engine knock bad!!

also is there any reason why it's hard for my starter to turn the motor over. with a voltmeter at the battery the volts drop from 11.9 to about 7-8 sometimes 9 but when i hook a jumper up it will fire but still takes a while.
 
71dusterjon said:
also is there any reason why it's hard for my starter to turn the motor over. with a voltmeter at the battery the volts drop from 11.9 to about 7-8 sometimes 9 but when i hook a jumper up it will fire but still takes a while.
Click to expand...

get some other folks to chime in, but i'm leanin towards something on top of a piston:( :( :(

not sure on the startin part though:dontknow:

you said "1" gauge battery cable???

or ya mean "1/0"
 
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Not detonation, sounds like valve train noise on one cylinder...
Well at least through my laptop speakers...
 
71dusterjon said:
also is there any reason why it's hard for my starter to turn the motor over. with a voltmeter at the battery the volts drop from 11.9 to about 7-8 sometimes 9 but when i hook a jumper up it will fire but still takes a while.
Click to expand...

Is it uniformly slow or does it have a particularly hard/slow spot?
 
My neighbor had the same problem after doing exhaust manifold gaskets on his 06 Hemi Charger...it turned out to be a leaky gasket. It sounded just like that bro. You say you did exhaust gaskets, so i betting thats it IMO.
 
The iridium plugs are hotter plugs, and they will cause detonation. I went with 2 step colder plugs than the stockers recommended by my tuner. Never had an issue from day one, and I have 65k on the stock bottom end.

NGK - BKR7E11
Part No. 1283
Gap 33
 
Man have you pulled in inspected your spark plugs, you could be hitting one somehow...

Something to check first is while the engine is running pull A plug wire at A time... This will tell you what hole is having the issue, if it is in the rotating assembly the noise will almost stop, if it's in the valve train it will stay the same.

If it stays the same, pull the plug and see it him and the piston have been getting into fights in there......

He said he went to colder plugs..... You wouldn't here detonation at idle anyways, they plugs would need to be WAY HOT to do it with no load.

You pull them wires and you'll at least find your bad hole....

Hey Ronnie good ear, i most need new speakers in my laptop because i could have sworn that it was #3, but after further analysis i concede to the fact that it is #1... can't argue with science.
 
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Fast that sounds like an exhaust leak.... Dusters sounds like a rod knock. I don't think it is because he didn't overrev or run out of oil during his plug change out, he did change the plugs and i'd work backwards from there.

The wires being crossed would cause it to hard start... Could also cause a knock if your firing out of order...

maybe one of those to rear right ones got mixed up on you.
 
pulled valve covers and everything feels tight and nothing bent. I crawled under the truck and it seems like its coming from passenger side but i can't tell if its the engine or clutch. the sound isn't coming from the gears of the tranny because noise is still there when clutch is in.
 
ok well i'll go get the same plugs that were in there before i put these ones in. if my memory serves me right, odd numbers are on driver side while even numbers are on passenger side?

the starter seems to have hard/spots. its not smooth you could say like when you pull the plugs and have no compression.

Exhaust leak was my first thought thinking i didn't tighten every bolt but im sure i have. i dont want to go to tight and strip the threads.

I have pulled every plug out and they all look brand new except for cylinder 10 which had a lot of carbon built up (forgot to plug the coil)

Ill go get new plugs and pull each wire to see if that helps.
 
i dont think there should be concern with the bottom end since i didn't tear into anything mechanical like that.

Right from the beginning when i started the motor on all 12 i got the knocking sound.
 
Only do one wire at a time. You can do it before you buy new plugs. 20 min job if you pull a plug, start engine, check, shut off engine.....and repeat.

again the starting issue can be caused by the wires getting swapped.

Chunk the old plugs back in it.
 
i dont have the old plugs because i thought these plugs would do alright.

Are you saying just pull the wire and see if it changes or pull the plug and see?

So far the engine has been starting better where its more consistent and not stop and go (which i think has to do with the voltage drop-i have battery now using oem cable in the original position so i dont have to worry about the long cable from bed)
 
just pull the wire, you got to leave the plugs in...

Troubleshooting 010 when you change something and then the get an outcome worse than when you started, you simply go backwards and stop when the problem is solved.

When you pull the plug you remove the combustion off that hole, the noise should/could stop with the hole is unloaded. :) Super easy.

If it was the cables, voltage wouldn't be your problem. Its the amp's, the cable may not be able to carry the amp load.
 
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thats what i was thinking that ill need a new bigger cable so that i can keep the battery in the back of the truck.

I have not had any popping through the intake. its just been a consistent knock but i do remember that when i did drive it to gas station the sound would go away at certain ranges of rpm (probably just droned out from s/c and exhaust)
 
no i just took the intake, headers, and valve covers off to paint them. i then rerouted the crankcase vent into the exhaust and changed spark plugs. i haven't unbolted anything else from the motor.

the time difference between the two videos is like 30 seconds.
 
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