Always something I F***ing swear!!!!!!!!!!!
Truck just died.
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
Begood
Full Access Member
:thefinger: :thefinger: :thefinger:Turtle said:
I think that is suppose to read "meant"
Bill.
FerrariTruck
Full Access Member
To see if the sensor is the fault, I would swap it to the other bank. I'm not 100% sure but if the pig tails are same length you are good to go. This would help you determine if it indeed is a component or circuit issue. First though check all your fuses and make sure that the one that supplies voltage to the o2 heaters is not blown
FerrariTruck said:
Would the O2 heater have anything to do with the truck leaning out? Or do I have 2 separate problems?
FlyingLow said:
Take one thing at a time and start eliminating the possibilities. Like Bone said, you can use a scan tool like THIS to verify if it is getting some reading or nothing from the heater circuit voltage. It might require something a little more sophisticated like a DRBIII or OTC tool. Is you A/F meter sensor on the same side as the O2 sensor the code is for? That could be one explanation why it is reading lean. You could have one bank (left) that is lean, while the other is normal. Once you have correct the code and that is not the problem, then move on to the next possibility.
-Muzzy
FerrariTruck
Full Access Member
FlyingLow said:
I wanna say no, the purpose of the heater in the o2 sensor is to get the sensor and read accurately from start up. After the engine runs a while the o2 stays warm. But I can say for sure because I cant remember if the power source for reading o2 and for powering the heater come from the same fuse. If they are then it is possible that a faulty heater element in the o2 sensor could be causing some unnecessary amperage draw that would influence incorrect readings for the o2 reading. But I cant remember if the 5v signal for the o2 and heater are in the same circuit
amtrucker22
Active Member
I think I have an extra tps if you want to try it. I can dig it up in the garage and take it to work tomorrow if you would like smoke.
amtrucker22 said:
Let me know if you find it. I'm not flying today but I have to write the schedule. I plan on not flying tomorrow so I can try and figure this out. I think I might have to take it to the dealer as I really don't know what I'm doing. I could change the TPS out as I think it is simple but to start checking voltage, I just don't have the tools, plus it is something I have never done.
BTW the phone works great. Thanks. :rock: The outside temp is not working but the phone itself is. I also finally got my BOC. 6 measuring tapes, 1 dual plug for an MP3 player so 2 people can listen to the same thing and 1 Ipod pillow.
Smoke
Marty Emailed me this morning and seems to think it is the fuel pump.
amtrucker22
Active Member
Couldn't find it this morning but I think I know where it is now. I can look tonight if you want. I almost positive it is a 2 screw change out. Should take all of 2 minutes.FlyingLow said:
Hate it for you if it is the fuel pump
Venom Power
Full Access Member
Don't feel so bad Scott, I incapacitated #1900 yesterday.. I took off all her spark plug wires, tore out the entire air box assembly, removed her valve covers, removed all her plugs and drained her oil... Needless to say she'll be down and out for the count for six weeks until I get back to install Justin's goodies..
amtrucker22 said:Couldn't find it this morning but I think I know where it is now. I can look tonight if you want. I almost positive it is a 2 screw change out. Should take all of 2 minutes.
Hate it for you if it is the fuel pump
Not sure how I can tell if it is the TPS or fuel pump. :dontknow:
I think I have to take it to the dealer. Between the possible fuel pump, TPS and this O2 sensor deal I just don't have the time to trouble shoot for a week. My truck is my DD.
breederofkoi
Full Access Member
Smoke, be careful if your start screwing with the TPS sensor, they usually need to be adjusted when installing or replacing, you'll probably find the mounting holes in the sensor elongated, that is so you can twist the sensor back and forth to adjust it (set it up intitially).
breederofkoi
Full Access Member
If you think its the fuel pump, hook a guage to the test port on you fuel rail and see what the pressure is. Probably should be around 40-50psi for fuel injection, but I'm not sure on exact spec, you'd have to consult with someone that has a service manual, the info should be in there. Actually, the info for adjusting the TPS should be in there too.
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
58 psi +/- 2 psi
58 psi +/- 2 psi
mr. anderson
Full Access Member
most tps systems are 0-5V and you should be able to read the voltage change as you move the throttle even with the truck off with the key in the ignition position but not on. you would just have to find the two wires that this comes off of and read it with a multimeter.
as for the 02's sensors, the truck should run in a open loop at start up and not even read the sensors until warmed up. this would also mean that it's only input would be from the throttle position sensor and RPM.
I would also check the fuel pressure, if you have aftermarket boost pumps. the pressure is 60 PSI nominal(idle)-90PSI.(max rpm)
it really does sound like a fuel pump especially if it idles fine.
as for the 02's sensors, the truck should run in a open loop at start up and not even read the sensors until warmed up. this would also mean that it's only input would be from the throttle position sensor and RPM.
I would also check the fuel pressure, if you have aftermarket boost pumps. the pressure is 60 PSI nominal(idle)-90PSI.(max rpm)
it really does sound like a fuel pump especially if it idles fine.
belgiumbarry
Full Access Member
interesting problem... i can't help here , sorry, but this made me think :
i installed a A/F wideband gauge in the Porsche 928 and read instructions : to have accurate readings the sensor must be heated. Now that heating may not be done without engine running , so the unit waits for 13.5V to start the heating... which means in other words engine MUST be running ,seeing 13.5 volts produced by the alternator. On the gauge one can start the heating manual IF there's no alternator producing 13.5 volts or it's even possible to put a number on the volts to start heating ! but, ok, that's only a gauge.
If our system works that way ..... ??? alternator dead, no 13.5 volts, no heating , false O2 reading...PCM wrong ... or is this possible problem bypassed by a default setting ... ???????????
i installed a A/F wideband gauge in the Porsche 928 and read instructions : to have accurate readings the sensor must be heated. Now that heating may not be done without engine running , so the unit waits for 13.5V to start the heating... which means in other words engine MUST be running ,seeing 13.5 volts produced by the alternator. On the gauge one can start the heating manual IF there's no alternator producing 13.5 volts or it's even possible to put a number on the volts to start heating ! but, ok, that's only a gauge.
If our system works that way ..... ??? alternator dead, no 13.5 volts, no heating , false O2 reading...PCM wrong ... or is this possible problem bypassed by a default setting ... ???????????
mr. anderson
Full Access Member
also the pins on the TPS you would want to read would be pin 1 and 2. Minimum voltage(idle) .8VDC and maximum(WOT) would be 4.5 VDC.
the pins are a blue wire (pin 1) on the TPS and a brown wire with a orange strip (pin 2). I just checked mine. voltage range was .85VDC to 4.43VDC
the pins are a blue wire (pin 1) on the TPS and a brown wire with a orange strip (pin 2). I just checked mine. voltage range was .85VDC to 4.43VDC
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