nycstev
Full Access Member
TREKER said:
Was on the dyno today and .......
- Thread starter yellowfever#154
- Start date
Sorry to hear this I know your pain:argh: :argh:
I know your pain:argh: :argh:moparracing
Full Access Member
first of all, haulin's truck had 30k+ miles on his '04 & he rode it hard.......Carlwalski said:Sorry to hear that, that is no good. This is the first I've seen and heard of these motors blowing up, though I am newish to the site. Is it SC and turbo cars only who have to worry or do bolt on guys need to take note and upgrade/bulletproof as well?
secondly, with your mods, you're only makin' ~450hp @ the rear wheels.....
moparracing said:
Carl said "around 560-570hp at the flywheel"...that would be roughly 450 at the rear wheels..
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
Thought about my situation for most of the day. I had someone offer to buy the ROE from me and I am considering it. Take the cash from the ROE and get some of the pieces to forge the motor. Then put the stock parts back onto it and save up for Justin's turbo. Maybe this winter send it down to him and have it done right. It will be the strongest stock engine for a while, but a hell of a starting point for some major mods.
Pretty solid plan...but do your homework...once the engine is pulled apart...do everything you can to build a brick shit house...then go with the power adders...and going to Justin is always a good decision.
bmako
Full Access Member
dyno testing question
I am scheduled to have some simple mods headers, exhaust, cai and am a little apprehensive about dynoing it after all these stories. Should I pass on the dyno? really need your expert opinions. I dont need a blown engine.
:dontknow: :dontknow:
I am scheduled to have some simple mods headers, exhaust, cai and am a little apprehensive about dynoing it after all these stories. Should I pass on the dyno? really need your expert opinions. I dont need a blown engine.
:dontknow: :dontknow:
I guess (that) I was very fortunate....
I ran 700 at the flywheel (with a Paxton) and stock internals.... never went kablooey.... But I sold my truck at about 12,000 miles if memory serves..... Don't know if it was low miles or what.....:dontknow:
I'd always heard that 600rwhp was the limit for stock lower end.... I stopped building more ponies at 595........ (Thanks to Mike Brady and Silverback for keeping me down....)
D
I ran 700 at the flywheel (with a Paxton) and stock internals.... never went kablooey.... But I sold my truck at about 12,000 miles if memory serves..... Don't know if it was low miles or what.....:dontknow:
I'd always heard that 600rwhp was the limit for stock lower end.... I stopped building more ponies at 595........ (Thanks to Mike Brady and Silverback for keeping me down....)
D
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
Prof said:
Good advise and kinda is the plan. We need now to inform all members that they need to forge it first and then add the power. Im thinkin Im gonna take my time and build it right. Did you do your own build or someone do it for you?
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
bmako said:
Dynos are tough on stuff. This is my 2nd experience blowing engines on the dyno. The first was a stroked 401 AMC engine, Chevy H-beam rods, custom Ross pistons, Indy aluminum heads and intake, custom Comp cam, etc. About a $20,000 build and it ate the cam lobes off it and wrecked pretty much everything. The advantage to the dyno if something fails is that your not stranded somewhere when it does come apart.
bmako said:
If you are not tuning then don't worry about it. Doing 3 runs to see what your HP/TRQ are, is not the problem. It's doing 20 runs and trying to adjust the A/F to squeeze out HP.
bmako
Full Access Member
whos responsilble if something goes while dynoing it. I guess i know the answer lol
To bad about your truck. I bought a Roe SC but I'm also going with forged rods,pushrods and pistons. And I'm still not totally happy with all my parts and will only drive it a year or so and then go back inside and make myself totally happy.
yellowfever#154 said:
I had it built by a man who works at chrysler, and has worked for Arrow Racing...he does engines in his garage...one at a time...turn around is about 6 weeks. But he did everything possible to the bottom end.
bmako said:
Only a very few here have blown while on the dyno...and almost all had an issue that caused it...the dyno is your friend...it is for tuning to keep your engine together...my truck spent 5+ hours on the dyno getting tuned right...not counting the hours I wasted with another tuner that abandoned me while I was on the dyno...
The guys who had a bad experience on the dyno are more likely to post causing an illusion that it is unsafe....I have no facts to back this but I bet for every blown engine while dynoing 30 others get a tune that prevents blowing the engine..JMHO of course..
HV SRT said:
How rude........TMI mate lol Sorry, couldn't help it........ 
Roe Racing
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I didn't read the entire thread, but sorry to hear about the engine.
Assuming it wasn't a tuning issue (I did see the post about the software question, which led me to find this thread), using a larger pulley will lower the boost, reducing the stress on the weak parts of the engine.
Won't make as much power, but....
Regards,
Sean
PS, in regard to dyno's and tuning, maybe I'm careful or maybe I'm lucky, but I've never lost, damaged or hurt a motor on a dyno. You have a lot of things going on at once. Takes time and experience to get it right. Not every pull is or should be a full redline RPM pull (which is where things happen very fast and could bite you if you don't have everything leading up to that point correct). I've done literally thousands of pulls on hundreds of Vipers and Rams over the years.
Assuming it wasn't a tuning issue (I did see the post about the software question, which led me to find this thread), using a larger pulley will lower the boost, reducing the stress on the weak parts of the engine.
Won't make as much power, but....
Regards,
Sean
PS, in regard to dyno's and tuning, maybe I'm careful or maybe I'm lucky, but I've never lost, damaged or hurt a motor on a dyno. You have a lot of things going on at once. Takes time and experience to get it right. Not every pull is or should be a full redline RPM pull (which is where things happen very fast and could bite you if you don't have everything leading up to that point correct). I've done literally thousands of pulls on hundreds of Vipers and Rams over the years.
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moparracing
Full Access Member
do you have forged internals ?:dontknow:TNVIPER said:Only a very few here have blown while on the dyno...and almost all had an issue that caused it...the dyno is your friend...it is for tuning to keep your engine together...my truck spent 5+ hours on the dyno getting tuned right...not counting the hours I wasted with another tuner that abandoned me while I was on the dyno...
The guys who had a bad experience on the dyno are more likely to post causing an illusion that it is unsafe....I have no facts to back this but I bet for every blown engine while dynoing 30 others get a tune that prevents blowing the engine..JMHO of course..
if not, you're living on borrowed time.......
you'll have to change your avatar to "real men get blown up".....
i saw that.......TNVIPER said:Carl said "around 560-570hp at the flywheel"...that would be roughly 450 at the rear wheels..
my point being that stating a guess on modifications "@ the flywheel" would be better dynoing @ the rear wheels since that's the only semi-accurate way to do it @ this point.......
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dam man well GL on the build.
moparracing said:do you have forged internals ?:dontknow:
if not, you're living on borrowed time.......
you'll have to change your avatar to "real men get blown up".....
Forged pistons & rods....and a few other upgrades...:marchmellow:
i saw that.......
my point being that stating a guess on modifications "@ the flywheel" would be better dynoing @ the rear wheels since that's the only semi-accurate way to do it @ this point.......
Huh?..:dontknow:
......
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