FATJACK
Full Access Member
Stinker, find us a small rear brake kit, there has got to be one available.
.Since it also works on the Magnum engines (318-360 or 5.2-5.9) , it SHOULD work on any Viper engine...........NA,supercharged,flashed or stock.
Very simple install .........just cut one of the wires from the IAT and splice in a resistor (I used a 4.7,but 5 to 7 should also work).The IAT is located just in front of the throttle body in the intake tube on the right as you look at the engine
i tried it and got a check engine light so i took it off. just some info, nysteve has researched this alotSANCHOBA said:tony, what are your thought on this....
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i have the stage 2 flash, any benefit? would it hurt anything if i tried it?:dontknow:
my understanding is it doesnt let the computer pull timing when it gets hot so you dont loose horsepowerSANCHOBA said:i know it tricks the computer into thinking the intake air is cooler...but what happens? makes it run richer?
It would take an expensive cutsom setupFATJACK said:Stinker, find us a small rear brake kit, there has got to be one available.
bingo! Tsmith3 you might try this alsoeddie102870 said:my understanding is it doesnt let the computer pull timing when it gets hot so you dont loose horsepower
Comp Cams has themFaSt-RAM-716 said:can any one lead me to a site were i can buy cams for my truck?
tsmith3 said:OK, my truck runs really strong when I first take off it... I usually give it a little onion on the on ramps to the interstate. When I do this while the temps are below 180 the truck runs really strong....burning rubber all the way up the ramp. Now after it get completely warmed up and you do the same thing it acts either like its getting too much fuel or timing is being pulled. So, far I have checked and changed all the plugs, double checked the tstat to make sure it was the 170. I have also added a bigger inter cooler and a better pump. The truck runs fine when your just putting around town no pinging or codes or anything like that. It builds a consistant 5psi of boost all the time its under boosted applications.
Sorry for the rant, its just getting a little frustrating. I really need to find a competent shop some where close to me(Denver or Salt Lake City).
Stinker said:bingo! Tsmith3 you might try this also
tsmith3 said:I tried that as well... saw no difference after the mod. I don't have an AFR in there yet.
Yes, it definately needs a tune a Dyno tune. I think its running rich not lean:dontknow: would a bad O2 sesnor make it run rich?
tsmith3 said:I tried that as well... saw no difference after the mod. I don't have an AFR in there yet.
Yes, it definately needs a tune a Dyno tune. I think its running rich not lean:dontknow: would a bad O2 sesnor make it run rich?
tsmith3 said:OK, my truck runs really strong when I first take off it... I usually give it a little onion on the on ramps to the interstate. When I do this while the temps are below 180 the truck runs really strong....burning rubber all the way up the ramp. Now after it get completely warmed up and you do the same thing it acts either like its getting too much fuel or timing is being pulled. So, far I have checked and changed all the plugs, double checked the tstat to make sure it was the 170. I have also added a bigger inter cooler and a better pump. The truck runs fine when your just putting around town no pinging or codes or anything like that. It builds a consistant 5psi of boost all the time its under boosted applications.
Sorry for the rant, its just getting a little frustrating. I really need to find a competent shop some where close to me(Denver or Salt Lake City).
Stinker said:Ok so we have a member with a blown Roe engine
Perk
so how would everyone proceed, lets give him some help here:rock:
i think he found a new block for a decent deal.
but what next?
\
rods pistons?
does he need mains?
would you go ahead and do the heads?
suggestions
WOLFRAM said:Thanks for bringing this up Alex.
I was expecting higher temps with the Paxton, but WOW!
I was wondering if we could get a list going of what temps people are running, (oil & water at least).
To compare the differences between Paxton, Roe, Single Turbo, and Twin Turbo.
I've only driven my new truck once (to get inspection, about 30 miles).
During this drive the oil hit 240-260, and the water red lined with "check engine" lights. (no codes)
But, It did cool down really quick after I turned it off.