Kicked A Rod

[msnbcnnbcbs]

Hiya folks,

I just bought a 2005 RC and came across this thread searching for initial bolt-on threads (go figure). Truck has 6800 miles and only one previous owner. I traded in a 2003 Dakota R/T.

I read through the whole thing and needless to say I am becoming hesitant to mod this engine now. I was thinking of just doing a drop-in k&n, tune and 170 tstat, but after reading the thread the tune is worrying me a little bit. I probably wont be daily driving it (for now).

for the person who asked, I believe the aluminum viper was a derivative of the old 8.0 cast-iron magnum, which was derived from the 5.9L/360 magnum , although I don't remember any of them having these issues (but then again, none of them revved to 6k stock )

I didn't see it specified but was the O.P. running boost or nitrous? Or doing anything else that would have pushed his RWHP past 500?

 

[JRSVIPR]

Hiya folks,

I just bought a 2005 RC and came across this thread searching for initial bolt-on threads (go figure). Truck has 6800 miles and only one previous owner. I traded in a 2003 Dakota R/T.

I read through the whole thing and needless to say I am becoming hesitant to mod this engine now. I was thinking of just doing a drop-in k&n, tune and 170 tstat, but after reading the thread the tune is worrying me a little bit. I probably wont be daily driving it (for now).

for the person who asked, I believe the aluminum viper was a derivative of the old 8.0 cast-iron magnum, which was derived from the 5.9L/360 magnum , although I don't remember any of them having these issues (but then again, none of them revved to 6k stock )

I didn't see it specified but was the O.P. running boost or nitrous? Or doing anything else that would have pushed his RWHP past 500?

First of all welcome to the VTCoA, I am a daily driver with 62,000 miles. Bolt ons are fine, Enjoy the ride.

 

[ViperPunk]

ya i wouldn't worry too much cuz there are guys on here with superchargers and nitrous on stock motors its all about the tune and what shot/amount of boost you try to push on the motor stock

 

[Ironhead]

many have run up to 600 on stock internals weather its a turbo or S.C

stock many have and still do run a 150 shot of gas and are still running good ,,,but anything over 600 rwhp and your flirting with KABOOM

 

[HaulinAsp]

Ugh.... Wouldn't ya know it, my old thread. Hate to say it but I remember this like it was yesterday.

 

[moparviper]

Wow. Just read this thread. I had to go walk over and grab a beer just to read this:creep:

 

[HaulinAsp]

So what does a good/clean v10 block go for nowadays? :dontknow:

I have a good top end- heads intake ect. i could get the crank cleaned up and inspected. just wonderin is all.....

 

[HaulinAsp]

Finally...

Someone revived a worthwhile thread..... I'm really surprised that I hadn't seen it til now....

I wouldn't allow the fact that this brother's truck went kablooey to dissuade your purchase....

Most engines blow as a result of violating the golden maxium of this truck....

"Without forged internals keep your rwhp at or below 600"...

Most of the members of the "Kablooey Klub" owned trucks that (at some time probably) violated the above rule, or sprayed too much and/or too often, they used forced induction and NOS, too. Some also used forced induction with (simply) too much boost...

When in doubt, always return to the golden maxium....

Personally, I believe that without forged internals it's OK to use a blower (Paxton at about 7 lbs is what I had) ...I advise against increasing the heat by having headers (unless you have some awesome sheilds)...but that's just me being careful... Lastly, I'd never, EVER use NOS and a blower together without a forged bottom end...

Lastly, I'd advise against twin turbo set up without forged bottom end, as well....

D

this engine was never sprayed. or boosted. or forced induced.

 

[Psycho1122]

this engine was never sprayed. or boosted. or forced induced.

Yeah..... however, It clearly suffered from detonation. Detonation is NOT "pinging" or "knocking". It supersonic and occurs quickly without much audible warning. Instant damage is usually the result.
No bluing of the big end bearings, cracks and condition of the piston tops (especially above the ring lands), once the piston(s) started to stick in the cylinder(s), the rod finally broke towards the small end which verified the environment.

These engines require a nod towards a rich condition. The combustion chamber is NOT efficient and detonation prone. You need the extra fuel to keep it cool. That is why from the factory, the A/F is 10:1 at high rpm at WOT.

I would not tune it untill you have a AEM wideband A/F guage. Even a "can" tune will be safe rich (11:1) from an expirienced, reputable tuner.

Cheers