Roe or paxton supercharger??

Slitherbeast said:
When you know you will be FI, Just build the engine with the proper mechanical compression ratio for the boost level you are trying to run at. that way you won't have to fight the garbage fuel they provide at the pump! Meth injection is dirty,messy and extremely inconsistent way to control detonation and very difficult to tune . the pumps don't last long. You are looking for trouble using meth . so , bottomline, supercharging on a stock engine, keep the boost down. start saving to rebuild the engine . then build it with the boost level in mind and avoid meth completely ....just my 2 cents...
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I would def recommend a built motor for boost. And as far as meth goes I am going to have it written into a race tune to use at the track. I should be fine on the street that's the only way I would recommend using it I could be wrong
 
Yellow venom said:
If you seen the inside of my intake ports/valves from running water/meth Boost Juice,you would change your mind on using water/meth,ask Slitherbeast he seen in them!!:(
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This has me curious now since I run the Roe but so far I have only run the methanol boost once with the high octane tune. Everything else has been with the low octane tune and no methanol. What exactly are you seeing in the intake? I pulled the supercharger shortly after I installed it to correct a vacuum leak and found alot of black sticky goo. Turned out being the fuel eating away the gasket material that I used to seal the Roe 5 piece intake. I contacted Roe and they recommended a differant sealant and haven't seen any problems since.
 
seethrough said:
This has me curious now since I run the Roe but so far I have only run the methanol boost once with the high octane tune. Everything else has been with the low octane tune and no methanol. What exactly are you seeing in the intake? I pulled the supercharger shortly after I installed it to correct a vacuum leak and found alot of black sticky goo. Turned out being the fuel eating away the gasket material that I used to seal the Roe 5 piece intake. I contacted Roe and they recommended a differant sealant and haven't seen any problems since.
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It looked like oil residue all over in intake,was sticky and waxy like and in the intake ports all over the back side of valves is black sludge looking deposit all over them built up.
I had pics but lost them all when my phone crashed a couple weeks ago, I will get more this spring when I pull the intake off.
 
leave the intake on!!!! drive that damn truck already!!!! :chain::(
 
Paxton > Roe all day. No way in hell I'd put a blower on anything without an intercooler. It's care free, safer and more power. Sure it doesn't have the low end hit of a twin screw but that's fine. Gearing, set up and other factors can get it off the line at the track.

I like bobby's set up with his Paxton. That's much more power than your average RC will put down at the track.
 
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I know this is a roe vrs Paxton thread but the procharger setup from jmb is much better. I bought the roe because I only want to go fast enough to get kicked off the track(faster than 11.50). I won't put a cage in this truck. So I went for show and go but if I was looking for the most hp I could get or fastest track time it would be procharger not Paxton.
 
fastestbrickonearth said:
I know this is a roe vrs Paxton thread but the procharger setup from jmb is much better. I bought the roe because I only want to go fast enough to get kicked off the track(faster than 11.50). I won't put a cage in this truck. So I went for show and go but if I was looking for the most hp I could get or fastest track time it would be procharger not Paxton.
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Hell ya, finally someone who has a Roe or Paxton is getting it.
 
I would say a Paxton (for cost reasons) if you are 100% sure youll never want anything beyond 650whp and always intend to have a stock engine. It can make a little more than that but requires changing some stuff around to do it, which obviously costs more. If you are doing an engine build, I dont see any reason to limit yourself, you can easily make much more power with one of my supercharger setups without spending much more than the Paxton (new vs. new pricing).
Justin
 
JMB Justin said:
I would say a Paxton (for cost reasons) if you are 100% sure youll never want anything beyond 650whp and always intend to have a stock engine. It can make a little more than that but requires changing some stuff around to do it, which obviously costs more. If you are doing an engine build, I dont see any reason to limit yourself, you can easily make much more power with one of my supercharger setups without spending much more than the Paxton (new vs. new pricing).
Justin
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What's the air flow difference between the Paxton and the F1 and F2 blowers? There's a few things ALOT of guys don't realize is you don't need big boost to make big power, if you have a bigger blower with 5psi boost it will make more power then a smaller blower putting out 5psi boost!
 
Yellow venom said:
What's the air flow difference between the Paxton and the F1 and F2 blowers? There's a few things ALOT of guys don't realize is you don't need big boost to make big power, if you have a bigger blower with 5psi boost it will make more power then a smaller blower putting out 5psi boost!
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A Novi 2000 is rated at 1400cfm, however the reverse roation obviously is stronger than the standard rotation for some reason (vipers routinely make 850+whp with it). I think 1400cfm is generous for the standard rotation one supplied in the truck kits simply because no one can get past 700ish whp with one, regardless of boost. The F1C is rated at 1850cfm and the F2 at 2800CFM. The F2 is noticably harder to drive than the F1C, hence the reason I dont recommend unless you are 900+whp (it will make less power at lower boost levels than a F1C). Boost is definitely not boost regardless of the misinformation that has been spread by others on here.
Justin
 
JMB Justin said:
A Novi 2000 is rated at 1400cfm, however the reverse roation obviously is stronger than the standard rotation for some reason (vipers routinely make 850+whp with it). I think 1400cfm is generous for the standard rotation one supplied in the truck kits simply because no one can get past 700ish whp with one, regardless of boost. The F1C is rated at 1850cfm and the F2 at 2800CFM. The F2 is noticably harder to drive than the F1C, hence the reason I dont recommend unless you are 900+whp (it will make less power at lower boost levels than a F1C). Boost is definitely not boost regardless of the misinformation that has been spread by others on here.
Justin
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So with the F1 and F2 big difference in capabilities,if you had an engine lets say that blue one and it's got an F1 what difference in power would there be if you bolted up an F2 to it running same size pullies?? Will the F2 put out more power on it being it will be getting more less compressed air easier?
 
Yellow venom said:
So with the F1 and F2 big difference in capabilities,if you had an engine lets say that blue one and it's got an F1 what difference in power would there be if you bolted up an F2 to it running same size pullies?? Will the F2 put out more power on it being it will be getting more less compressed air easier?
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Using the same size pulleys, an F2 would literally make 30+ psi (Ram From Hell is using a 1" bigger blower pulley and 1" smaller crank puller vs. to make 14psi, with Strikers and a Hogan no less!). At the same boost level however the F1C would make more power since the F2 requires extra power to turn (and the F1C is well within its efficiency range). The F2 takes so much power to turn, even a 12rib serpentine would maybe make 5psi max. You would break the belt or the end of the crank off before you got 10psi with it on a serpentine setup lol.
Justin
 
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