2005 QC Transmission Slipping

[Gill]

Hello, I purchased a 05 SRT 10 last month with 30k miles. It was in pretty good condition. Seller mentioned he did maintenance on it, but me being a little ocd decided to do all of the maintenance for personal peace. Luckily have a buddy who likes to work on engines, he helped me do the work. The transmission pan seemed to be leaking (really hoping it wasn't rear main seal) so we took off the pan and changed fluids/filter along with a new gasket. The fix came out great, stopped the leak. Got the truck back in about a weeks time (working on it in small intervals) and took it for a run 2 days back.

Everything held up well, but the transmission seemed a little different. It was shifting harder, taking a little longer to change gears, and on the first hard pull slipped out of 2nd gear. I thought it might be a one off but it happened a couple more times. I checked forums and saw there are some sort of bands so we only adjusted the band outside of the pan (didn't want to drop it and go further than we needed to). The shifting is more smoother but did another pull and the 2nd gear is still slipping.

Any thoughts as to what this might be? Atttached is a link to the video, I appreciate it

 

[rottenronnie]

No sound on your video but I saw your tach move.

Make sure your kickdown cable moves as soon as your throttle moves.
This is easily checked under the hood.
If it doesn't, carefully release the white clip (look around near the throttle bracket) then slide the black cable jacket forward or backward until it does move with the throttle then lock the cable again with the white clip. The inside silver cable HAS TO MOVE as soon as your throttle does.

The next check is pull the trans dipstick and smell it compared to brand new fluid (buy a quart of ATF+4 for this). I know ATF+4 stinks even when new, but compare the smells.

IF your truck's tranny fluid smells a bit like burnt toast, that means the bands and or clutches inside your 48RE are done.

Don't waste your time and money at this point thinking a filter, fluid change and band adjustment will fix it. I guarantee it will NOT.

 

[AMS3]

No sound on your video but I saw your tach move.

Make sure your kickdown cable moves as soon as your throttle moves.
This is easily checked under the hood.
If it doesn't, carefully release the white clip (look around near the throttle bracket) then slide the black cable jacket forward or backward until it does move with the throttle then lock the cable again with the white clip. The inside silver cable HAS TO MOVE as soon as your throttle does.

The next check is pull the trans dipstick and smell it compared to brand new fluid (buy a quart of ATF+4 for this). I know ATF+4 stinks even when new, but compare the smells.

IF your truck's tranny fluid smells a bit like burnt toast, that means the bands and or clutches inside your 48RE are done.

Don't waste your time and money at this point thinking a filter, fluid change and band adjustment will fix it. I guarantee it will NOT.

Toast at 30K miles? Either the tranny is a lemon, or a previous owner dogged the crap out of it. I've got 77K on mine, works like a champ. Dam, if it's a bad tranny, I hate it for Gill I believe X2 Builders may have one or two for sale.

 

[rottenronnie]

I'm not sure what Gill has for mods and/or how the truck is used.

The 48RE works "just fine" behind a stock or very nearly stock engine.

Once the "Torque Management" is removed coupled with a good tune, that "failing transmission danger zone" looms considerably closer.

The stock tune and transmission programming leaves a lot of performance on the table and for a good reason: So the 48RE will (hopefully) make it through the warranty period.

After swapping heads and the cam, mine lasted a VERY short time (like TWO wide open throttle runs up to the speed limit, of course ).

I wasn't really expecting it to ignore the additional 200 horsepower but their design limit doesn't have nearly that much of a cushion.

 

[rottenronnie]

Oh, and IF the engine has been modified or is about to be modified (beyond headers and a hot-air intake, I mean), don't buy another new or used stock 48RE because it won't last either.

 

[Gill]

So far I have just installed a K&N CAI, everything else is stock. Took it a nearby shop, the tech took it for a spin and mentioned same thing you stated earlier. The cables were too tight, and he said the tranny was flaring not slipping. He asked me to drop the tranny and replace the valve body, but I just took a rough estimate and left. If adjusting the cables and foot off the gas can get me by for a bit i'll stick with the good looks for now

Ronnie, after your mods what setup are you running? I'm really looking into the T56 conversion

 

[Srt10650]

Hello, I purchased a 05 SRT 10 last month with 30k miles. It was in pretty good condition. Seller mentioned he did maintenance on it, but me being a little ocd decided to do all of the maintenance for personal peace. Luckily have a buddy who likes to work on engines, he helped me do the work. The transmission pan seemed to be leaking (really hoping it wasn't rear main seal) so we took off the pan and changed fluids/filter along with a new gasket. The fix came out great, stopped the leak. Got the truck back in about a weeks time (working on it in small intervals) and took it for a run 2 days back.

Everything held up well, but the transmission seemed a little different. It was shifting harder, taking a little longer to change gears, and on the first hard pull slipped out of 2nd gear. I thought it might be a one off but it happened a couple more times. I checked forums and saw there are some sort of bands so we only adjusted the band outside of the pan (didn't want to drop it and go further than we needed to). The shifting is more smoother but did another pull and the 2nd gear is still slipping.

Any thoughts as to what this might be? Atttached is a link to the video, I appreciate it

He dropped the transmission pan and what did he replace? Just the filter? If that’s it, than that’s not enough. He should of adjusted both front/rear band, replaced the filter, replaced the governor pressure sensor with a Borg Warner(or even a stock one at least), and a replaced the transducer. It’s just peace of mind and cheap insurance. I do that to all the trucks I do. Once that’s done, new transmission pan gasket or rtv, and torque the pan bolts. New fluids and should be good to go. And maybe a slight adjustment on on the kick down cable. At 30k, I don’t think your transmission is junk. Unless it’s been really abused.

 

[Gill]

He dropped the transmission pan and what did he replace? Just the filter? If that’s it, than that’s not enough. He should of adjusted both front/rear band, replaced the filter, replaced the governor pressure sensor with a Borg Warner(or even a stock one at least), and a replaced the transducer. It’s just peace of mind and cheap insurance. I do that to all the trucks I do. Once that’s done, new transmission pan gasket or rtv, and torque the pan bolts. New fluids and should be good to go. And maybe a slight adjustment on on the kick down cable. At 30k, I don’t think your transmission is junk. Unless it’s been really abused.

He just replaced the filter and gasket, topped off with fluids. Should we take it apart and re do? Or just adjust the cable at this point

 

[rottenronnie]

Hi Gil:

I went with a 1500 HP (oddly not torque-rated) build the high-powered heavily modified diesel guys use. It is the same transmission.

 

[Gill]

Hi Gil:

I went with a 1500 HP (oddly not torque-rated) build the high-powered heavily modified diesel guys use. It is the same transmission.

Gotcha, if you don't mind me asking what did that run you? I might get a tune but that might be on hold till I can get this tranny issue handled

 

[rottenronnie]

Gill:

Normally what happens when they fail is because the band material peels and chokes the very small and very fine screens in the Governors and no amount of fluid and/or filter changes or band adjustments will fix that. That material chokes and starves the transmission from getting proper lubrication and kills it.

The gold-can transducer from a '99 Dodge diesel is a good unit as are the GM Solenoids with the larger screens (from the 4L80E transmission). There is interference on the GM Solenoid "kits" however as the bracket hits the 48RE valve body and can cause internal sealing issues. Tell your tranny guy to watch for that one.

Also, DEX VI (GM fluid) works very well in the 48RE (and doesn't stink) .

I'd also recommend ditching the factory converter and get a good one in the 26-2800 rpm range. BIG difference in general performance.

Or just get a T-56...

 

[rottenronnie]

Technically, it's a lubrication/pressure issue (as in lack of holding pressure) that causes slippage and destruction.

Good luck.

 

[Gill]

Technically, it's a lubrication/pressure issue (as in lack of holding pressure) that causes slippage and destruction.

Good luck.

Thank you for the help, greatly appreciated! I will first try the cables (too hot currently) and see if that doesn't solve the issue. If not, then move onto the T56.

 

[rottenronnie]

I'm in Canada where prices are higher so a price may be irrelevant. I'm not sure where you are or what you have access to.

It's knowing where and what to replace and mine was a custom rebuild including oiling mods to the Overdrive section. If I had to do it again I'd likely talk to the guys in the diesel shop that KNOW the Dodges and buy one of their "built" 48RE s with a warranty.


You can go online and get an idea what a built 48RE (exchange) goes for.

 

[rottenronnie]

The cable adjustment is up top near the throttle body.

 

[Srt10650]

He just replaced the filter and gasket, topped off with fluids. Should we take it apart and re do? Or just adjust the cable at this point

I would recommend you do it. I don’t think the cable will fix your issue.

 

[Gill]

I'm in Canada where prices are higher so a price may be irrelevant. I'm not sure where you are or what you have access to.

It's knowing where and what to replace and mine was a custom rebuild including oiling mods to the Overdrive section. If I had to do it again I'd likely talk to the guys in the diesel shop that KNOW the Dodges and buy one of their "built" 48RE s with a warranty.


You can go online and get an idea what a built 48RE (exchange) goes for.

I live in Northern California. I will definitely go around and try to get more information before trying the conversion route. That would a another pain in getting necessary parts. If retooling this one can get the job tune easier for me. Is yours still 4 speed?

 

[rottenronnie]

I just re-read some of your info.

IF the cable is too tight it will delay the part-throttle shift then shift "harder than normal" when it finally does. If its too loose, line-pressure will drop and your shifts will slip and slide.

"The transmission is flaring, not slipping". Hmmmm- Actually the transmission IS slipping, it's the engine that's "flaring" during the shift because the transmission is no longer propelling the truck forward even under slight engine load.

 

[Gill]

I would recommend you do it. I don’t think the cable will fix your issue.

Any info on where to get those parts?

 

[rottenronnie]

Yes the 48RE is still a 4 speed (with Overdrive considered 4th).
Some call it a 5 speed as when the torque converter locks and drops a few hundred rpm, it could be considered fifth "gear".