Kicked A Rod

Wow after reading all 22 post in this thread i must say that i dont feel good at all... i was really wanting to get a 10 but it seems that this is a known problem and having a blown motor just made me not want one anymore. what ever happened to this guy?
 
The previous owner sprayed the shit out of his truck or something.................... dont worry bout it! buy it forge it and flog it!
 
GhostR1der said:
Wow after reading all 22 post in this thread i must say that i dont feel good at all... i was really wanting to get a 10 but it seems that this is a known problem and having a blown motor just made me not want one anymore. what ever happened to this guy?

Stock and lightly modded trucks rarely go boom. With n2o or FI, it's just a matter of time without forged internals. I'm done modding;) . I can't afford a new motor.
 
I'm done modding too...except for maybe: a little spray, maybe an inner cooler, a four-link, more head work, re-sleeve, higher compression, and an even smaller sc pulley...other than that...I think I have had it.:D
 
labontecsi said:
Stock and lightly modded trucks rarely go boom. With n2o or FI, it's just a matter of time without forged internals. I'm done modding;) . I can't afford a new motor.
What he said!
 
I want you home now! I have alerted the base that you are returning and that they need to get their radar guns ready!
 
GhostR1der said:
Wow after reading all 22 post in this thread i must say that i dont feel good at all... i was really wanting to get a 10 but it seems that this is a known problem and having a blown motor just made me not want one anymore. what ever happened to this guy?
Don't be scared instead of bolting on shit start with the pistons and rods 2k if you install yourself and then you won't have any worries the ones who pushed the limits (;) me and a few others before forgeing we have to worry.

This truck is perfect for people who don't mod stuff, but if you do then just take the advice of others on here, If I had not come across this site and joined I would of never know about the internals. So just be glad you know in advance and us discrection.:burnout: :burnout:
 
DevilDawg3097 said:
Don't be scared instead of bolting on shit start with the pistons and rods 2k if you install yourself and then you won't have any worries the ones who pushed the limits (;) me and a few others before forgeing we have to worry.

This truck is perfect for people who don't mod stuff, but if you do then just take the advice of others on here, If I had not come across this site and joined I would of never know about the internals. So just be glad you know in advance and us discrection.:burnout: :burnout:


Tru...all dat!
 
the only mods I had planned were catless exhaust, cai, and a tune. Which have already been done.
 
GhostR1der said:
the only mods I had planned were catless exhaust, cai, and a tune. Which have already been done.
Then you really don't have to worry the posts you read about there are a few exceptions but generally it because of to much boost pressure, if it be NOS or forced induction, so that is the jist of it, if you stay safe then don't worry but it you plan on going faster, forge it first, I am this winter.:thrasher: :vroam:
 
Finally...

Someone revived a worthwhile thread..... I'm really surprised that I hadn't seen it til now....

I wouldn't allow the fact that this brother's truck went kablooey to dissuade your purchase....

Most engines blow as a result of violating the golden maxium of this truck....

"Without forged internals keep your rwhp at or below 600"...

Most of the members of the "Kablooey Klub" owned trucks that (at some time probably) violated the above rule, or sprayed too much and/or too often, they used forced induction and NOS, too. Some also used forced induction with (simply) too much boost...

When in doubt, always return to the golden maxium....

Personally, I believe that without forged internals it's OK to use a blower (Paxton at about 7 lbs is what I had) ...I advise against increasing the heat by having headers (unless you have some awesome sheilds)...but that's just me being careful... Lastly, I'd never, EVER use NOS and a blower together without a forged bottom end...

Lastly, I'd advise against twin turbo set up without forged bottom end, as well....

D
 
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Django said:
Finally...

Personally, I believe that without forged internals it's OK to use a blower (Paxton at about 7 lbs is what I had) ...I advise against increasing the heat by having headers (unless you have some awesome sheilds)...but that's just me being careful...

D

I totally disagree with this statement in bold. headers, if anything, will help the situtation by helping remove heat more efficiently. Having ceramic or jet hot coated headers will solve the heat issues produced with headers. remember it's a big air pump, the more efficient you make it the less heat will be retained.
 
MR. anderson, since i put on my bassani headers i can tell a huge diff. in underhood temps as it is MUCH hotter now
 
:rock:
amtrucker22 said:
What he said!


I have to agree,I didn't get to 70K uneventful miles for nothing !!!I would however like to build a Forged Motor one of these days to have on hand if and when it's needed !!!:rock: :rock:
 
ARRESTmeRed04 said:
MR. anderson, since i put on my bassani headers i can tell a huge diff. in underhood temps as it is MUCH hotter now

were they coated? if not then yes it definatelywill get warmer under the hood, get em jet hot coated inside and out. also have you checked your egt's before and after headers? if not just a "it's hotter under the hood statement" is vague at best.
 
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I have the Bassani's that are coated, and I don't notice the under hood temps being any higher than with manifolds. However I didn't take actual temps, so I could be wrong. I know for a fact that the headers sure look better than the manifolds.

Bill.
 
mr. anderson said:
were they coated? if not then yes it definatelywill get warmer under the hood, get em jet hot coated inside and out. also have you checked your egt's before and after headers? if not just a "it's hotter under the hood statement" is vague at best.

I think you are both right....The surface temps on coated headers is less but overall surface area is tripled with the headers.
 

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