48re solenoid upgrade update

[gunu]

yes i agree just got my 05 qc back from dealer and the 1-2 1-2 1-2 problem was the solenoid. and a year ago was the same but this time they changed the torque converter also.

 

[blackviper]

Great write ups.

 

[WOT]

My only issue with the 1-2-1-2-1-2 is that after the dealer rebuilt my tranny and replaced the govenor solenoid, it still did it. I took it back and the dealer replaced the valve body, and it still did it. I then replaced the valvebody with Dusty's unit AND replaced the solenoid again, and it still does it.

So, I'm thinking that in '06, the software is too close to right on the edge of the 1-2 shift. So I am trying a bunch of different things to see what makes these trannies tick....

 

[WOT]

Arrrggggghhhh! So, after methodically trying just about every different parameter that I could think of to alter the various tables that might possibly affect the part throttle shifting, trying different combinations of different values, writing the tunes and then trying each one on my truck (a very time consuming process), I finally call SCT and ask them just what the hell is going on with these values (I'm using the Pro Racer pacakage). Because, it seems like no matter what I change, it has no affect whatsoever on the part throttle shifting behavior.

After a long conversation back and forth with tech support they finally disclose that while all the parameters that Chrylser uses in the computer are available to be changed in the SCT programming software, not all of the values are actually being written over in the tune. So, out of the 800 some odd values, the software may be just ignoring some of my changes even though it shows the changes on my screen. I asked him if he could tell me which values, scalars, and tables I can change that will actually get written, and he says that nobody at SCT has really been keeping track. But he is positive that only a couple of the transmission parameters are actually being written at all. What a bunch of F'-ups. So now, it looks like I am going to have build some sort of analog device to fix this issue. What a bunch of time wasting morons....

 

[WOT]

oops, duplicate post

 

[kickinassrt-10]

I feel your pain....I had a Hypertech III for my Ford diesel and it said top speed to match tires so I set it to 118 MPH and I my computer in the truck would never write it, although the tuner showed it was written...

 

[pokeytemplar]

Well if you can fix the 1-2-1-2 hunting problem then every 46,47, and 48re owner would want it. I have the same thing happen with my 46 from time to time.

 

[kickinassrt-10]

Well if you can fix the 1-2-1-2 hunting problem then every 46,47, and 48re owner would want it. I have the same thing happen with my 46 from time to time.

do some research first...if everything is ok then give it a try and keep us updated!

 

[WOT]

I haven't had time rig up a volt meter on my wiring harness yet to see just what the govenor signal looks like, so I haven't made any progress on building my analog fix yet.

But on another front, I did play with the spark timing in the software. What a difference in drivability! The truck has more power everywhere. I completely remapped the timing curve and then changed the parameters around timing retard vs temperature. The factory tune would actually make the motor ping a little when the truck was hot and the air was cold outside. After my changes, the truck is faster, more drivable, less temperature sensitive, does not even hint at pinging, and the highway mileage went up about .5 mpg. I think Dusty's valve body has the line pressure on the tranny cranked way up -- that kinda' hurts your highway mileage some. It looks like I got most of it back by adding part throttle timing.


The factory tune is pretty wacky. I don't think the Chrysler engineers actually spent much time going through it all. Unless, hmmmm......now that I think about it, it looks like all their wierd timing curves are designed to reduce cylinder pressure at low to medium throttle. The main reason you would want to do this is to reduce NOx emissions. This would specifically be required to pass the EPA certification city cycle test. The other way to reduce NOx formation is to enable EGR, but our trucks don't have an EGR valve. That's probably why they have such performance-poor timing curves built into them. It was likely a necessary evil to obtain emission certification. Well, I guess now I'm ridin' dirty....

 

[kickinassrt-10]

Hey it's not like we bought these truck to be tree huggers anyways....

 

[gunu]

yes i agree we all drive hybrids that burn gas and rubber ,so its a good thing im in the oil field business !!!! oh and by the way guys im so pumped because i now hold the title to my black beast !!!!!!!!

 

[bigike]

Well if you can fix the 1-2-1-2 hunting problem then every 46,47, and 48re owner would want it. I have the same thing happen with my 46 from time to time.

I never had that problem on the BELOVED after we rebuilt the transmission. Servo blocker, 4.2 lever. Prior to the transmission failing it had the problem pretty bad. Of course to get over that issue you just tip into the throttle a bit more.

 

[SANTEEN]

I'm about to buy an 06 SRT 10 QC. THe GM solenoid seems like a good preventative maintenance item. Where do we get them? Is there a specific part number? Thanks

 

[SANTEEN]

If all goes well, I'll be driving up to Georgia this weekend to pick up a 2006 QC. This GM solenoid sounds like a good preventative maintenance item. Where do we get one? Is there a specific part number? Thanks

 

[WOT]

PATC transmission sells the conversion kit.

http://www.transmissioncenter.org/new_patc_products.htm

A little less than 1/2 way down on the page (use the scroll bar).

 

[SANTEEN]

Thanks WOT. Now it looks fairly easy. What's involved? Bolt on? Do I need to drop the pan? If so, I guess I should replace the filter also. And, is this a good preventative maintenance item? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[kickinassrt-10]

If all goes well, I'll be driving up to Georgia this weekend to pick up a 2006 QC. This GM solenoid sounds like a good preventative maintenance item. Where do we get one? Is there a specific part number? Thanks

hey bro you're local...go to this guy who did mine...he has a kick ass state of the art shop and he'll have your tranny always running like day 1... (954)916-1155 talk to Jason

 

[SANTEEN]

Thanks. I'll probably do that. One less thing for me to screw up.

 

[WOT]

Thanks WOT. Now it looks fairly easy. What's involved? Bolt on? Do I need to drop the pan? If so, I guess I should replace the filter also. And, is this a good preventative maintenance item? Thanks in advance for your help.

Drop the pan, drain the fluid (and it will keep dripping forever), then unbolt the bracket that holds on the solenoid and the pressure transducer and the aluminum block that they mount in (it's all comes off at once), then you put on the adapter bracket with new GM solenoid, and make sure you put on a new pressure transducer as well as this is part of the problem. Plug in the wiring harness, bolt it all back together and you are done. Put the pan back on, but do not over-torque the pan bolts. Fill with 4-5 quarts of fluid (depending on how long you had the pan off. Incidently, when you drop the pan, around 4 quarts of fluid drains out. If you leave the pan off for about 2 days, another 4 quarts or so will slowly drip out. It's really kinda annoying, as you never really know how much fluid actually drained. You just have to add a quart and check the dipstip, add a quart and check the dipstick, lather rinse repeat, lol.

Let us know how it works out.

 

[SANTEEN]

Drop the pan, drain the fluid (and it will keep dripping forever), then unbolt the bracket that holds on the solenoid and the pressure transducer and the aluminum block that they mount in (it's all comes off at once), then you put on the adapter bracket with new GM solenoid, and make sure you put on a new pressure transducer as well as this is part of the problem. Plug in the wiring harness, bolt it all back together and you are done. Put the pan back on, but do not over-torque the pan bolts. Fill with 4-5 quarts of fluid (depending on how long you had the pan off. Incidently, when you drop the pan, around 4 quarts of fluid drains out. If you leave the pan off for about 2 days, another 4 quarts or so will slowly drip out. It's really kinda annoying, as you never really know how much fluid actually drained. You just have to add a quart and check the dipstip, add a quart and check the dipstick, lather rinse repeat, lol.

Let us know how it works out.

Thanks again for the response. Do I get the pressure tranducer for dodge or GM? And again, is this a good preventative maintenance item, or should I just wait until I start having symptons?