PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

[Texas Yellow Fever]

Tony,
I think this is a great idea and as you said, assuming it stays on track we'll probably need to break it out into sub topics, but that will be a good problem to have, assuming we can keep it on track. I could envinsion a how to section under each forum topic at some point, that would be cool I'll make this a regular visit and help out any/all that I can, but I don't know much about this stuff...

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Well the pully fuc#$( the crank up now they are replacing my crank, If I had the cash now I would do the pistons and rods while they have It open but will have to wait till winter. My question Is how long does it take to change out the crank. They told me 2 weeks, I am going through withdraws people, I miss my truck. But seriously 2 frigin weeks. I am a diesel mechanic and it only takes me a week to rebuild shit. Does dodge have a problem with parts? They tried to screw me but the are fixin it I just bought the damn thing and it was 15 days out of dealer warranty, but they are gonna annty up so thats a plus and there gonna put my headers on. Last question I bought ngk irridium plus for my nos is stock gap good or should i go in a little more. Thanks guys.

Dealerships work on a different time table than say Justin or Marty, but at the same time internal oem parts for our engines are not readily available and sometimes it takes a little longer for them to recieve them.
Instead of being angry , be thankful they are willing to repair the truck even tho its out of there warranty period Cranks are very expensive

As far as the plugs and NOS are concerned that is a question maybe Marty or Justin can answer:rock:












Please keep the cursing to a minimal i dont want to see anyones post be deleted due to this by a mod or admistrator
Thanks for understanding

 

[FlyingLow]

Ok i'll go first...............right now i am running boomers stage II flash. I am wanting to switch to a roe vec III (i think anyway) is this going to be an easy switch out that i could take care of by phone or should my truck be taken to a tuner to be sure i am getting optimal performance, FYI i do have quite a few performance mods!

Unless you are getting a super great deal on a VEC I would get a SCT instead. Another option is to have a Blower flash installed on the PCM in place of the stage 2. If you do that then the PCM gets all the benefits of the flash minus timing which will be controlled by the VEC3. However a SCT can do all of that and it is plug and play.

As Tony said the install on the VEC takes time and you are splicing into your wiring. The VEC will have to be located in the engine bay unless you get extra cables ($100 or so) and try to mount it inside the cab. Where as the SCT just plugs into the OBD port under your steering wheel.

For tuning I would only go with a professional regardless of SCT or VEC. The tune will make or break you.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Tony,
I think this is a great idea and as you said, assuming it stays on track we'll probably need to break it out into sub topics, but that will be a good problem to have, assuming we can keep it on track. I could envinsion a how to section under each forum topic at some point, that would be cool I'll make this a regular visit and help out any/all that I can, but I don't know much about this stuff...

Decals, wraps, starter butttons? are all modifications sir:rock:

And your knowledge of this is bar none:congrats:

and yessir, I plan to keep this thread on track as much as possible
I do hope it broadens out to more sections on the forum, Ithink it could be greatly benificial to all our members new and old.

Thanks for joining:rock:

 

[tinygiants]

I need help with a legal roll bar that can be installed in a QC without making the back seat unusable. My local fab guy spoke with someone in the NHRA, and we were denied removalbe supports coming off of the bar. So my initial options are permanent cross bars that block the door, or run parrallel to the headliner and out the back then angle down to the bed. I am looking to see if there are any other legal options to consider.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I need help with a legal roll bar that can be installed in a QC without making the back seat unusable. My local fab guy spoke with someone in the NHRA, and we were denied removalbe supports coming off of the bar. So my initial options are permanent cross bars that block the door, or run parrallel to the headliner and out the back then angle down to the bed. I am looking to see if there are any other legal options to consider.

Personally I would wait to see if its needed, that you will find out after the first couple runs.

Fstjack , Marty, and or Justin I am sure can lead you in the right direction.

Justin is also a great fabricator, he may be able to come up with some type of option

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Roe Racing jsut pm'd and will drop in later tonight and take a peek , so post up questions:rock:

Thanks Roe:rock:

 

[amtrucker22]

Sure wish someone would come up with a RFID solution for us. I would love to be able to keep the keys in the pocket get into the truck and push the start button. I always like the start button but it is kinda silly we have to put our keys in the ignition...

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

You always see guys going from 4.11 to 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Would our trucks be too heavy to go to a 3.73 with FI? I would think that might help with getting some more traction. But how will that affect overall performance? Would it be too much gearing and it would lose speed?

 

[FATJACK]

I am here to answer all "T" shirt questions:rock: :rock:

 

[JMB Justin]

You always see guys going from 4.11 to 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Would our trucks be too heavy to go to a 3.73 with FI? I would think that might help with getting some more traction. But how will that affect overall performance? Would it be too much gearing and it would lose speed?

It really depends on the power your making, what kind of track your running at (1/8 or 1/4 mile), and what height tire you are running. I switched to the 4.11's in my 05 because on the bottle the 4.56's would have been too steep with the short drag radials we have to work with. It worked out excellent, I go through the traps really close to peak power, ~ 5600 in 4th. Another example is Doms turbo truck which needs a 3.7 or 3.9 gear to stay out of 5th on the drag radials, but would probably be perfect on a 33" tire with the 4.11's.
Justin

 

[JMB Justin]

On the iridium plugs with N20, that wouldnt be my first choice, but it should work. Your not supposed to gap iridiums because they are so fragile, but take your time and you can gap them to .035 or so for a 150 shot. Try different gaps, but I think youll have spark blowout at .040 or more.
Justin

 

[FSTJACK]

You always see guys going from 4.11 to 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Would our trucks be too heavy to go to a 3.73 with FI? I would think that might help with getting some more traction. But how will that affect overall performance? Would it be too much gearing and it would lose speed?

The 3.73 would agrivate wheel spin, and not allow the motor to come up to an efficient RPM to accelerate the truck to it's potential.
A lower numerical rear end gear ratio makes wheel spin more controlable. This however does require driving skill, to make the most of. It is much harder to control wheel spin with a lower numerical ratio, ie 3.73.
The truck is very heavy for a 3.73 with a 31.5" tire.
The 3.73 would however probably get you great fuel mileage on the highway.

The gearing has to be matched to the "combination".
The combination takes into account, Horsepower and torque and where these come into play; ie the torque and horsepower start and the rate of increase of each.. The gearing in the transmission, the torque converter stall speed, tire height, and the weight of the vehicle.
As with everything in life, hotrods, and love, gearing is a compromise.

I feel with your combination you would be sacrificing a great deal of acceleration to go with a 3.73.

 

[FlyingLow]

Well the pully fuc#$( the crank up now they are replacing my crank, If I had the cash now I would do the pistons and rods while they have It open but will have to wait till winter. My question Is how long does it take to change out the crank. They told me 2 weeks, I am going through withdraws people, I miss my truck. But seriously 2 frigin weeks. I am a diesel mechanic and it only takes me a week to rebuild shit. Does dodge have a problem with parts? They tried to screw me but the are fixin it I just bought the damn thing and it was 15 days out of dealer warranty, but they are gonna annty up so thats a plus and there gonna put my headers on. Last question I bought ngk irridium plus for my nos is stock gap good or should i go in a little more. Thanks guys.

It has been 4 months and I still don't have mine back.

 

[DevilDawg3097]

NOS question i am used to using the gas with an automatic, question on 6spd.
Do I set the window for 1-2 or should I go with 2-3 I know 1-2 will get really squirrelly even with bars, so what do ya think?

 

[DevilDawg3097]

On the iridium plugs with N20, that wouldnt be my first choice, but it should work. Your not supposed to gap iridiums because they are so fragile, but take your time and you can gap them to .035 or so for a 150 shot. Try different gaps, but I think youll have spark blowout at .040 or more.
Justin

What plugs do you recommend? I can send the NGK's back.

 

[shadow 203]

I have been thinking of geting a tuner nothing to wild. Any ideas

 

[FaSt-RAM-716]

lookin at getting cams and head work or buying built heads whats the best way of doing this and where can i get it done?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I have been thinking of geting a tuner nothing to wild. Any ideas

Shadow, contact Sean Roe, he is very close to you from Fort Stewart, with him you can go with a SCT tuner, and have it tuned on the dyno.

He is just in Jacksonville Florida sir

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

lookin at getting cams and head work or buying built heads whats the best way of doing this and where can i get it done?

cams there is multiple choices, comp cams makes a couple, and some run the viper competition cam.
as far as headwork? Well there are a few options, one is having them ported by a proffesional, the other going with styker heads

one option is around 3k or less, the other 6k or more