My twins run around 170-180 degrees even on the hottest days, the oil about 180
Perk I have a guy that is very very good
Perk I have a guy that is very very good
PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE
- Thread starter JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE
- Start date
Well when I rebuild any diesel I just go ahead and redo everything you can since you have it apart. If you have the means build the hell out of the motor. Crank rods and pistons as I am new to the viper arena I am finding parts are a bitch, IMO if you don't care about the motor I would go with a 426 hemi will push out more and handle it better most pro's build the shit out of these and there a little less costly, but if you are gonna stay original I would go with the Gen 4 specs, better pistons rods and crank they finally put a motor in that doesn't have to be fu%$ed with. as far as getting the parts Stinker and the others are your best source. These guys can get you parts that are better and get em faster than the dealer. Stinker zex?Stinker said:
pokeytemplar
Full Access Member
I wouldn't say the Gen 4 rods are any better. Just Hemi rods Powdered like before just now with bronze bushings. Pistons have an even shorter Comp height so boost should cause even more problems (on the ring lands).
I wasnt going to mention this mainly because I really dont belive it, but spoke with some good ol boys over in charlotte friday, and they told me that any kind of forced induction on any gen III requires forging. eventually they all fail, either pistons or rods, because of the cheapness of the oem parts.
perk_1405
Full Access Member
i belive it
No just specs not parts, since he has it apart I would go through everything
and go forged with HI PO parts, but here is a link for mopar blocks, are frigin engines are worth more than the truck. But if there is no one for blocks on the site, this place knows there shit and I am sure stinker could work something out if need be.
http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/blocks.html
and go forged with HI PO parts, but here is a link for mopar blocks, are frigin engines are worth more than the truck. But if there is no one for blocks on the site, this place knows there shit and I am sure stinker could work something out if need be.
http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/blocks.html
Stinker said:I wasnt going to mention this mainly because I really dont belive it, but spoke with some good ol boys over in charlotte friday, and they told me that any kind of forced induction on any gen III requires forging. eventually they all fail, either pistons or rods, because of the cheapness of the oem parts.
Makes me feel good to have those 1500HP rated GM rods & pistons rotating in my snake...
pokeytemplar
Full Access Member
Believe it buddy. The big 3 can't make any money any more without cutting every corner possible. Just be glad they decided to use forged cranks in the Viper instead of the cast one they used in the Magnum V-10's!
LitemUp said:
I have a meth injection kit from Roe Racing that will be installed tomorrow. I know what you mean by the temps... but up here at night it gets down to 50 degrees so I don't think that's main culprit. I have also tried the IAT mod.
I also rechecked the plugs and they look good. Tomorrow I'm going to change the plug wires with MSD and install the Meth injection. I also have the back o2 sensor's which are no longer installed (Cat delete). Will these work for the front :dontknow: they look to be one part number off but have the same connection and wiring.
tsmith3 said:
the O2s will work fine, one thing I have noticed is that I have to change my plugs very frequently to keep up the power, not sure with supercharging , but even eddie says he notices a huge difference when changing his.
I would think that a good dyno tune would definitly wake the ol girl up, You may have to just plan a weekend trip or something t someone that is good with vipers
Man I wish I had 50 degree weather here, and your absolutely right something else is wrong. Do you have a way to pull your fuel and timing maps from you split second box that came with the Paxton? If so, extract the file and send it to me. I'll take a look at it and compare it to mine. Are you running a stock PCM or a flashed one? Did this just start happening or has it always acted like this? Have you done any mods since this started occurring?
tsmith3 said:
OK... I'm in the process (long process) of saving $$$ for my engine build. Hopefully, I'll have the cash to build it before it blows. I'm trying to decide if I want to stick with the Roe. I love the low end power I get with it, and the sound. How much boost can one get out of the Roe SC? What about the Paxton??
Thanx
. I'm trying to decide if I want to stick with the Roe. I love the low end power I get with it, and the sound. How much boost can one get out of the Roe SC? What about the Paxton??Thanx
I've heard of Paxtons making 14-16 psi.
with a paxton 8-900 hp is possible without too much belt slip, but a ton of work
wwith a roe i have only heard of someone making around 700hp, without nos now I have heard that beyond a certain point, boost makes no difference on the roe, dang wish i could remember who it was
I know its expensive, but turbos are endless power,you can set boost to acheive 600hp, and set it to 1200 if you have the right set up.
wwith a roe i have only heard of someone making around 700hp, without nos now
I have heard that beyond a certain point, boost makes no difference on the roe, dang wish i could remember who it was I know its expensive, but turbos are endless power,you can set boost to acheive 600hp, and set it to 1200 if you have the right set up.
I think I'll be happy with 700 I've been told that you can get 14psi with the Roe. Is that realistic?
If I'm at 580hp @ 5.6psi now.... what should I be at with 14psi?
I've been told that you can get 14psi with the Roe. Is that realistic?If I'm at 580hp @ 5.6psi now.... what should I be at with 14psi?
Are you running a stock PCM or a flashed one? Did this just start happening or has it always acted like this? Have you done any mods since this started occurring?
Stock PCM, No the truck ran really good when I bought it. The belt started to slip about a month after I got it. No mods dealing with the engine have been done before this started happening. All I changed was the shifter, Shift light, Boost gauge, What type of software do you need to look at the fuel maps. I saw the port on the Split second box but I don't have a clue on how to extract it.
Stock PCM, No the truck ran really good when I bought it. The belt started to slip about a month after I got it. No mods dealing with the engine have been done before this started happening. All I changed was the shifter, Shift light, Boost gauge, What type of software do you need to look at the fuel maps. I saw the port on the Split second box but I don't have a clue on how to extract it.
LoveThisTruck said:I think I'll be happy with 700
If I'm at 580hp @ 5.6psi now.... what should I be at with 14psi?
bo i dont honestly know:dontknow: what I do know is a fella in tx built the bottom end, had a full exhaust, headers back, no cats, killer set of heads, small pulleys and ended up with 700rwhp.
now I do think more is attainable, different tuners acheive different results, not saying one is bad or another is good, jsut that they get different results
i think 750hp could be made, jack on the other hand thinks I am goofily wrong
but between Prof's build and tiny's monster build, between the two, we could see new results.
I am excited to see either one, and what comes out from the two different builds:rock:
I am excited too. Joe has been conservative when we talk results. In my case we are working with a custom intake manifold as the intake has been the largest hinderance. As for boost levels, I purchased the 9 lb pulley and the 2 smaller ones from Kyle. We should be able to get up there a ways. I will have work to do to keep belt slippage to a minimum. My biggest performance adder, in my opinion, will be the suspension and tires. We will have to see how my 60 ' improves.Stinker said:bo i dont honestly know:dontknow: what I do know is a fella in tx built the bottom end, had a full exhaust, headers back, no cats, killer set of heads, small pulleys and ended up with 700rwhp.
now I do think more is attainable, different tuners acheive different results, not saying one is bad or another is good, jsut that they get different results
i think 750hp could be made, jack on the other hand thinks I am goofily wrong
but between Prof's build and tiny's monster build, between the two, we could see new results.
I am excited to see either one, and what comes out from the two different builds:rock:
pokeytemplar
Full Access Member
tinygiants,
Remember the max rpm of the lyschom blower is 11,000rpm. I would hate to overrun one of them. 14psi would effectively double your HP IF you could remove all of the heat. I would have to do some calculations at my end to figure out your effective boost. but would guess you would achieve ~75% without intercooling
Remember the max rpm of the lyschom blower is 11,000rpm. I would hate to overrun one of them. 14psi would effectively double your HP IF you could remove all of the heat. I would have to do some calculations at my end to figure out your effective boost. but would guess you would achieve ~75% without intercooling
tsmith3 said:
I hope you have a lap top or a friend that has one cause your gonna need it. A couple of things you need to purchase before you can pull the fuel and timing maps.
1. Purchase the tuning software from Split Second. I think I may have a copy of the software that I can burn for you, but won't be able to do anything until the end of the week. If you purchase it from Split Second its about $49.
2. You need to go to Radio Shack and purchase a 6ft 9 pin serial cable (I think) to hook up to your Split Second box on the truck. I think it was $10
3. Last you need to go to Best Buy, Comp USA, or any another computer parts store and purchase a Belkin serial to USB cable $40.
If you need model number for the Belkin let me know. PM if you have any questions
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