Rebuilding engine with Turbo in mind.

However, if you decide to go turbo...I suggest you read a book by Corky Bell on Turbos...Has alot a good info and will answer all your questions on it.
 
FerrariTruck said:
Brad, please dont take this to the heart...But I really think building the truck to be a turbo monter is not great idea. To start, we already know the fastest trucks out there in numbers are either Paxton or Roe and in jmb's case Nos.
We all gotten that itch to just want max out our CC's and order all the stuff we see other guys have. Its natural to want to mod like crazy, but its unfortunate that some of us are not in the same position to do so. If the land is on decline and selling sounds like a good idea right now, well i cant argue with that. However since you have a crave for speed and you love racing at the track, I think purchasing a 2nd car is in order. This is the route i'm going. I could either spend 5k on truck and still only run 12sec, or invest that in my 70 Monte. So far i've gotten Nos, eaton locker, 454, turbo 400 and i have even broke $2k. Building up any 60's 70's to drag race has got to be the easiest thing to do. You can order everything off summit and can have all your machine work performed by a local reputable shop.
This is what i would do:
1)fix the truck --regrind crank, install oversized bearing, and reinstall---then put another 40k miles on er'.
2)purchase a 60's 70's chevy a-body(chevelle, monte Carlo, nova, Even a camaro) and even let the kids help out.. $2k tops for a non-running car...
3) set aside $10k , hell even less and you can easily have an 11 sec car or faster that the whole family can take part in...
4)once finished tow to track with truck---Proceed to beat the your track car/occasional street car...

I'll be posting a thread with pics of my monte soon...Wont be able to catch Nowwhat in the truck, But If he brings out the vette my MC will be all over him:D
Click to expand...

Alfredo, I do value your opinion and don't take it to heart. I made this public so I can get everyone's opinions to my situation and what my plans are with the truck. I must agree that dumping all this money into a truck is overkill and can be fixed for much less. That is the logical thing to do.:rock:

As of right now I am still gearing towards the turbo setup. I will space the expense over a 3 stage build. I am doing a lot of reading and homework on the build but have a lot of questions that have to be answered first before I do the build. I have to be 100 percent knowledgable on the build or it's not worth the expense of doing it.

This build can take me over a year or two to complete but the truck will be down only for a few months and driveable by the time the first stage is complete.
 
Kevan said:
"Buy land. They're not making it anymore." - Mark Twain.


Yep. I think there's an 1100 N/A Viper engine out there.
I'll send ya the link, Brad.

UGR knows Viper engines and turbo systems...and how to get them right.
SVS is pretty damn good too, though more known for their Viper car setups.

Gale Banks has more world speed records with turbocharged vehicles than NowWhat has lisping male fans. (Gale even holds the world record for "Fastest Motorhome". LOL)
While known for his V8 and diesel configurations and setups, the guys at Banks would be another good- and local to you- resource for turbo charging.

Sounds like a cool project, Brad. I wish I was in CA. I'd help ya out tearing down and building up. :D


Stinker- What did you do about the oil setup in your truck? Change anything there after adding the hairdryers?
Click to expand...

Definately post that link and any engine info you can.

SRTBrad, go all N/A and save the money for the two turbos and related components plus the stand alone to run it. You can still make 800+ hp on pump gas.
 
SrtBrad said:
This build can take me over a year or two to complete but the truck will be down only for a few months and driveable by the time the first stage is complete.
Click to expand...
Do you have basic mechanical skills:dontknow: (this time I'm not being a smart ass either)
 
Wifey said:
Do you have basic mechanical skills:dontknow: (this time I'm not being a smart ass either)
Click to expand...

Yes I used to own a shop. I just don't know the Viper engine and the tricks of the Viper trade yet. I do all my homework first before making any solid decisions.
 
How about this approach...pick up a blown engine. They frequently come available. Fix the block...many sell because they have sent a rod through it...but these are alum blocks...fix that sucker, re-sleeve it, and put it on an engine stand...then do a pictorial ultimate dual turbo build over-time (your two or three year horizon) and you will still have a fun truck to drive with a repaired main bearing...

I think Nathan recently picked up a blown engine for two or three thousand.

Over the two or three years you are building, you might find that some of the glitches we have experienced with turbos will have been addressed and solved.

Just another approach...to add to your matrix.

Roy
 
Prof said:
How about this approach...pick up a blown engine. They frequently come available. Fix the block...many sell because they have sent a rod through it...but these are alum blocks...fix that sucker, re-sleeve it, and put it on an engine stand...then do a pictorial ultimate dual turbo build over-time (your two or three year horizon) and you will still have a fun truck to drive with a repaired main bearing...

I think Nathan recently picked up a blown engine for two or three thousand.

Over the two or three years you are building, you might find that some of the glitches we have experienced with turbos will have been addressed and solved.

Just another approach...to add to your matrix.

Roy
Click to expand...

That is a very good suggestion.:rock: Never thought of that.:D I think only a Prof can answer this issue with such clarity.:rock: :rock:
 
Prof said:
How about this approach...pick up a blown engine. They frequently come available. Fix the block...many sell because they have sent a rod through it...but these are alum blocks...fix that sucker, re-sleeve it, and put it on an engine stand...then do a pictorial ultimate dual turbo build over-time (your two or three year horizon) and you will still have a fun truck to drive with a repaired main bearing...

I think Nathan recently picked up a blown engine for two or three thousand.

Over the two or three years you are building, you might find that some of the glitches we have experienced with turbos will have been addressed and solved.

Just another approach...to add to your matrix.

Roy
Click to expand...


If you have the garage space thats a great idea. Build it over time, do it right without having to rush.

We are still learning from our Prof!!!!!:rock: Please dont send us a tuiton bill!!! LOL

patrick
 
I still believe that turbos belong on small displacement engines making 20-30 lbs of boost pressure. superchargers work best on large displacement engines that can only handle a few psi of boost.

if you build a turbo setup, you will spend a lot of time and hassle trying to tame those turbos which will do everything in their power to make 20 lbs of boost. even if you find wastegates that can flow enough to keep your turbo boost down, one tiny vacuum leak and it's boom! And I don't think there is any way to make the block strong enough to handle that much boost on a viper engine, as it would be pushing 2000+ hp easily. If the block were cast iron, it would be no problem!

why are you thinking of turbos anyway?
 
I was going to go the route of building a second motor so that my truck would only be down a month or two. Smoking my original ruined that plan so now I haven't driven my truck in over a year. I highly reccomend building a motor while you enjoy your truck, no worries on how long it takes then. Also you can spend funds as they come available instead of having to swallow it all in one chunk.

Joe
 
SrtBrad said:
I could never be bored with this truck. The land is something I own that I never get to use. The VTCOA lifesytle is something that I treasure more than the land. Seeing the truck sit for a year while I try to save up enough money will cost me more money in the long run due to lost business. Thanks for looking out.:rock:
Click to expand...

Brad atleast You Got your Priorities Straight:rock: I would think Dan At DC would be your best bet:dontknow:
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
If you have the garage space thats a great idea. Build it over time, do it right without having to rush.

We are still learning from our Prof!!!!!:rock: Please dont send us a tuiton bill!!! LOL

patrick
Click to expand...


No fees Patrick, just send your daughters to class in short skirts!
 
Stinker said:
engine wise, billet mains, ( also means line boring the crank) oliver rods, pistons, about 8.1 compression, stryker heads( comes complete with jesel rockers), end cost around $10,000 or better to have a "quality" machine shope to do the machine work, then you will need someone with experience to put it together, and by experience I mean with viper motors.

I can put you in touch with UGR and they can get it done for you resonable, and honestly that is a much easier way to go, the ones they build are good for 15-1600rwhp.

You will need a fuel system, I opted for a single pump, just because I dont like th posibility of one or more pumps going out, but they do have a billet pump holder that holds 3 pumps in the stock tank.

then you will need plumbing, fuel rails and "flow" matched injectors, that is a must, and a fuel regulator.

also a boost controller.

Now once you have that done, you cna fab up your own turbo system or opt out and go for the pro turb deal, twins are about 12k I think and single 6k or in that area.

Now for 1000rwhp streetable you will need ceramic bearing 76mm for the twins and a 88mm for the single.

then you will need a fuel mangment system and the AEM is the easiest out there, a guy iin oregon has a harnes to make it pug and play, expect 4k for this.

then you gonna need a tranny, call Joe, or get in touch with the big eared polyester wearing karate kid:D

then call me for a rear axle:p

Dont forget about guages, at the least a air fuel guage, fuel pressure, and boost guage.

I wouldnt bother too much with a stroker, but there is a ton of them out there.

But dont DONT scrimp on the engine bro, oh and one more thing:D and this is the truth, expect a rebuild every 10-15k miles:D 1000hp beats the hell out of the mains,
like ya say ya gotta pay to play:p

for a daily driver you are better off with about 800hp and leave one setting for kill mode:rock:
Click to expand...

I'll just put a Down payment on a twint turbo Bentely for that price And Make Monthly Payments:D
 
AWDisuzu said:
I still believe that turbos belong on small displacement engines making 20-30 lbs of boost pressure. superchargers work best on large displacement engines that can only handle a few psi of boost.

if you build a turbo setup, you will spend a lot of time and hassle trying to tame those turbos which will do everything in their power to make 20 lbs of boost. even if you find wastegates that can flow enough to keep your turbo boost down, one tiny vacuum leak and it's boom! And I don't think there is any way to make the block strong enough to handle that much boost on a viper engine, as it would be pushing 2000+ hp easily. If the block were cast iron, it would be no problem!

why are you thinking of turbos anyway?
Click to expand...

After a crash course in Viper performance options I have a clear understanding of each option and how they relate to my application. The turbo option is in question and is now looking like the Roe supercharger.

Let me know if I am wrong on my info. The options are as follows:

1: Twin Turbo (Low end lag, developes power and boost from 3000 rpm and up) The best for road courses where you are consistantly in the 3000+ rpm range.

2: Paxton Novi 2000 Supercharger (Low end lag, developes power and boost as the rpm increases, max 12 pounds boost capacity) Best for Street/Track applications with a very linear power curve.

3: Roe Supercharger ( Biggest supercharger with immediate power and full boost at low rpm range and can develop 25lbs of boost) The best for the 1/4 mile track with instant power down low and thru the entire rpm range.

I want to build the engine for the track primarily and use the truck for every day driving as well. With my choices above if I have my info correct would have to be the Roe with 1 pulley for the track and 1 pulley for the street. The engine would be built for an 8 to 1 compression ratio with the best of the best parts internally.

At the track I would shoot for a 13 - 18 pound boost with the right internals to allow for such low end power and torque. If I am correct the Roe has an intercooler problem that could be addressed with NO2 at the track for the high boost or with methanol for the street tune which would be around 5-8 lbs boost.

Am I on the right track or are there other problems with the Roe that I should understand?
 
From what I remember 1Fast400 (I know I know) had some major problems with the truck twisting on launch because of the torque down low. Think it damaged the block. He ended up going to a Paxton.

This has been debated on here before but IMO the Paxton is the best setup for the track... at least from what I've seen so far. Maybe you can prove me wrong?

Joe
 
Scrambler1 said:
From what I remember 1Fast400 (I know I know) had some major problems with the truck twisting on launch because of the torque down low. Think it damaged the block. He ended up going to a Paxton.

This has been debated on here before but IMO the Paxton is the best setup for the track... at least from what I've seen so far. Maybe you can prove me wrong?

Joe
Click to expand...

Joe, I don't think that this is a discussion of which is better or even more appropriate. Brad wants a twin turbo...the discussion for the most part is how to go about doing it...or if the level he want to go to is the level he should be seeking.

There is no right or wrong when you come to boosting...it really comes down to what your want your truck to do and how you want to achieve it. Maybe a thread someday will crop up that asks: What is the very best way to build the fastest truck. That discussion would be different from, "What is the cheapest way to build a very fast truck", which is different from how can I build a truck to set a 1/4 speed record...etc.
 
Scrambler1 said:
From what I remember 1Fast400 (I know I know) had some major problems with the truck twisting on launch because of the torque down low. Think it damaged the block. He ended up going to a Paxton.

This has been debated on here before but IMO the Paxton is the best setup for the track... at least from what I've seen so far. Maybe you can prove me wrong?

Joe
Click to expand...
IMO,

N/A is better all the way around.

Just ask my neighbor.:D :D :D
 
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