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Any Questions?
- Thread starter rottenronnie
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The Banners! Now we can get caught up 
https://www.vtcoa.com/search/43721612/?q=Banner&o=date&c[node]=7
https://www.vtcoa.com/search/43721612/?q=Banner&o=date&c[node]=7
That may cause them to have more problems than I want to deal with right now .. But maybe my killer Boog will do a sneak attack and keep chasing them in the house .. Don’t let her looks fool you . She has the power of a supercharged,nitrous injected 8.3 liter SRT 10 Black the fastest color and quad cabTriple Dog Dare ya!!!
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Wicked looking! I love her!
She has all white whiskers on one-side and all black on the other side .. she lover her little boom box shes caring .and Halloween is coming and she does a great Halloween cat impression
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Uhhh ohhhh this thread is getting ho'd up
I read the article on the trucks Wifey posted the other day ..
It was saying that the single cab and the quad cab leaf springs were located differently on the axle .. one on top the other on the bottom .. and the single cab sat lower than the QC’s due to this .. Question being can you just move the QC springs to where the single springs are and lower the rear ? Or does it take special or extra parts .. No caltracs used .
It was saying that the single cab and the quad cab leaf springs were located differently on the axle .. one on top the other on the bottom .. and the single cab sat lower than the QC’s due to this .. Question being can you just move the QC springs to where the single springs are and lower the rear ? Or does it take special or extra parts .. No caltracs used .
Ok ,, let’s keep this one on track now . But Ho up all the others
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Okay then we can come back to this one in true ho fashionOk ,, let’s keep this one on track now . But Ho up all the others
Deal !Okay then we can come back to this one in true ho fashion
Ronnie .. what’s your thoughts on using some sort of ram air set up on the 10’s ? Be it the Volant or fabricated . If fabricated the best locations for the best results on the trucks . Over the years there have been different opinions along with several set ups and the Volant used . Are the results of any worth while on these Trucks or any gains in power ???? My opinion of the factory air intake is more to assist in removing some heat from the engine compartment and heat from the engine compartment is being pulled into the engine !
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This is a vid I watched about the brake line clamp .. I still haven’t looked into on my truck yet . Not even to see if it has the same clamp for the brake house or any other place that could possibly cause a restriction . If anyone is or has looked at the brake lines do ours have this clamp or other clamps like this ???
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Years ago, I taped some pieces of ribbon near the opening of our o.e.m. hood scoop. Many of them pointed frontwards due to the boundary layer effect, when driving at highway speeds or above.
As you mentioned, the o.e.m. scoop works for bailing heat from the engine bay.
Take a look at NHRA Pro Stock over the years. Properly designed hood scoops work at high vehicle speeds BUT also penalize aerodynamics. It seems to be a wash. Many modern Pro Stock cars don't seem to use hood mounted scoops at all.
The factory grille opening on our trucks IS in a high pressure area and although it is small, the rest of the system acts as a tank. Grumpy Jenkins used a "small to large" scoop setup that seemed to work well.
I don't believe our grille-scoop (passenger side) provides any kind of pressure increase at the throttle body (by the time the air travels through the torturous route it does), until you are driving near the speed of sound. But at least it provides outside air and not underhood heat like many "cold air" kits.
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Haven’t heard that name in decades , Grump Jenkins hahaha !Years ago, I taped some pieces of ribbon near the opening of our o.e.m. hood scoop. Many of them pointed frontwards due to the boundary layer effect, when driving at highway speeds or above.
As you mentioned, the o.e.m. scoop works for bailing heat from the engine bay.
Take a look at NHRA Pro Stock over the years. Properly designed hood scoops work at high vehicle speeds BUT also penalize aerodynamics. It seems to be a wash. Many modern Pro Stock cars don't seem to use hood mounted scoops at all.
The factory grille opening on our trucks IS in a high pressure area and although it is small, the rest of the system acts as a tank. Grumpy Jenkins used a "small to large" scoop setup that seemed to work well.
I don't believe our grille-scoop provides any kind of pressure increase at the throttle body (by the time the air travels through the torturous route it does), until you are driving near the speed of sound. But at least it provides outside air and not underhood heat like many "cold air" kits.
I seem to remember that it was a couple people looking into the scoops back then .. So the ribbons were you and my guess is the smoke Was Silverback
.. I was looking at the Vipers cold air intake then but don’t think there was space to hook it up . So the conclusion appears to be gaining a little power by getting the heat out of the engine compartment efficiently to help cool the intake air a little as the only real option . The grill air dams and the factory or after market like K&N , volant systems appear to just pull in the engine compartment heat into the intake .. the factory air box IMO is probably the best option with the use of a good filter like a K&N since the factory box is sealed .. The Volant appears to block off the release of heat in engine compartment . And the other aftermarket’s K&N pull all the air from the engine compartment.. wonder if there are clean non cluttering options to remove even more heat from the compartment and gain a few HP from from low to high speed ranges more evenly ?even some add on to cool the fuel mixture like in the old day using a cool can and ice or dry ice . Maybe an inline type of oil cooler for the gas line . Then tune tune the fuel parameters to gain efficiently and even more power with the more dense fuel mixture ..
I know and I’m sure we all know that driving the 10’s in the cooler weather makes a seat of the pants difference in power !
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If you have an unmodified QC, and everything still works as it should, the Air Inlet Temperature Sensor pulls a LOT of ignition timing when the ambient air temp is toasty. That really killed performance and made a major performance difference between hot and cool.days.
Mine has the K&N set up on it and I believe it has the AIT in the tube .. if that’s what I think you’re talking about. something in my head tells me that years back that someone posted some kind of mod or fix to take care of that problem on here .. something with the wires ! Does that sound like something you have heard of ? And would or was it a real benefit to do if so ?
The factory E.C.U. pulls a whopping 8 degrees of timing once the sensor is exposed to 95F.
It is something that can be fixed with a custom tune.
I seem to remember some guys moving the sensor (using longer wires) to a spot immediately behind the outer grille.
BUT pulling that much timing was likely a piston saver if W.O.T. operating conditions weren't ideal. Such as pulling your trailer up a hill into the wind with your QC full of passengers, weight in the box, 100+F air temperature and 'iffy" octane in the "Premium" fuel you bought from a no-name gas station 50 miles back.
The poor Quad Cabs REALLY pick up with a good tune!
It is something that can be fixed with a custom tune.
I seem to remember some guys moving the sensor (using longer wires) to a spot immediately behind the outer grille.
BUT pulling that much timing was likely a piston saver if W.O.T. operating conditions weren't ideal. Such as pulling your trailer up a hill into the wind with your QC full of passengers, weight in the box, 100+F air temperature and 'iffy" octane in the "Premium" fuel you bought from a no-name gas station 50 miles back.
The poor Quad Cabs REALLY pick up with a good tune!
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