Pulling Engine - Let me know if there is anything you want measured or a picture of

[Bone]

Measured and ordered push rods (7.65 inches is stock length, not 7.602-7.627 as the manual states) So for those ordering forged push rods, here is the stock length.

I haven't taken the cam out yet. I had to work most of the day today. Will start back up on Monday. Probably pull it on Monday or Tuesday (after dentist)

Monday pull the rest of the pistons and crank. Put new pistons on rods and have them balanced along with crank.

I end up fixing other issues while the truck is on the lift (check brakes, tighten traction bars, fix train horn, etc.)

 

[Bone]

Is there a way to do a piston upgrade like yours without pulling the engine?

thanks for the pics also.

That would be tough (maybe stinker and his small hands?). If you get this far, you might as well invest a couple more hours and pull the engine, do it right and take pics for your friends. :rock: I don't want to say you can't, because someone will end up proving me wrong, but it will be difficult at the very least. If you have the right engine stand and a buddy, it wasn't difficult to lift the engine, just take it slowly and watch out for the oil pan and extra wires. The right tools available will save you time and much a$$ pain. I had to borrow a bigger engine stand. Our engine weighs 625 lbs, the standard stand we had was rated to 700lbs, so with the allum block, goodies being added, and a 12K engine, I asked around for a bigger engine stand. Cost me some time but I was also worried with the V10 of the tipping potential. I'm sure others online here with more experience can give their 2 cents.

 

[Dominick572]

Cool Beans your full of great info... doing the pistons in the future for me so i was just exploring my options. I know how to work with my hands and I love working on my truck so Im hoping to do everything myself. The pics are very very helpful hope everything goes good!!!

 

[Bone]

Extreme close ups of the rear main seal, so many of us have slight seeps there.

Mine looked fine. Close ups aren't the best with the camera. I just didn't have any leaks, at least so far.:star:

 

[Kevan]

Thanks for the pics, Dave!!!!!!

 

[shade]

How many miles are on the engine? The piston tops of the originals and cylinder walls look great

 

[Bone]

How many miles are on the engine? The piston tops of the originals and cylinder walls look great

9-10K. Half of the time I have owned it, it has been sitting in the garage since I have been out of the country.

Anyone want the original piston tops? lol Maybe Kevan can make some lights out (bases) of them or something??

 

[Kevan]

Any want the original piston tops? lol Maybe Kevan can make some lights out (bases) of them or something??

Heh heh...no thanks. I've got plenty of projects goin' right now.

BTW- I think I figured out how Stinker got to the plug wires. I'll let ya know how my attempts work out.

 

[Bone]

Heh heh...no thanks. I've got plenty of projects goin' right now.

BTW- I think I figured out how Stinker got to the plug wires. I'll let ya know how my attempts work out.

I still think it is worth pulling the IM. Speaking of IM, I have an extra one now if somebody wants to fiddle with it or chrome it.

I don't have any large boxes yet to ship any of my items yet. When finished with the job, I will put up all of the parts for grabs. I have multiple requests for various items. It will be easier to do all at once.

 

[Bone]

how did your cylinder walls and the tops of your pistons look, with you spraying and all, should have this moved to the do-it-yourself section

here's some more pics.
I am balancing the rods, pistons and crank presently.

 

[Black1]

here's some more pics.
I am balancing the rods, pistons and crank presently.

Yep, looks pretty in-depth there, Dave.

All the easy work seems to be done! Now for the "fun" stuff. :rock:

 

[Bone]

Yep, looks pretty in-depth there, Dave.

All the easy work seems to be done! Now for the "fun" stuff. :rock:

I always like it when you complete the install and then find a few extra bolts/screws in the magnetic tray. Hey, where do these go?! lol:rock:

I bought a few extra mag trays and been boxing up the bolts w/labels.

 

[Bone]

A bit of info here; I found ARP head bolts/studs for our trucks. These are beefed up head bolts and good insurance for your install. ARP doesn't admit they have the bolts (long story) but Jason at Racing Solutions, Inc has them and is the maker of the bolts.

Jason was extremely knowledgeable and familiar with our truck.
In addition, they are no longer making RSI throttle bodies. Said someone in Penns will be producing them now.

All Pro Series Head Bolts are cold-forged to ensure molecular integrity, heat-treated prior to thread rolling and machining, and are rated nominally at 190,000 psi. ARP® Pro Series head bolt kits are application specific-designed for use with typically competition only components. These fasteners deliver superior strength and meet the ARP® "ZERO defect-ZERO failure" quality standard. Hardened and parallel-ground washers are included with each kit to ensure even load distribution and accurate torque readings. All Pro Series head bolts have a reduced wrenching 12-point head and wide area flange to eliminate the need for valve train removal for cylinder head retorquing and permits the use of larger diameter valve springs. Most applications have undercut short bolts that can help eliminate head gasket failures through providing more "stretch" to compensate for the additional compression of gaskets.

Obtaining the optimum cylinder head-to-block sealing is especially critical in small displacement engines employing high compression pistons or power adders like turbochargers, nitrous oxide and superchargers. That’s why ARP® head studs are popular among leading Sport Compact/Import racers.

You should know that ARP® uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior to "aircraft" quality. Then, each stud is precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi. Following heattreat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight part. It’s important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground—the material is thread rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP® studs are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into position and are perfectly aligned—something that won’t happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP® studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat.

You will also note that ARP® offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more equalizes the "stretch" of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force—one that compensates for head gasket compression when the head is installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum sealing!

 

[Black1]

I always like it when you complete the install and then find a few extra bolts/screws in the magnetic tray. Hey, where do these go?! lol:rock:

I bought a few extra mag trays and been boxing up the bolts w/labels.

Yeah, Bro! It's not done right if you DON'T have stuff left over! :dontknow: :rock:

 

[Bone]

Panel installed today.:rock:

 

[Bone]

Routing for VEC 3 extension cable to put into cab. This panel/bracket is located on the driver's side next to the master cyl, drivers left side of master cyl. As you can see, I drilled a hole to insert the cable thru.:2in1:

 

[Bone]

Forged push rods next to stockers.

 

[Bone]

Mutt's leather inserts. Forgot to take a pic of the other one he made for my hemi.

Before and


after look.

 

[Sharpimage]

How hard was it to take the front dash apart? got any tutorials?
I'm gonna get an iPod connector for my truck soon and was wondering
what all i need to do to get the dash apart.

Sharpi

 

[Bone]

How hard was it to take the front dash apart? got any tutorials?
I'm gonna get an iPod connector for my truck soon and was wondering
what all i need to do to get the dash apart.

Sharpi

Front dash apart?
Here's the VEC 3 installed in the dash.

Before I say for sure on the dash, let me check for any screws that I may have taken out. I don't have the truck at home. I can just pop it out but let me ask Taliban Dan if he took out any screws from the dash when I wasn't around. Same with the ash tray. I almost put the VEC there but it is too close to the beer holder and I don't want to spill anything on the VEC.