Piston Issues Confirmed..I Think.

Prof said:
Another variable in this issue!

There have been some piston issues in the Vipers, but going to Viper Alley and looking for straight information is difficult at best. The environment and culture there is so negative that few are willing to share problems.

Even here there are lots of people who just will not share their problems with these trucks...

That being said...weight is an issue...in my mind. But only one of many.

This has been fun...lots of great input...no real solutions in my mind, but lots of great exchange...and maybe just a good eduction in the complexity of modification of these wonderful engines.

There are lots of things in life that we don't resolve, but the quest for answers is a lot of the fun!

Drive em like you stole em...and build as strong as your budget will allow.

Prof,

I'm not sure what you just said but somehow it makes me feel better. You are a much wiser man than myself. LOL :D :D
 
Hi Steve,

I have seen that thread and I do not know how they had it tuned? The tuning makes or breaks a motor!! We programed yours with a conservative tune to make your motor last and YES the GENIII motors ARE built VERY cheap, i.e. cast piston w/ring land to far up & powered metal rods! If we build your motor, we will use, CP forge coated pistons, Manley forge rods w/HD wrist pins, Comp Coupe cam, lower the compression for the SC, porting heads and then we can run 10-12 lbs of boost. You should end up with 650-700 AT the wheels! Cost around $14,000-$16,000?

Happy 4th!
Chuck
 
The price is just where mine fell.

Go for it Steve!

I am expecting around 700 rwhp with 5.6 lbs of boost. But I am the eternal optimist.

Mine will fire on Tuesday, but I am off to the Keys for fishing with my son...

Roy
 
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Prof said:
The price is just where mine fell.

Go for it Steve!

I am expecting around 700 rwhp with 5.6 lbs of boost. But I am the eternal optimist.

Mine will fire on Tuesday, but I am off to the Keys for fishing with my son...

Roy
Your already in the mid 600's ..yes?
 
There were two recent threads at the VCA forums discussing FI and the internals of both the gen 2 and gen 3 motors. While everyone agrees that forged internals are better it seems that the consensus is the stock internals are good for up to 650 HP. There are no threads showing up on search for the problems we're seeing here. What is the difference??
 
cobraken said:
There were two recent threads at the VCA forums discussing FI and the internals of both the gen 2 and gen 3 motors. While everyone agrees that forged internals are better it seems that the consensus is the stock internals are good for up to 650 HP. There are no threads showing up on search for the problems we're seeing here. What is the difference??

Good point and I think my answer must be bordering on preaching by now...

The difference is lots of added weight compared to the cars, and trying to move that weight, especially from a relatively low vehicle speed (and especially during w.o.t.) and how these conditions contribute greatly to cause preignition and, if severe enough, detonation. Now throw in added pressure from a blower when under those grunt conditions and you are asking A LOT out of the engine; Controlling detonation under these conditions is very tough, to say the least; especially when using a twin screw that builds boost faster (earlier) than other designs.

A proper cam to scrub off some low r.p.m. cylinder pressure with maybe a complimentary c.r. as well, or a head with a fast-burn combustion chamber (or all of these things) could help immensely and would be some items to seriously consider during a build for a Viper truck with a fast acting blower.

Add another 1600 to 2000 pounds to some F.I. Viper cars (never mind the fact they don't push air like the trucks), and you would see the same failures we are seeing on the truck forums. Not just forced induction engines are at risk but they at more of a risk, all else being equal.

I think Dodge should have included forged pistons in the Viper trucks and while they help, only diesels are designed to survive sustained detonation, so controlling that is the real issue here.
 
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I don't mean to sound like a smart a** here but, after reading all of this it really tells me nothing. Each truck is different based on modification and tuning. Two of the biggest factors involved when burning piston and destroying rings are Air/Fuel ratio and Timing. If you have a truck that is N/A with a programmer, Supercharged, or Turbo you should be monitoring Air Fuel and timing with the appropriate gauges even when you are daily driving part throttle WOT etc. If the truck does not have a safe Air Fuel ratio which should be 11:8 or below you stand the risk over time of burning pistons and destorying rings. Timing can also cause the same problem, to much timing by by pistons and rings. If you do not know how to monitor these very important factors, you need to learn.
 
I think you need to read a little closer and more carefully...this thread does not address piston rings. My rings were fine, most engines are not having problems with rings. My pistons were not burned. All of the discussion has been about piston land failure. Not the dome, but an integral part of the piston skirt.

Not sure how much you understand about the SRT 10 pcm, but one of the issues we are constantly struggling with is the pcm pulling timing as heat increases, and when air/fuel ratios begin to stray.

You don't sound like a smart ass. Your observations are certainly correct and monitoring of all available data is always a prudent practice. Tuning these engines is incredibly important, but we have experienced some issues with very conservative tunes, and are trying to do some analysis to find an approach that will yield a little more safety margin.

I had three different tunes via my VEC II piggy back system...minus 6 degrees of timing, one with three degrees of timing pulled and one with zero degrees, as many of us have.

Our hypothesis is that in forced induction engines, there seems to be a piston failure that is consistent. We are now finding that engines that are normally aspirated, are having some of the same issues. It is only through sharing of information, that some of these persistent issues appear.

Thanks for your input...more ideas just add broader perspective.
 
Well said Roy -- I am as concerned as anyone about this issue - even with my minimum mods shit can happen -

Yea - my Mopar/Borla and K&N items are also sold warrantied by Mopar but...

- the SCT, well I trust Chris Jensen and it is a mild tune - he just sent me a version with the rev limited to 5800 at my request but ...

Someone said in the thread that he puckers up when he gets on it hoping it will stay in one piece -- Sadly, I know the feeling :(

Frankly I feel for all the guys that have had issues and blown engines -- it truly makes me wanna vomit - this sucks!
 
Perspective is an important characteristic...

The current Chrysler corp "Life Time Warranty" does not include SRT vehicles.

That says a lot about pushing the capability of engines that are marketed as performance machines.

We love these trucks. We just have to understand that there are so few of them that we need to be very careful investigators so that the family will continue to enjoy their virtues while we manage their short-comings.
 
Silverback said:
Hello Roy,

Sorry, I have not had the time to do my part in responding to you. I have a doctors appointment in the morning and then the Cobra goes on the dyno for the final tune of the carb's.

If I have the time tomorrow I will try to run the numbers for you.

However I do have one comment. The piston will not fail if there is not an excessive load on the rings. That is the only load they will see.

Okay, now that can be caused by a number of things. Heat and ring gap was mentioned. This is true, however you should also see cylinder scuffing and some wear pattern on the rings. Excessive cylinder pressures which results in high pressure on the ring, and then the land. And last, but not least, detonation. And that is my guess.

I have stated this a number of times, and many hear don't f*cking listen, but I will say it again. I don't care if you have forged steel pistons. If you are suffering from detonation, they will fail after a period of time. Only difference is that it will take longer, but the result will be the same.

And as long as I'm on a roll, I'm going to comment once again about methonal injection. Mixing water with methonal is stupid in my opinion. Why? Two reasons. First is all you are doing is adding water to the system and it does not burn. Ever watch NHRA racing? You will notice that they sometimes mention the humidy. The more water in the air, the more power loss they experience. Do they inject water? Hell no.

Okay, item number two. How do you put out a methonal fire? You pour water on it. So by adding water to methonal, all you have done is delute it so it won't burn. Yes, it does help reduce detonation, but not as well as straight methonal.

Want a simple test? On a warm day, pour rubbing alcohole (f*ck how it's spelt) on your skin. It's cold, right? That's because it's evaporating. Now mix it 50/50 with water. Do you get the same results? Hell no.

So the advantage of straight methonal over a mix is two fold. First it cools the intake charge of air more than a mix. Second is that it burns if not mixed with water, so you get more power out of it.

Hope that helps some.


The meth theory makes sense.My question is why isn't anyone running straight meth instead of this windshield washer fluid. I for one would like to try it. Who has it?
 
You are spot on, except for the "smart man" phrase...

The other variable is disposable income...being proactive is a lot easier when your wife is well employed...:D
 
That is interesting....silverback's comments about water...why are the performance people/companys sayng run a mix? What silver says about pure alcohol makes complete sense...I am running a 49/51 meth/water mix...
 
I disagree with the water/meth objection. But my scientist resource in in Philly tonight so I can't sound smart about it.

But she is an avid advocate of water/meth injection especially the water part. Her corporation sells a process into power plants world wide that is a water injection system that atomizes the water molecules with the fuel mixture and increases the efficacy of the burn, "properly sprayed (read very fine spray) water" when mixed with air and fuel is a technology that has been accepted, acknowledged and widely used in coal fired and fuel oil burning power plants.

I am sure that straight meth would cool much more. But how much is the right amount becomes the question. I jokingly mentioned liquid nitrogen as a cooling agent in another thread...but the question becomes 'at what point does the temperature reduction begin to inhibit the ignition process'...fires have a tough time at zero degrees Kelvin!
 
Silverback said:
I have run water, water/methonal mix, and straight methonal in the same engine, and I can gaurantee you that I was able to run more boost and achieve more hp from the straight methonal.

Here's a question for you. How many BTU's are there in water? How many in a 50/50 mix, v/s straight methonal.

Does water burn? Does methonal burn? Does a mix burn?

My thought was that the water mix slowed down the flame...same as high octane...to prevent detonation while cooling...:dontknow: :dontknow:
 
This is a copy of a post that Bone posted.

Bone said:
(info from many different sites below)

Every engine has its own tastes.

If you evaporate 1 lb of water versus 1 lb of Meth, the water does cool the surface much more. However, Methanol has a much higher propensity to evaporate than water. So, you can evaporate it at a much higher rate, thus cooling much more.

http://www.landracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=68

What is Water/Methanol Injection?

Water Injection or Water Methanol Injection, is a process by which a mixture or water and Methanol are injected into the fuel/air mixture on the way to the combustion chamber. Water/Methanol Injection provides "Chemical Intercooling" inside the cylinder. By injecting water and methanol in a finely atomized spray, the water is able to evaporate under the high temps of a firing cylinder, and when the water evaporates, it takes heat with it. The methanol also has a cooling and octane boosting effect as it burns.

How does water/methanol injection allow your engine to produce more power?

The production of more power by a water/meth injected engine is not a by-product of the water/meth mixture alone. You must tune for it to get the most out of it. The evaporative effects of the water/meth mixture, plus the octane boost, allows you to run more advanced timing, and boost, thus increasing power. Methanol having the octane boosting effect, you can adjust your AFR's with tuning, and be able to run the same AFR as a pump gas tune with less fuel added to the fuel map of your engine managment. When the system is spraying, methanol is making up for the fuel that gets taken away during the tuning process. You end up with about same 12.5:1 or so AFR with less pump gas added, you also increase knock resistance, and due to the octane boosting effect, you can add timing and boost to make more power safely.

What is Methanol?

Methanol is the simplest alcohol compound, comprised of one carbon atom, one oxygen atom and four hydrogen atoms (CH3OH). It is also referred to as wood alcohol, carbinol and methyl alcohol. It is poisonous, flammable and relatively volatile. It has no taste or color, but it does have a slight scent.

Methanol is used as a fuel and an antifreeze, and to make formaldehyde. It is also added to ethanol to make it unpalatable so that it avoids taxes on drinkable alcohol, as ethanol without a denaturant of some sort is consumable by humans. Methanol was first discovered in 1661, though it had been used without isolation by peoples as far back as the Egyptians in their embalming processes. The name comes from methy, meaning wine, and hyle, meaning trees.

Methanol is used as a fuel source by some, though its use is limited by its volatility. The main area in which one sees methanol being used is in many top-end racing engines. The vehicles in the Indy 500, for example, are all run on methanol. This methanol is usually produced using a fossil fuel as the synthesis gas, either natural gas or petroleum.

Many renewable energy advocates see methanol as an ideal fuel source, with distinct advantages over hydrogen. When methanol is made from materials such as wood, it is often called bioalcohol. The theoretical use of methanol as a widespread fuel source has given rise to a theory describing what is known as the methanol economy.

In the methanol economy, the common fuel is methanol, with non-renewable fuels having a minority share or being entirely unused. George Olah, a winner of the Nobel Prize, is a strong advocate of this path. Advocates point out that in contrast to hydrogen, methanol is relatively cheap to produce, can be manufactured with little or no waste, is efficient to store and can be made from sources other than fossil fuels. Also, while conversion to a hydrogen economy would require major changes in infrastructure, methanol could be phased in relatively easily because of its interoperability with fossil fuels. One can mix methanol with gasoline to produce hybrid fuels while making the shift in economy.

Unfortunately, methanol is very toxic and contains a number of hazards. It is less volatile than hydrogen, but also much heavier, which could allow contamination in the case of spills or tank leaks. A wide range of groups are constantly looking for new and innovative uses for methanol, and it seems apparent that it will have a role in the energy economy of the future. Whether that role is as the key player or a supporter to hydrogen or some other fuel source remains to be seen.

Can you run just water injection without methanol?

Yes, but you will not be able to take advantage of the octane boosting properties of methanol, thus you will get cooling from the water, but no increase in octane. Without methanol, you may not make as much power, as it acts as a detonation inhibitor, and you may not be able to run a leaner AFR as you could with it.

What supporting upgrades are required for water/methanol injection?

At minimum you should have some sort of engine management that can be tuned, I.E. able to adjust timing, boost, and fuel curves, to compensate for the octane boost, and cooling effects, and be able to take advantage of them to make power. Otherwise you can run water/meth injection on a stock car with tunable engine management. You do not have to have after-market intakes, exhausts, intercoolers, or strengthened internals. Although with more supporting mods that already increase the volumetric efficiency of the engine, the more power that can be had.

Who makes Water/Methanol injection systems?

There are many manufactures of water/injection systems:

These are some of the more popular and most inclusive kits for the money
www.aquamist.co.uk
http://www.snowperformance.net/
www.coolingmist.com
www.alcohol-injection.com
www.enginerunup.com
www.fjoracing.com/products/waterinjection
www.smcenterprises.com/subaru.htm
Here is a link to details on companies:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=958501
Who is the best manufacture to go with?

That is up to debate, but when you choose a kit, look at all the components that come with the kit, or if you can buy extra pieces that you may need, or think you need I.E. Level switches, fail safes, extra nozzles, varible controllers.
Also consider what type of reservoir you are going to have to use, or does the kit include one?
Most companies have some sort of reservoir, some make you use the existing windshield wiper tank, or make you supply your own.
Also read other peoples experiences with different kits as far as setup, price, inclusiveness of kit (does it satisfy all your requirements part-wise), power gains, etc.

How do I know how big a nozzle to run?

Here is a water injection calculator to assist in this
Calculator

Another injection calculator
[/url]=http://www.alcohol-injection.com/for...read.php?t=351[/url]

It is at the bottom of the page...

Here is a volume converter also, to cross reference nozzles. Some companies list volumes of their nozzle in metric, some in standard units of measure.
http://www.sciencemadesimple.net/volume.php

Where can I get methanol?
One of the best sources that some probably don't realize is from wal-mart or anywhere that sells basic windshield wiper fluid. Just make sure you don't get the stuff with Glycol in it...this is the same stuff used in engine anti-freeze. It won't work well, or could damage you engine.

Other sources:

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_f...55#special ty

This one has a comprihensive list of suppliers all over the USA

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=121500

You can buy on-line from these guys:
LINK
www.pricechemical.com/
www.powermist.com/distrib.html
www.worldwideracingfuels.com/catalog_c30755.html

Those are just some.

Are there any water injection forums I can learn more from?

Yes, here are a few:

Aquamist's, probably has the most info and activity
www.waterinjection.info/phpBB2/
www.waterinjectionforum.com
www.waterinjection.info
http://snowperformance.net/forum/
www.alcohol-injection.com/forum

How do I know what mixture to inject?

THe best rule of thumb is a 50/50 mix of methnol and distilled water

Some use more meth, some use less. But windshield wiper fluid is commonly between 35-42% methanol, which will usually work fine. The best mixture is proportionate to your particular state of tune. A little less methanol could possibly cause detonation. Mixing it yourself maybe the best way to know what is right for you.

Here is a freeze table for methanol also:

http://www.ashchem.com/adc/chemicals...=3&is_header=N

Just be careful with methanol as it is corrosive, toxic, and a carcinogen. Please be careful if you decide to mix your own brew.

Here is a link to a methanol hydrogemeter:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ezrs104.html

Here is a great how to page:

http://www.dawesdevices.com/howto.html

Can you build your own kit, and how?

You need some basics to build your own system.

You need a pump with adequate pressure, most people use some type of diaphram pump, from ShurFlo for example.

You need nozzles

You need tubing

You need a trigger to turn on the system at the right time, some type of pressure switch...Some engine management such as TurboXS UTEC has a spare solenoid that can be setup to run your water injection system.

Many of the things needed for setting up a system can be found at these suppliers

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...UseBVCookie=no
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=68424
www.mcmaster.com/

And here is a great how to page on building your own...
http://www.projectwrx.com/modules.ph...howpage&pid=34

Can water/meth injection cause damage to my engine?

As with any aftermarket part, yes it can.

If you are running water/meth injection, you are risking detonation and catostrophic engine failure shoud you system fail or not run at optimum efficiency. This is due to the fact that when tuned you will be running advanced timing, boost and leaner fuel trims that would normally not be possible without water/meth injection. Loss of the system while under heavy load may not be able to be compensated for in time, and could cause detonation at best case, and engine failure at worst case. Be careful, and make sure you use a failsafe, or a tune that retards timing at the onset of knock, and some sort of level indicatior for the reservior, to ensure you know when the tank is getting empty. Nozzle clog indicators are not a bad idea either. They are especially important if using tap water, or not using a filter in the system, to catch impuritiies. This is why distilled water is best for this application.

Can I run without a external intercooler?

Yes, but your tune has to be setup to compesate for it. Advantages to running without a TMIC or FMIC are better spool of turbo and response, due to less volume to fill up. But again, you must make sure your system is working properly all the time, some have experimented with not using an external intercooler with success.

What gains can be made from water/meth injection?

This all depends on the current setup of your car, type of car, and your tuners ablilty. All your supporting mods such as exhaust, intakes, turbos gains are best realized with some sort of aftermarket tuning. The same it true with water/meth injection. But generally gains of 20-30 Hp and 20-30 ft/lbs of tq are common, making this one of the best bang for the buck power upgrades for your car. Your gains of course depend on supporting mods you already have in place, that will let you take advantage of the tuning to a higher degree.

Other NASIOC threads concerning water/meth injection:

LINK
LINK
LINK
LINK
LINK
LINK
LINK

Octane info and such...UPDATED

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biobutanol
http://www.csgnetwork.com/octaneratecalc.html


Disclaimer:
I can not be held responsible to any damage or mis-forture that may befall you or your engine due to the ideas expressed in this thread. Everything that your try concerning water/methanol injection is done at your own risk.
 
I wasn't going to comment on this anylonger, but today I had to go to a vendor to witness a load test on a tool, and it failed. Got me to thinking, and I think I came up with a way to maybe convey this in terms that non-engineers will under stand.

If you go to your local Home Depot, or Lowes store to look at ladders, you will now find that they are rated for a maximum weight. Generally they start at 200 pounds and then 250, and then 300. You will also see that as the capacity increases, so does the size of the structural members of the ladder, as well as the cost.

I should add that they also include a Safety Factor into their designs. Let's say the safety factor is 10%. That means that the ladder rated at 200 pounds will not fail until it's loaded to 220 pounds. Of course, they don't tell you that, but it's there.

Now let's apply that same engineering practice to our engines. And for this exercise, I'm only going to apply it to the pistons. And I'm only going to use nice round numbers that I'm pulling out of my ass. Don't have the time to do any calculations.

So, we have a nice 10 to 1 compression ratio engine that sees 1000psi at ignition. Let's say that the engineering once again used a safety factor of 10%, so the piston is designed to hold up to 1100psi. Now this is the same as the ladder. If you increase the safety factor, you will increase the weight and cost. And in an engine, you really are trying to minimize the rotating mass.

So then along comes Hot Rod Roy,;) we will just refer to him as HRR from now on. HRR isn't satisfied with a fast truck. He wants a faster truck. Well HRR adds a blower, turbo, nitrous, and a Turbonator (or whatever that piece of shit is that they try to sell on late night tv) so he can now go faster. Well with all of HRR's go fast goodies, his cylinder pressures are now in the 1500psi range. Well since the pistons were only designed for 1100psi, there will be a failure. And that is why all the pistons failed. They allowables for the piston design was exceeded in all cylinders. In order for the pistons to have not failed, the engineer would have had to designed for a safety factor of 50%. This would have added considerable cost to the sticker price.

And before someone jumps in and says that they would have gladly paid that price, I have to tell you, you are in the minority. As it was people did not want to pay the existing price of the truck. If they had, dealers would not have had to discount them to move them off of the lot, and they would still be manufacturing them.

Hope that makes sense to some of you.
 
Silverback said:
I wasn't going to comment on this anylonger, but today I had to go to a vendor to witness a load test on a tool, and it failed. Got me to thinking, and I think I came up with a way to maybe convey this in terms that non-engineers will under stand.

If you go to your local Home Depot, or Lowes store to look at ladders, you will now find that they are rated for a maximum weight. Generally they start at 200 pounds and then 250, and then 300. You will also see that as the capacity increases, so does the size of the structural members of the ladder, as well as the cost.

I should add that they also include a Safety Factor into their designs. Let's say the safety factor is 10%. That means that the ladder rated at 200 pounds will not fail until it's loaded to 220 pounds. Of course, they don't tell you that, but it's there.

Now let's apply that same engineering practice to our engines. And for this exercise, I'm only going to apply it to the pistons. And I'm only going to use nice round numbers that I'm pulling out of my ass. Don't have the time to do any calculations.

So, we have a nice 10 to 1 compression ratio engine that sees 1000psi at ignition. Let's say that the engineering once again used a safety factor of 10%, so the piston is designed to hold up to 1100psi. Now this is the same as the ladder. If you increase the safety factor, you will increase the weight and cost. And in an engine, you really are trying to minimize the rotating mass.

So then along comes Hot Rod Roy,;) we will just refer to him as HRR from now on. HRR isn't satisfied with a fast truck. He wants a faster truck. Well HRR adds a blower, turbo, nitrous, and a Turbonator (or whatever that piece of shit is that they try to sell on late night tv) so he can now go faster. Well with all of HRR's go fast goodies, his cylinder pressures are now in the 1500psi range. Well since the pistons were only designed for 1100psi, there will be a failure. And that is why all the pistons failed. They allowables for the piston design was exceeded in all cylinders. In order for the pistons to have not failed, the engineer would have had to designed for a safety factor of 50%. This would have added considerable cost to the sticker price.

And before someone jumps in and says that they would have gladly paid that price, I have to tell you, you are in the minority. As it was people did not want to pay the existing price of the truck. If they had, dealers would not have had to discount them to move them off of the lot, and they would still be manufacturing them.

Hope that makes sense to some of you.

So is what your saying is ......

If I stand on any ladder.....it will fail :eek:



Actually, this is the exact same theory I was taught by one of the members of our local club. In a nutshell, SE pretty much said that most people when trying to go faster/increase power, they never take in to consideration the limits already in place.

He made a point in saying that the building of an engine requires that all aspects of the build work well together

Thank You John.....Stock it will stay........:D

VJ
 

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