full exhaust and 93oct tune results

[Geodriller]

ys sir, that is exactly what im guna do. today im guna:

go back to stock tune

touch cables together

drive untill i get my tune up stuff an wideband

then put his tune back in and go from there

again thanks a million man, you have been very halpful.

 

[viperhauler]

i'll post up details later... but a few grand for 5 tenths is not bad, IMO my previous best at this track was 8.86 with only maggie catback, rear cat delete and k/n intake...

this is full weight, street tires with full pressure...

 

[Geodriller]

i'll post up details later... but a few grand for 5 tenths is not bad, IMO my previous best at this track was 8.86 with only maggie catback, rear cat delete and k/n intake...

this is full weight, street tires with full pressure...

I agree 100%. i took the tune back too stock makin the headers my only tune at the moment, the temp has cooled off considerable and i took the truck out and she ran like a little boy outa hanks house. and she pulled like a train. i know the cooler wather will help but ihave driven my trck when it was colder than this without headers and there is deffinatly a difference. so if i can get the tune dialed in, or figure out what the problem is if it is not that. i think i will be completely satisfied.

thanks for the info buddy. btw are you rockin stock 4.10 or do u have 4.56 gears???

 

[viperhauler]

i have an 05... 4.56's and cryoed spiders...

 

[Geodriller]

i have an 05... 4.56's and cryoed spiders...

sorry, i thought had an 04, cool thanks:rock:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Damn Retarded camshafts!

Today 09:28 AM #246 VENOMOUS
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Backseat Driver

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Member #:158
Join Dateec 2010
Posts:36OK Geodriller, let me try Lay Terms, lol!

What you do is remove all front accessories and lift engine to drop oil pan down a hair. Once you get the front cover off, you have access to the cam. THE CAM DOESN"T HAVE TO BE REMOVED!! What you are doing is changing the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft, changing the timing events of when the valves are opening/closing while the piston is on it's compression stroke. Most camshafts and crankshafts have a DOT stamped into the gears of each. WHen the #1 piston is at TDC the two marks should align straight up and down. This is how most install a camshaft!! Well, if the grind was off a hair (happens all the time) and the marks are aligned and called good, then your valve event timing is off. It will run and run good, but not to it's full potential as you'll either be closing valves to early (retarded cam) or close valves to late blowing alot of your A/F mixture out the exhaust (advanced too much). There is a perfect sweet spot and using the DEGREE WHEEL gets the valve events EXACT if you know the specs of the camshaft. Dynamic compression is also affected greatly by incorrectly installed camshafts. Not enough cylinder pressure as well as the other end of the spectrum, too much cylinder pressure can be had with an incorrectly degreed camshaft.
Don't get me wrong, I have installed DOT to DOT for many years with great results. thing is many of those could have been optimized further by timing the valve events correctly.
Soooooo......Lay Terms again, the cover is removed and you see the crank and cam gears. YOu get the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center and note the crank and cam postions relative to one another. (DOT TO DOT) You attach the DEGREE WHEEL to the engine face as per instructions and rotate the engine while the pointer off the crankshaft indicates degrees of 360*. At certain times around this 360*rotation you have 20 valve events that must occur at correct times. The cam specs will give you this info. You check what you have currently and compare to known specs and adjust accordingly. To adjust you simply go back to TDC starting point, again note crank/cam gear relationship, remove timing chain, rotate cam 1 tooth counterclockwise or clockwise whether needing advanced or retarded and reinstall chain. Recheck with degree wheel to ensure valve events are when they are supposed to be.
This could be rotating the cam 1 tooth to as many as several teeth depending on what the degree wheel says. ALWAYS ROTATE SEVERAL TIMES TO ENSURE ACCURACY!! Put engine back together and enjoy newfound power.

 

[evanandretti]

Today 09:28 AM #246 VENOMOUS
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Backseat Driver

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Member #:158
Join Dateec 2010
Posts:36OK Geodriller, let me try Lay Terms, lol!

What you do is remove all front accessories and lift engine to drop oil pan down a hair. Once you get the front cover off, you have access to the cam. THE CAM DOESN"T HAVE TO BE REMOVED!! What you are doing is changing the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft, changing the timing events of when the valves are opening/closing while the piston is on it's compression stroke. Most camshafts and crankshafts have a DOT stamped into the gears of each. WHen the #1 piston is at TDC the two marks should align straight up and down. This is how most install a camshaft!! Well, if the grind was off a hair (happens all the time) and the marks are aligned and called good, then your valve event timing is off. It will run and run good, but not to it's full potential as you'll either be closing valves to early (retarded cam) or close valves to late blowing alot of your A/F mixture out the exhaust (advanced too much). There is a perfect sweet spot and using the DEGREE WHEEL gets the valve events EXACT if you know the specs of the camshaft. Dynamic compression is also affected greatly by incorrectly installed camshafts. Not enough cylinder pressure as well as the other end of the spectrum, too much cylinder pressure can be had with an incorrectly degreed camshaft.
Don't get me wrong, I have installed DOT to DOT for many years with great results. thing is many of those could have been optimized further by timing the valve events correctly.
Soooooo......Lay Terms again, the cover is removed and you see the crank and cam gears. YOu get the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center and note the crank and cam postions relative to one another. (DOT TO DOT) You attach the DEGREE WHEEL to the engine face as per instructions and rotate the engine while the pointer off the crankshaft indicates degrees of 360*. At certain times around this 360*rotation you have 20 valve events that must occur at correct times. The cam specs will give you this info. You check what you have currently and compare to known specs and adjust accordingly. To adjust you simply go back to TDC starting point, again note crank/cam gear relationship, remove timing chain, rotate cam 1 tooth counterclockwise or clockwise whether needing advanced or retarded and reinstall chain. Recheck with degree wheel to ensure valve events are when they are supposed to be.
This could be rotating the cam 1 tooth to as many as several teeth depending on what the degree wheel says. ALWAYS ROTATE SEVERAL TIMES TO ENSURE ACCURACY!! Put engine back together and enjoy newfound power.

So, this is the fix to the cam issues on some trucks???

 

[Geodriller]

VENOMOUS 1:

dude, thank you so much for taking the time to write this up for me. i am assuming this is the cheapest fix and also the place to start since there seems to be no other way of knowing all the problems it could be. i have heard some smart people on here that i trust say it could bne alot of things, but noone mentioned any way to try to diagnose the problem.

 

[Psycho1122]

i took the tune back too stock makin the headers my only tune at the moment, the temp has cooled off considerable and i took the truck out and she ran like a little boy outa hanks house. and she pulled like a train. i know the cooler wather will help but ihave driven my trck when it was colder than this without headers and there is deffinatly a difference. so if i can get the tune dialed in, or figure out what the problem is if it is not that.

Geo;

From my recent expirience tuning, I found that Torrie's tunes come in on SAFE Rich side. Utilizing my newly installed AEM Wideband sensor, I was able to provide Torrie the nessessary feedback on A/F in 500-1000 RPM increments as well as weather conditions, elevation etc. All I can say at this point is WOW! As the tune "came in", the truck ran stronger and crisper! Plenty of thrust and top end rush!

Your statement above points into the rich direction also. Do the simple mod first (AEM Wideband) and you will be in a great position! Let me ask you...do you have the additional bung welded into your drivers side header collector?

If so, you have the toughest part of the gauge install done already!

 

[Geodriller]

Geo;

From my recent expirience tuning, I found that Torrie's tunes come in on SAFE Rich side. Utilizing my newly installed AEM Wideband sensor, I was able to provide Torrie the nessessary feedback on A/F in 500-1000 RPM increments as well as weather conditions, elevation etc. All I can say at this point is WOW! As the tune "came in", the truck ran stronger and crisper! Plenty of thrust and top end rush!

Your statement above points into the rich direction also. Do the simple mod first (AEM Wideband) and you will be in a great position! Let me ask you...do you have the additional bung welded into your drivers side header collector?

If so, you have the toughest part of the gauge install done already!

yes sir i do, my headers came with the bung. soon as i get the coin im guna get the wideband, ju8st not keepin hopes up and planning on having to do some seriouse work on the engine. truck has been pushed off to the side for now tho.

thanks
chris