periodic non-starting issue on (very) low-mile 05 SRT-10

[ozymandias]

Background: I owned a 2005 SRT-10 QC from new until about 2011 -- sold it due to needing an SUV for the family. Always missed it, and finally bought a low-mile (3000, seriously) 2005 SRT-10 QC identically-speced to the one I used to own.

Now, being 19 years old now (the truck I mean, not my old ass), I expect some issues. I have some preventative maintenance to do I know, etc.

I just got the truck a day or so ago. It doesn't like to start easily. As in --- turn the key on, everything lights up, hit the start button, cranks like crazy, but never fires. Turn off. Repeat. Often, second try, fires right up. Sometimes, 4th try.

Me knowing just enough to be dangerous but mostly clueless thinks this sounds like a fuel-delivery issue. Fuel pump relay? But, once it is running, there are no issues at all -- only a start issue. And, it works sometimes. So, something is failing intermittently only at engine-crank time.

Thoughts?

And, latest recommendation on tires? The tires on this 3000-mile thing have been there for 8 years now (apparently someone got tired of 11-year-old tires 8 years ago). I'm not planning on going anywhere long anytime soon, but know the original Pirellis are no longer made ... so what is the current thinking? I'm not going to be driving super aggressively, but I also don't want to buy some hard-as-crap long-lasting tires that will make the ride feel like crap.

 

[rottenronnie]

Hello and welcome back to SRT-10 life!

The next time it doesn't want to start, crank it over with the throttle to the floor the entire time. That will shut off the injectors (as it will ANY fuel-injected engine), called "Clear Flood Mode".

I have run across the occasional SRT-10 that floods.

If it starts, (obviously let up on the throttle).

Try that and I hope it works.

It may need a highway jaunt; after all it is a performance engine.

You may also have some older gasoline and/or water in the tank. Run it low then fill it with fresh Premium and drive it!


I need tires too.
Some like the Nexen.

 

[ozymandias]

Just so I understand (and realize I'm clueless), why would just cranking it normally cause it to flood? Every time I have tried to start it over the 2 days I've had it so far, it has failed to start on a cold (or even warm) crank. 2, 3, or 4 cranks later, starts right up.

I absolutely will try what you say -- I'm just trying to understand what the actual issue is.

Thank you for the tire advice -- I'll look up Nexen (never heard of it, but that's not surprising as I'm way out of date!)!!!!

Man though -- it is so nice having one of these again. Despite the lack of a few modern conveniences (bluetooth!), these are amazingly comfortable and easy-to-drive rides, not even counting the awesome performance!

 

[rottenronnie]

I'm guessing it is trying to flood. Maybe the injectors are puddling and/or are a wee bit sticky from so little use over that much time.

Or fuel, as mentioned. Or both.

They ARE comfortable on longer trips and produce crazy amounts of useful Torque.

Flooded engines used to spew large amounts of black smoke once they started. Modern engines don't.

It isn't easy to diagnose via Forum, but possible flooding is a place to start!

Please follow up if you have time as it helps others!!

Ronnie

 

[Wifey]

Welcome back!! Glad you got a nice low mileage truck! If anyone knows what to try for your issue it's rottenronnie! Our go to guy

Good luck and yes please follow up with your results

 

[rottenronnie]

I might cave under the immense pressure and expectations! And I was just getting over my TOTM win!!

 

[Wifey]

You're a survivor! You'll be just fine!

 

[ozymandias]

Haha love the comments above. I'll definitely report back about what is going on and will try the guru's advice! I'll take anything I can get!

The next problem (super minor) is the side mirror controls don't work. Doesn't matter which side I select -- nothing happens. I know -- check the fuse first. If that's not it, I'm guessing it must be the 4-way rocker switch (because it is both of them that aren't working). If I'm wrong on the above, please save me some time and point me in the right direction! LOL

 

[Wifey]

We try to add a little fun to the learning and problem solving!

I'm glad the issues so far seem small that's encouraging.

 

[2005ViperRam]

The switch is really cheap on ebay. Like $35. The only problem is the SRT-10 uses silver tops. I was successful pulling the new black ones off and putting the silver ones on. I must say that with only 3,000 miles it’s hard to believe it would be the switch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155706178936

 

[Wifey]

I really don't know anything about the electrical system but if I understand correctly it's both sides that aren't working? That makes me think it's not the rocker switch because why would they both be bad? If I had to guess I'm thinking fuse or something in the wire that powers the mirrors.

 

[Wifey]

Not specific to our trucks but May help diagnose?

dodge ram srt10 piwer mirrors not working at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[ozymandias]

I really don't know anything about the electrical system but if I understand correctly it's both sides that aren't working? That makes me think it's not the rocker switch because why would they both be bad? If I had to guess I'm thinking fuse or something in the wire that powers the mirrors.

I haven't started trying to diagnose it yet. Given that it is both, I was figuring it would have to be a fuse (but surprised that wouldn't be the same fuse as the windows given the whole switch module is all-in-one) or the 4-way directional pad. I agree it doesn't seem like it would be the selector rocker.

So far other than it needing at least 2 cranks to start every single time and the mirror controls everything else seems to be working great (knock on wood).

 

[Wifey]

I haven't started trying to diagnose it yet. Given that it is both, I was figuring it would have to be a fuse (but surprised that wouldn't be the same fuse as the windows given the whole switch module is all-in-one) or the 4-way directional pad. I agree it doesn't seem like it would be the selector rocker.

So far other than it needing at least 2 cranks to start every single time and the mirror controls everything else seems to be working great (knock on wood).

Great!! Hoping it will resolve with no major hassle

 

[Wifey]

@ozymandias Also incase you don't have access to the manuals here is a link that you can use .....

Factory service and parts manuals

2004 https://www.mediafire.com/file/8k5u7yi4olsck17/2004_Dodge_Ram_Factory_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/g2pg7vubh42ut4r/2004_Dodge_Ram_Parts_Manual.pdf/file 2005 https://www.mediafire.com/file/z4crxym43u3v8eu/2005_Dodge_Ram_Factory_Service_Manual.pdf/file...

www.vtcoa.com

 

[VIPR PWR]

Check the connections , especially look for corrosion. A 20 year old vehicle with only 3K miles had to be sitting allowing the elements to take effect ,, even if it was kept in storage or a garage ! The 10’s have over the years had corrosion problems with several things like the power and fuse boxes and controllers , tow hit wire connections and I believe even the PCM.. I also know that where the wires pass from the inner cab into the door have been a problem with wires breaking inside the grommets. Vids on that can be found on Boobtube ! I’m sure there are other circuits that corrosion have been known , maybe someone can add to the list .
OH , WIFEY , Have you brushed the Queens Fangs lately,, I hear plaque can build up and cause cavities

 

[VIPR PWR]

@ozymandias Also incase you don't have access to the manuals here is a link that you can use .....

Factory service and parts manuals

2004 https://www.mediafire.com/file/8k5u7yi4olsck17/2004_Dodge_Ram_Factory_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/g2pg7vubh42ut4r/2004_Dodge_Ram_Parts_Manual.pdf/file 2005 https://www.mediafire.com/file/z4crxym43u3v8eu/2005_Dodge_Ram_Factory_Service_Manual.pdf/file...

www.vtcoa.com

Excellent reference thread for the 10’s .. @HemiLonestar gets a high thanks for posting those manuals and putting that stick stuff on the hahaha !

 

[VIPR PWR]

Hello and welcome back to SRT-10 life!

The next time it doesn't want to start, crank it over with the throttle to the floor the entire time. That will shut off the injectors (as it will ANY fuel-injected engine), called "Clear Flood Mode".

I have run across the occasional SRT-10 that floods.

If it starts, (obviously let up on the throttle).

Try that and I hope it works.

It may need a highway jaunt; after all it is a performance engine.

You may also have some older gasoline and/or water in the tank. Run it low then fill it with fresh Premium and drive it!


I need tires too.
Some like the Nexen.

I’ll go for that ,, basically,, Ronnie is telling you to get it out on a run to blow out the cob webs for a starter .. sounds like fun to me hahaha !

 

[VIPR PWR]

Background: I owned a 2005 SRT-10 QC from new until about 2011 -- sold it due to needing an SUV for the family. Always missed it, and finally bought a low-mile (3000, seriously) 2005 SRT-10 QC identically-speced to the one I used to own.

Now, being 19 years old now (the truck I mean, not my old ass), I expect some issues. I have some preventative maintenance to do I know, etc.

I just got the truck a day or so ago. It doesn't like to start easily. As in --- turn the key on, everything lights up, hit the start button, cranks like crazy, but never fires. Turn off. Repeat. Often, second try, fires right up. Sometimes, 4th try.

Me knowing just enough to be dangerous but mostly clueless thinks this sounds like a fuel-delivery issue. Fuel pump relay? But, once it is running, there are no issues at all -- only a start issue. And, it works sometimes. So, something is failing intermittently only at engine-crank time.

Thoughts?

And, latest recommendation on tires? The tires on this 3000-mile thing have been there for 8 years now (apparently someone got tired of 11-year-old tires 8 years ago). I'm not planning on going anywhere long anytime soon, but know the original Pirellis are no longer made ... so what is the current thinking? I'm not going to be driving super aggressively, but I also don't want to buy some hard-as-crap long-lasting tires that will make the ride feel like crap.

Glad to hear you returned to the Red Button club

 

[rottenronnie]

The other side of possible flooding causing a startup issue is NO fuel. There is a Schrader fitting (black cap, pass-side fuel rail), where you are able to connect a gauge. IF during cranking (no start) you are getting low or no pressure, you have found your problem. If the pressure is up around 60 psi, it is not a fuel supply issue.
Some trial and error is normally required.