Its rare that a Rod randomly lets go in these engines; more likely a piston-ring land let go, the piston jammed in the cylinder and that 97-pound crank just wanted to keep turning and snapped a Rod.
If the crank can still go round and round in the block, once the Pistons and Rods are all out, your engine is rebuildable.
The Block and Crank are your (2) biggest things to salvage and generally are not a tough thing to repair. Pistons and Rods won’t be reused and it sounds like you are also interested in a new camshaft. If not, have a good look at the factory one for damage.
A 13,000-kilometer shipping bill (one-way) from New Zee to Florida won’t be cheap. Some shops don’t consider an engine with a hole in the block a donor and a hefty core-charge may be added to the bill.
Personally, I would source local machine shops in your area for the repairs. New connecting rods (forged), a new set of forged pistons, rings and bearings and you’re mostly back in business. Well, balancing will also be required at the machine shop. They can also check for any cylinder-liner recess and machine that out as well. ALL of this stuff and machining can be sourced locally (according to a quick Google Search).
As there was damage to the block I’d take the opportunity to upgrade from the wimpy main caps to Program Caps as your block should be checked and/or align-honed anyway.
Heads: Where the power is made. If you have a shop you like, you can have yours checked for bent valve(s), compromised valve guides and such. IF it was a piston that let go, shrapnel has been known to jump from cylinder to cylinder and raise some hell.
Head Porting works for more power, IF the person doing it knows what they are doing. The Gen III heads are a PERFORMANCE HEAD and are a decent piece as they are. Yes they can be improved somewhat, but there is only so much material that can be removed which limits their increased power potential.
After they are re-worked, a Cam can be ground based on their performance changes. And appropriate springs and retainers can be chosen. I’d still use the o.e.m. lifters (cam followers) as they are the best design, overall. Prior to removing them, there is a mark on the top of the lifter body. Take note of that orientation when they are removed and replace them the same way, as it is important for them to receive the proper lubrication. It is easy enough to miss this and reinstall them 180 degrees instead; and that would be bad.
Pushrods can be swapped with something stronger. You can save money on most gaskets as many are reusable. The exception being Head and Exhaust Manifold gaskets. The new(er) design Head Gaskets from Dodge will give you 10.5:1 which is a nice bump in compression.
Like I tell everyone: The Gen III engine (yours) requires the oil pan to be removed and the oil pan pickup tube to be removed prior to removing the timing-chain cover.
You will need to thoroughly look around inside your engine for ALL damages and debris.
Good Luck!
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