The Engine Build

Yes it will be interesting. Should be strong enough. Build for 1000hp strength and run at maybe....700hp
That is my style. I can only afford to build it once.
Well to be honest I can't afford to build it......but I am.
I'd be interested in seeing the complete list from start to finish for your build.
 
I will keep you informed as we go, yes we, not just me. You have to surround yourself with likeminded people who know their craft
 
From John

We don’t want to go to aggressive on cam profile due to weight of the truck. Need to keep bottom torque to move the weight.



Something in that 232 238 @.050 or 238 [email protected] .634 .622 lift area 114 or 115 +4

The Strikers will flow well to .700 but .630 is plenty of lift for your/my N.A. application.

PS
If you were ever considering Nitrous sometime in the future, the ring gap used NOW will dictate how big a shot you could use later. For example, I'm using a low(er) tension ring with a fairly tight end-gap because Nitrous was never in my build plan. Anything more than a 100 shot would likely burn it down.

Maybe something to discuss with John if you were considering Nitrous(?) Its a fairly big job to change things later. ;)

More Sunday Morning ramblings...
 
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The Strikers will flow well to .700 but .630 is plenty of lift for your/my N.A. application.

PS
If you were ever considering Nitrous sometime in the future, the ring gap used NOW will dictate how big a shot you could use later. For example, I'm using a low(er) tension ring with a fairly tight end-gap because Nitrous was never in my build plan. Anything more than a 100 shot would likely burn it down.

Maybe something to discuss with John if you were considering Nitrous(?) Its a fairly big job to change things later. ;)

More Sunday Morning ramblings...
No nitrous. No Turbos, No Superchargers.
Just a nice strong NA engine.
It will be fast enough and sound good too.
 
I see what you mean about the threaded holes in the intake ports. A bit crude. Should I fill the hole once bolts are in to stop turbulence in port?
I just seal the bolts with O2 compatible silicone on the threads prior to installation so they won't leak air. I've never had any issues doing so.

The "exposed bolt" design was the only way to straighten the factory dog-leg AND make it bolt-on friendly for the Gen III Intake.

Apparently any turbulence created was insignificant. Jeff Morys (Father Striker) had access to Chrysler's flow equipment which was (to say the least) state of the art. He also did research for Rousch and NASCAR.

The head threads are heli-coiled but you need to remember to back off on the torque spec. as it is now a wet spec and no longer dry. If I remember right, I reduced the torque value by 40%
 
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Any plans for a beefier clutch?
Some stockers hold and some don't.

You can be glad you aren't running a 48RE as those definitely pack it in early with the added power. Just when you think you are finished spending money. :)
 
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Any plans for a beefier clutch?
Some stockers hold and some don't.

You can be glad you aren't running a 48RE as those definitely pack it in early with the added power. Just when you think you are finished spending money. :)
Yes John provides a good after market stronger clutch that still drives like normal 800ftlb torque
 
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Just been looking at differences between stock and Striker heads.
The port sizes, wow! Exhaust port 6mm wider 3mm higher. Inlet 3mm wider 3mm higher.
Funny how the intake and exhaust gaskets are still bigger than the port sizes.
The weight difference between the heads. You feel the extra weight in the Striker.
Need some guidance on intake manifold runners, what to take out and where.
 
The Striker Intake Port size is the same size as the Gen II Viper engine's. You could use a Gen II Intake Gasket (paper) as a template and port to that. Number 9 is more square than rectangular (on the Gen III, but shares the same volume as the others.
IF you port to exactly the Gen II gasket size, you risk piercing a wall, particularly with #9. So...port to slightly under the size of the Gen II Gasket. Long bits are available to go a long way into the runner. Avoid tapering the port.

There are small HP/TQ losses below 4000 then there are PEAK gains of 10 HP and 10 TQ around 5200 that slowly taper off to redline.

OR, leave the Intake alone with the smaller (stock) ports and enjoy the velocity (and faster cylinder filling) of those. I.O.W. leave as is.

Of course, it's up to you.
 
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The Striker Intake Port size is the same size as the Gen II Viper engine's. You could use a Gen II Intake Gasket (paper) as a template and port to that. Number 9 is more square than rectangular (on the Gen III, but shares the same volume as the others.
IF you port to exactly the Gen II gasket size, you risk piercing a wall, particularly with #9. So...port to slightly under the size of the Gen II Gasket.

OR, leave the Intake alone with the smaller (stock) ports and enjoy the velocity (and faster cylinder filling) of those. I.O.W. leave as is.

Of course, it's up to you.
So know with the thoughts on head flow and intake Flow ,, what could be used to or done with a throttle body to maximize HP efficiency Or Torque .. Does size really matter ? Single or double throttle plates , twin throttle bodies ?
What did Trainman’s and your truck (Ronnie) have different being the Top NA trucks in power output and ranges , specs …
I’m not looking at track times as QC vs SC is a factor ..
 
A properly ported or a BBK throttle body is worth 10 or 11 horsepower. There was some discussion around removing the Intake divider, going with a single blade throttle body, extrude honing the Intake, etc on this and other forums.
I went through a few Intake variations on my own with the standard see-saw between HP and Torque: One goes up and the other down.

The Gen III Intake manifold obviously works, but isn't great in the big picture.

Here are the differences you asked for, in a nutshell...

Trainman and I went 2 very different routes.

He went with a race-style engine: 561 cu. inch (via Stroker crank), ported Gen IV heads, mechanical cam 248/256 .720" on a 112 C/L, high compression, Intake (Gen V, I think) manifold, open exhaust, race fuel, drag suspension setup with skinnies, lightweight doors, windows, seats, lowered front, aero improvements, i.o.w. all the important stuff you would want for racing.
4500 pounds w Driver.

I went with a pump gas performance street engine: Standard 505 displacement, unported Strikers, mild hydraulic roller, 11:1 c.r., ported throttle body, Gen III Intake manifold, 4 cats with full exhaust, stock gearing, stock 2-piece driveshaft, stock front tires, stock suspension/stock ride height, etc; 2800 stall convertor.
5600 pounds w Driver.

Both engines produced 1.5 horsepower per cubic inch when you do the math.

We are ho'ing Kiwi's thread and may be punished!!!
 
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A properly ported or a BBK throttle body is worth 10 or 11 horsepower. There was some discussion around removing the Intake divider, going with a single blade throttle body, extrude honing the Intake, etc on this and other forums.
I went through a few Intake variations on my own with the standard see-saw between HP and Torque: One goes up and the other down.

The Gen III Intake manifold obviously works, but isn't great in the big picture.

Here are the differences you asked for, in a nutshell...

Trainman and I went 2 very different routes.

He went with a race-style engine: 561 cu. inch (via Stroker crank), ported Gen IV heads, mechanical cam 248/256 .720" on a 112 C/L, high compression, Intake (Gen V, I think) manifold, open exhaust, race fuel, drag suspension setup with skinnies, lightweight doors, windows, seats, lowered front, aero improvements, i.o.w. all the important stuff you would want for racing.
4500 pounds w Driver.

I went with a pump gas performance street engine: Standard 505 displacement, unported Strikers, mild hydraulic roller, 11:1 c.r., ported throttle body, Gen III Intake manifold, 4 cats with full exhaust, stock gearing, stock 2-piece driveshaft, stock front tires, stock suspension/stock ride height, etc; 2800 stall convertor.
5600 pounds w Driver.

Both engines produced 1.5 horsepower per cubic inch when you do the math.

We are ho'ing Kiwi's thread and may be punished!!!
NO no no!!!!
This all relevent to the build design.
One thing not discussed is full floating gudgeon pins (piston pins)
 
Have you looked into ceramic piston coatings ..
Here is a website I was looking at .. coating have been around for a long time for performance applications on pistons .. it’s like an insurance policy IMO …

 
Have you looked into ceramic piston coatings ..
Here is a website I was looking at .. coating have been around for a long time for performance applications on pistons .. it’s like an insurance policy IMO …

Who are you asking??
 
If it's me you're asking: I coat piston skirts but almost never do the domes in full aluminum engines. I find the retention of dome heat produces better overall performance.

Skirt coating is good when/if the piston touches the cylinder wall.

Dome coating is to reject heat and that's about it.

I don't care for the 170 thermostats either.

Strange but true.
 
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