Tremec / Centerforce problems..

Well i'm stuck. Is there some type of fitting i can get over the 11mm
bleeder valve that will allow me to use my vaccum pump? I think that
would be the best route as i bled it again and it's still soft as hell.
 
I have thought about it most of the evening bud, and dont make sense, if it was working before you decided to drain and flush the system , it should be know:confused:

let her sit for the night, then stop at napa an pickup a 11 mm fitting, they should have one. but look over all your connections again, the only thing I can think of is the slave took a crap on ya, but dont make sense it would:dontknow:
 
Sure thing man, i appreciate the help. I'll be seeing what i can rig up
tommorow and hopefully it's just a matter of time not parts..
 
sometimes what we do at my shop when a clutch wont bleed (or mushy) or even brakes is put a line on the bleeder valve and other end submersed in the same fluid.
 
71dusterjon said:
sometimes what we do at my shop when a clutch wont bleed (or mushy) or even brakes is put a line on the bleeder valve and other end submersed in the same fluid.
Click to expand...

hmmm what would this do besides show you that air bubbles are indeed
coming out?
 
since i haven't bleed a clutch on my truck yet, is there two points where you can bleed the system?

on my truck i have a wilwood slave with a bleeder at the end so i could bleed it there but if there is a bleeder valve down by the actual clutch, you might need to bleed that too. again i'm only starting to become familiar with these trucks.
 
I've had problems bleeding my clutch also. What worked for me was to raise the front end as high as possible and keep the rear end on the ground.
 
71dusterjon said:
since i haven't bleed a clutch on my truck yet, is there two points where you can bleed the system?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure there isn't :dontknow: but basically this is what i'm up against:

dsc02994_138_detail.jpg


I'll defintely try the vacuum bit tommorow as well as try to create some
makeshift line that attaches to my vacuum pump and see if that helps.
What's killing me is that it won't even disengage the clutch a little bit
and i've bled it alot.. i mean even with brakes you can pump them and
stop when you have air in your system.. :dontknow: All very strange
to me as this system WAS working before and a simple fluid change
really shouldn't be this difficult. :eek: oh well, try again in the morning..

Regards,

Andrew
 
OK just read this.

When bleeding brakes we always pumped the pedal up a few times,
hold it to the floor, pop open bleeder, tighten bleeder after stream stops, release petal.
Repeat till firm.

I have never bled a clutch but...

Maybe pump the petal a few times as above instead of opening bleeder while the pedal is being pushed in.:dontknow:

"..then before??? the pedal is on the floor he tells me to close it so i close it."
 
Last edited:
you know if it wont disengage the clutch even a little and the pedal is mushy, i'm thinking your throw out bearing is stuck or something mechanically. just a suggestion.
 
theres nothing wrong with your clutch set up.

heres what i did recently when i had trouble bleeding my clutch.

I also initially used a vacuum pump and it got me nowhere.

To find out where you are at do this.

disconnect the master" line that goes to the trans. All you have to do is slide

circular white clip (that looks like it has a crack in it) in towards the slave. when you do the line will just snap out or you might have to pull it slightly.

then press the clutch pedal. it should do one of two things. it should be firm as a rock and not want to budge. if the pedal goes all the way down with no resistance then that means you have air in the master cylinder that you should bleed first. I like the bench bleed method for this. grab the end of the master cylinder line and the black center needs to be pushed in with a small screw driver and then prop the valve open with a small pin.

now you need 2 people for this and a vice to hold the master cylinder.
now fill the reservoir with dot 3or4 fluid. (important keep reservoir full of fluid at all times.) and keep the end of the line submerged in brake fluid as well.
then have the second person pump the master cylinder(push the rod in) and you will see air bubbles come out the line. eventually after about 7 pumps no air should come out and the master is bled. now it is important that the pin you inserted into the valve at the end of the line be removed while it is submerged in fluid. i found it easy to remove with some needle nose pliers. if you take it out of the fluid and remove it then air will get back in there.


this is one way to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
 
FerrariTruck said:
it should do one of two things. it should be firm as a rock and not want to budge. if the pedal goes all the way down with no resistance then that means you have air in the master cylinder that you should bleed first.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up man it turns out i do have air in my
master cylinder! I'll follow the directions and post the results. :rock:

Regards,

Andrew
 
Alright folks, here's an update. I've restored original pedal feel however
the truck still won't shift.. I've bled the master cylinder tube leading to
the slave and did get a few air bubbles. Then i checked the tubing from
the reservoir to the master cylinder and got a lot of air bubbles.. After
i cleared that up i had about 1" of play on the clutch pedal before i
reconnected it to the slave cylinder. After i connected it to the slave unit
i bled the slave using the pump-hold-bleed-slow release technique four
times. Now the pedal feels like it orginally did but it doesn't seem to
disengage the clutch still?? I assume there's still air somewhere but where?!?!! :(

EDIT: After about an hour of thinking i decided to step back outside and try to disengage
the clutch with the truck off. Well to my extreme suprise i was able to fluidly shift through 1-2-3-4-5-6.
Reverse was not going to happen with the truck off.. So i started the truck and tried it and again to
my extreme suprise the truck shifted into 1st and Reverse. I just got back from a short trip down to
my local town and back and i can defintely feel air still in the lines. But atleast it shifts! So tommorow
i plan on doing some more bleeding and see if that helps.
 
Last edited:
good to hear that worked. btw i forgot to tell you to also bleed the "slave" but to give you a heads up this is how i finished bleeding my clutch.

open valve, push clutch slowly all the way down and close valve at bottom, release pedal normally. after 3 pumps refill reservoir


dont do that pump hold and release, that did not work for me
 
FerrariTruck said:
good to hear that worked. btw i forgot to tell you to also bleed the "slave" but to give you a heads up this is how i finished bleeding my clutch.

open valve, push clutch slowly all the way down and close valve at bottom, release pedal normally. after 3 pumps refill reservoir


dont do that pump hold and release, that did not work for me
Click to expand...

Cool, well i bled the slave four times and took it for a drive. First impression
was the pedal released higher than usual so i was very happy :congrats:
However, as i started driving further down the road the pedal slowly started
to resume it's regular release about 2 inches off the floor.. :(

Anyways, I think it's weird that i'm having a hard time shifting :dontknow:
Seems that the clutch is still not releasing properly. When i bled the
slave i didn't see any air bubbles come out :dontknow: But anything over
3k and i really have to force it into a gear rather than just push it.. Maybe
i just need to shutup and drive it for a couple hundred miles before i mess
with it more.... :marchmellow:
 
only 4 times? sometimes thats good enought but I about 12 pumps on the slave. The fact that you cant shift it over 3k shows that something is up and their is still air in it. How does the pedal feel? does it get firm when you disengage the clutch half way down?
 
FerrariTruck said:
only 4 times? sometimes thats good enought but I about 12 pumps on the slave. The fact that you cant shift it over 3k shows that something is up and their is still air in it. How does the pedal feel? does it get firm when you disengage the clutch half way down?
Click to expand...

Well, if by firm you mean not completely mushy i would say the pedal
is really firm throughout the entire movement.. :dontknow:

After bleeding the slave about four times the pedal felt firm
throughout the entire movement maybe a little bit soft but definitely not
bad and it was disengaging at the right height. But after driving for a bit
the pedal becomes firmer about half-way to the floor, the top half doesn't
feel quite as firm as the bottom half..:dontknow: It's a bit difficult to explain :D
But if i bled the master cylinder and the mesh tube can i indefintely
say the slave is the problem? or do i need to bleed the mesh
tube again? or is it something more trivial?

Thanks,

Andrew
 
Sharpimage said:
Well, if by firm you mean not completely mushy i would say the pedal
is really firm throughout the entire movement.. :dontknow:

After bleeding the slave about four times the pedal felt firm
throughout the entire movement maybe a little bit soft but definitely not
bad and it was disengaging at the right height. But after driving for a bit
the pedal becomes firmer about half-way to the floor, the top half doesn't
feel quite as firm as the bottom half..:dontknow: It's a bit difficult to explain :D
But if i bled the master cylinder and the mesh tube can i indefintely
say the slave is the problem? or do i need to bleed the mesh
tube again? or is it something more trivial?

Thanks,

Andrew
Click to expand...

well i dont think there is anything faulty just air in the system. it maybe a possibilty that a small bleed hole in the master cyl is restricted there for not letting the fluid travel back into the reservoir when you release the pedal. this could be causing the clutch to stay partially disengaged till it finally bleeeds off. but before anything and believe me i spent quite a few hours getting familiar with this lets bleed everything again.

let me go take some pics of how i did it and do a small write up.
 
Where did you mount the reservior?, it should be the highest part of the system with no loops so the air will migrate up. I wouldn't take any lines apart to bleed the system because as soon as you break into the system air gets in and you will have to start all over again. Just bleed it at the bleeder valve about 20 times and call it done!
 
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