price i was quoted (twice) was 450 for the OE clutch...and i can get the seemingly better spec, CF, or ACT for about the same price...but i don't want to "create" another issue by installing a clutch with more clamping force, etc
more clamping force just means it can put down more HP to the wheels in stead of losing hp with a shit clutch (oem) the centerforce and others you may have to upgrade to the metal slave but if you don't track the truck alot then it is up to you but since your changing the clutch and to keep future problems at bay you should change out the slave, after 10 runs at the track the stock slave gets mushy, i change mine out when I did the clutch I got my slave from napa for 179 bucks so its worth it for a peice of mind.
realistically do you think the aftermarket clutches will last longer than the oems or are they just better for the higher hp applications
IMO just better for HP oem can last quit a while longer if your not beating on it or ridin the clucth. for launches now and then oem is fine if your not a mod monster:burnout: :marchmellow: I belive the oem clutch is capable up 550hp anything over that and you will do what I did to mine I will post pics tommorow it is at work and another souvinar for my collection of broke shit.:marchmellow: :marchmellow: and to be honest the slave may last if you drive like a normal person. :marchmellow:
. :marchmellow:
honestly, i'm not a mod monster...if i was, i wouldn't be caring about a 200 dollar part...it's just everybody says "do it, do it"...i don't like doing things twice...i'm trying to get a feel for whether or not an aftermarket clutch WILL cause premature failures, as that seems to be the question nobody's asked, yet
FATJACK
Full Access Member
My original clutch lasted 40,000 miles, so I replaced it with another stocker after hearing many stories of members not being happy with the Centerforce setup. I tried to save a little money and not replace the hydraulics had to take the whole thing back down and replace hydraulics two weeks later. Could tell a big difference.
not being happy with the CF....and tell a big difference in what...the engagement, travel, feel, .......if everybody who's rolling their eyes at me (still) knew me personally, you'd know why i want so many details...FATJACK said:
dude you can replace what you want with whatever you want, the suggestions you are getting are from people dealing with this issue since they came out. A high performance clutch usually wont last as long 1. Usually your racing more track etc, and it depends on you driving habits. I went with a centerforce because I have an S/C hence more hp but if your not gonna mod alot then an oem will be fine and the slave will probabally go out with an oem anyway because it will clamp alot better then your worn out one. And the differance between the slave cylinders is ours is a plastic base and housing, the viper one is metal and can withstand the heat. SO in the end it is all on what you decide to do we can only give you advice and try to save you future headaches. So you have to decide what you want.
i'm obviously indecisive on this...and only this...i got a line on a cf kit for a good deal, but where would i go on here to do some price shopping, too?
FATJACK
Full Access Member
ttt....
HOT RAM
Full Access Member
I just replaced my X-Metal throttlebody with the (slightly modified ) stock unit and it was still surging from the throttle tapping .I found it was more of a TPS sensor issue than the single-blade throttlebody.All corrected now:rock:
(but the X-Metal is still for sale)
) stock unit and it was still surging from the throttle tapping .I found it was more of a TPS sensor issue than the single-blade throttlebody.All corrected now:rock: (but the X-Metal is still for sale)
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