Watching this thread...:rock:
Regular Cab Automatic Conversion?
- Thread starter Carlwalski
- Start date
Thanks mate. I guess the only other concern I have is that from what I have seen/heard (on videos, in person) most 4-speed automatics with power behind them are a little inconsistent and sloppy sounding, if that makes sense? This is compared to their 3 speed counterparts, it sounds in some cases like they are searching for a gear etc. Not sure if a manual valve body would help, should do by keeping it in gear but yeah, that's about my only issue with the modern 4 speeds.SilvrSRT10 said:
kickinassrt-10
Full Access Member
I think it's a great idea and contrary to many beliefs the auto's can hold their own against manual...however if you are going from scratch to convert into an automatic....WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU GO WITH A 48RE???????? I own one and HATE it with a passion no matter how much work is done to it.....go with a tranny that can perform well and does not come from factory with issues......just my 2 cents....Good luck with the build..keep us posted!!!
OK, I'm not a fan of GVs BUT would consider using them strictly for the OD and ease of bolting to a TH400. The splitting is a big gimmick (IMO) but the OD works well. Their kits cost $2,795 which isn't "too bad" and would drop the 4.56 1:1 from 3,030rpm @ 65mph to 3.56 in OD (0.78) which equals 2,360rpm - MUCH better. From what I can see Gear Vendors only list 2 OD units for the TH400, they are as per below.
Which one is better suited?
Part #3D0400A
Automatic 3-Speed T-400 Mech Speedo.
Replaces 4" tailhousing.
Big block Chevy and GMC.
Part #3D0401A
Automatic 3-Speed T-400 Elec Speedo.
Replaces 4" tailhousing.
88-91 3/4 and 1 ton with electronic speedometer.
Getting closer now. TH400 built with manual valve body and custome converter, Gear Vendors OD unit, Donato Engineering bellhousing (http://www.racingsolutions.com/Templates/frmTemplatem7.asp?SubFolderID=0012&SearchYN=N) custom length driveshaft, shifter, and I think the rest is labour, surely not??
Which one is better suited?
Part #3D0400A
Automatic 3-Speed T-400 Mech Speedo.
Replaces 4" tailhousing.
Big block Chevy and GMC.
Part #3D0401A
Automatic 3-Speed T-400 Elec Speedo.
Replaces 4" tailhousing.
88-91 3/4 and 1 ton with electronic speedometer.
Getting closer now. TH400 built with manual valve body and custome converter, Gear Vendors OD unit, Donato Engineering bellhousing (http://www.racingsolutions.com/Templates/frmTemplatem7.asp?SubFolderID=0012&SearchYN=N) custom length driveshaft, shifter, and I think the rest is labour, surely not??
Last edited:
Scrambler1
Full Access Member
Well if you want a real 4 speed auto I'd honestly go with a Chevy 4L80e which is essentially an electronic version of the TH400 with overdrive (also same bellhousing). Can still be made to be very strong, just not quite as strong as the TH400. You still stay with your stock ECU so all gauges, lights, ac, etc work. The tranny would be controlled by a stand alone computer where you can adjust shift points however you like or even make it act like a manual valve body.
If you plan to use any tranny as a manual valve body I'd go with an aftermarket shifter. In my case we're building a console to mount it where it's convenient and within reach. This frees you from issues with the stock shifter in the column as the PND321 on the dash. Console also gives me places for other switches like fuel pump, fans, linelock, intercooler water pump.
As for your shifting question a true manual valve body is the ultimate answer. Shifts as quick as you can pull the shifter.
If you plan to use any tranny as a manual valve body I'd go with an aftermarket shifter. In my case we're building a console to mount it where it's convenient and within reach. This frees you from issues with the stock shifter in the column as the PND321 on the dash. Console also gives me places for other switches like fuel pump, fans, linelock, intercooler water pump.
As for your shifting question a true manual valve body is the ultimate answer. Shifts as quick as you can pull the shifter.
Scrambler1
Full Access Member
As for which GV unit our trucks pick up the speedo from the axle not the tranny. They should be able to tell you exactly which one. If you can't figure it out let me know and I'll call the shop that has my truck and get them to read the model number off the box.
I'm using mine strictly for OD. I don't like real high HP through any standard OD tranny.
I'm using mine strictly for OD. I don't like real high HP through any standard OD tranny.
FerrariTruck
Full Access Member
Scrambler1 said:
yep a 4l80e is a good option. right above the th400 with a gear vendors. essentially the same as a 400 plus elec and 4thgear
Thanks mate, very good info and nice to know someone is doing something somewhat similar albeit auto-to-auto. I have the console there already so don't have to go down that road, as far as I know. Guess it depends on what shifter I get and how high the stick is. Have you got as far as placing the TH400 into the tunnel yet? Just wondering what the size difference is, the T56 is quite bulky so you'd think the TH400 would have stacks of room in there. What shifters have you considered using? Detent style or ratchet? I will go with a full manual valve body. If I'm losing the manual trans (fun) I still want full control and no auto function to keep the fun levels high. I'm thinking detent is the way to go, due to the MVB. Having to go back down to 1st on most occasions from 3, ratcheting up and down seems a little stupid to me. Where as a proper detent style shifter you just pull back/push forward to first and continue up/down the line.Scrambler1 said:
Thanks everyone.
Big Worm
Full Access Member
Carl,
I am reading everything you have said on here. But do not get rid of the her.
I am reading everything you have said on here. But do not get rid of the her.
AZBLACKMONSOON
Full Access Member
How about a 4L80E that is 6 speeds. I thought about this for my Lightning excluding the paddle shift option. http://www.compperformancegroupstor...e_Code=TC&Product_Code=271600P&Category_Code=
Scrambler1
Full Access Member
Carlwalski said:Thanks mate, very good info and nice to know someone is doing something somewhat similar albeit auto-to-auto. I have the console there already so don't have to go down that road, as far as I know. Guess it depends on what shifter I get and how high the stick is. Have you got as far as placing the TH400 into the tunnel yet? Just wondering what the size difference is, the T56 is quite bulky so you'd think the TH400 would have stacks of room in there. What shifters have you considered using? Detent style or ratchet? I will go with a full manual valve body. If I'm losing the manual trans (fun) I still want full control and no auto function to keep the fun levels high. I'm thinking detent is the way to go, due to the MVB. Having to go back down to 1st on most occasions from 3, ratcheting up and down seems a little stupid to me. Where as a proper detent style shifter you just pull back/push forward to first and continue up/down the line.
Thanks everyone.
Yep it's bolted in place. The 400 is MUCH smaller than the 48re that was in it. Compared the the T56 it's going to be narrower through the body but after you put a gearvendors behind it your overall length may be pretty close to the same.
I haven't decided on exactly which shifter I want yet. Definitely staying away from ratchet shifters as I will still drive it on the street. I went with a reverse manual valve body so first gear is first and then pull back for two and three. I just prefer to pull back on the track rather than push forward. Also I'll be running a transbrake so I want a button on the handle for that. I need to decide in a week or two I guess.
Thanks mate. RMVBs definitely make more sense, it's the natural momentum when racing. Power = pushed back into the seat, pull back. Under hard braking you lean forward = push forward to down shift. I agree on the ratchet shifters, too clunky and "cheap" IMO. A good old school style detent is all that is needed. Just need to make sure you/we don't overshift lol. So far, the Hurst Pistol Grip Quarter Stick is winning me over. Looks good (I may paint it black?) but is a detent and fool proof set up. PLUS, it comes standard with a 10amp, 12v switch on top, which I would use for the GVs OD. Nice to hear the TH400 is smaller, the GVs tail shaft on the TH400 should be fine, fitment wise. Do you have any photos? I sure wouldn't mind seeing a few if you could and don't mind people seeing it before it's finished. No dramas if you can't or are keeping it on the DL.Scrambler1 said:
OK guys, I am set on the TH400. I thought the trouble would be finding one, especially shipping back to New Zealand. BUT, I have found some locally in NZ. What do used/built TH400s usually go for and what year, model # is the best, or should I be looking for? Here are some nice local ones from used $800 to pro built with goodies for $4,500 (asking). I won't go to USA for the trans, more money and the dollar is low. 1 Kiwi dollar buys US .55, so double the price + shipping for anything I need, it f#%ken sucks lol (has been up to .80 in the past few years). Just need to know what I get is the best trans/year. What questions do I need to ask the sellers to confirm this stuff?
Thanks!
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...es/Chevrolet/Gear-boxes/auction-215272634.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Chevrolet/Other/auction-216215078.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...es/Chevrolet/Gear-boxes/auction-215842067.htm
Thanks!
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...es/Chevrolet/Gear-boxes/auction-215272634.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Chevrolet/Other/auction-216215078.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-M...es/Chevrolet/Gear-boxes/auction-215842067.htm
505'sFastestViper.
Full Access Member
200r4 like in the gns can handle over a 1000 built by art carr trans brake you be good to go ........
505'sFastestViper.
Full Access Member
oh and it is a 4 speed
The whole idea is RC/6 speed...... why re-invent the wheel....?
From what I hear the auto-trans is a POS that has to have be serious money dumped into it to handle any kind of real power anyway.....
WTF over....?
D
From what I hear the auto-trans is a POS that has to have be serious money dumped into it to handle any kind of real power anyway.....
WTF over....?
D
Why is it the "whole idea"? Because Chrysler said so? :laugh: The RCs are arse on the track, lets face it. When a QC is doing 10.73 with all that extra weight somethings a miss. A good suspension set up, good hp and a well built auto will (TO ME) offer some massive performance gains. Not as fun in daily driving but who cares lol. I answered most of your "questions" in my first post. Different strokes for different folks. Why black out an 06 Ram, why throw over 1,300hp at one of these, why do this, why do that? Part of this hobby is customizing and doing things differently. It's not going to be everyone's cup of tea but neither are A cups or Canon printers. In this hobby......there are no rules.Django said:
NBT
Full Access Member
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I got a TH-400 in my garage if you want it. The cryo fellas had it and wanted to get it out of the shed...not sure what it would cost to ship it:dontknow:
Not sure if it would work for you...needs cleaned up...supposed to be a good tranny, but you would be rebuilding it anyhow... I don't want anything for it...just cover shipping.
Not sure if it would work for you...needs cleaned up...supposed to be a good tranny, but you would be rebuilding it anyhow... I don't want anything for it...just cover shipping.
Begood
Full Access Member
This is the shifter I have in my Duster, I really love it.Carlwalski said:Thanks mate. RMVBs definitely make more sense, it's the natural momentum when racing. Power = pushed back into the seat, pull back. Under hard braking you lean forward = push forward to down shift. I agree on the ratchet shifters, too clunky and "cheap" IMO. A good old school style detent is all that is needed. Just need to make sure you/we don't overshift lol. So far, the Hurst Pistol Grip Quarter Stick is winning me over. Looks good (I may paint it black?) but is a detent and fool proof set up. PLUS, it comes standard with a 10amp, 12v switch on top, which I would use for the GVs OD. Nice to hear the TH400 is smaller, the GVs tail shaft on the TH400 should be fine, fitment wise. Do you have any photos? I sure wouldn't mind seeing a few if you could and don't mind people seeing it before it's finished. No dramas if you can't or are keeping it on the DL.
Bill.
Dang, thanks mate, that's a mighty fine offer but I think I will stay local, for shipping costs and ease, etc. Thanks all the same, it's much appreciated.NBT said:
I guess all I need to find out/reasearch is how many variations of the TH400 are there. Just so I don't end up buying the wrong one (ie: small block, weaker year, etc).Thanks Bill, nice to know. Could you see it being a pain in the arse when using it with a manual valve body? Becuase you're shifting more than normal with a MVB? Can you please confirm how it's engaged? I've seen/heard of 2 different shifting styles lol. Is it push up to 2nd (no trigger), then push up to 3rd (using trigger)? Can you shift past 3rd while holding the trigger and into N? I know it (like most/all) cable shifters has a reverse lockout so that's sweet. If I could, I'd like to use something like the E-Bodies "Slap-Stik", easy, simple and very effective.Begood said:
Cheers!
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