Max N/A power from Gen 3

Wastelands Warrior

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Needless to say, Trainman has set the bar for n/a power, but I was wondering what kind of numbers could be had with a more conventional n/a build, as in utilizing the Gen 3 heads and intake.
 
A Striker headed Gen 3 could match Jerry's max power levels. Keep in mind that Jerry's build isn't a "max effort" build. All people involved have worked to make sure it's a street able combo that will work well in Jerry's 4400 pound truck.
 
A Striker headed Gen 3 could match Jerry's max power levels. Keep in mind that Jerry's build isn't a "max effort" build. All people involved have worked to make sure it's a street able combo that will work well in Jerry's 4400 pound truck.

I should have been more specific and stated a streetable big power build. And dice Strykers are made of unobtainium, I'd like to know what could be obtained with Gen 3 heads and intakes.
 
I remember something about a Viper guy who spent close to if not $100K on his NA engine build that yielded somewhere around 1000 crank HP but not sure where I read that. Maybe someone else can confirm this.
 
I don't know if there is a correct answer to your question.

If you are working with really great heads and they have good supplemental parts, you will make really good power.

There is still a 50 horsepower difference between a really well ported set of Gen III heads and a set of UNPORTED Street Strikers, for example.

Heads are what make the power.

On that, it would be interesting to see what kind of power Dom's engine produced if you replace the existing (and UNPORTED) Striker-Rs with some ported Gen IIIs or ported Gen IVs.
There would be an enormous loss.
 
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Ok, so let's say I want a streetable G3 n/a engine that will utilize ported G3 heads and intake, forged internals, and a good cam. Built by a reputable shop. What kind of wheels numbers can be had?
 
Ok, so let's say I want a streetable G3 n/a engine that will utilize ported G3 heads and intake, forged internals, and a good cam. Built by a reputable shop. What kind of wheels numbers can be had?

Just make a number up.
 
530 wheel would be reasonable.

But now that there is a number posted, the vendor war will begin and you should be up to 700 wheel by this evening, NO PROBLEM !!! :)
 
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The highest I've seen on just a heads/cam viper is about 645rwhp. Seems like trucks have beenr ight at 600rwhp, part of the lower numbers are drive line related and I'd guess a few more due to different cam specs. So max effort I'd guess 625ish with a streetable setup.
 
The real question is how long do you want it sitting in a shop waiting for parts




You better have your parts ready to go with an extra 15-20k in the bank for those...... "an you need a new....."
 
For a 6 speed, high 500's SAE on a dynojet without going nuts on everything and a cam that doesn't sacrifice bottom end torque. That would be full bolt on's and ported stock heads/intake and custom cam. Don't get too caught up in peak #'s as its easy to make a big number if you give away the bottom end (where a truck needs it most).
Justin
 
My Motor Was Built At A&C Performance , Fully Built , Best Parts , His Cam And Stage 3 Ported Stock Heads And Intake , And Best Pull Was 540 At The Wheels, He Say's Drive Train Loss Is About 20%, On The Trucks ,Vipers Less, He Did Say There Was More, But Left It At That .
 
without heads and the right combination we have made 525 to 560 rwhp all day long, with heads so far 600-630 hasn't been a problem,
but the right combination and compression have to be together, 20-30 can be as easy as a head gasket swap
sorry too busy to list all of ours
 
My Motor Was Built At A&C Performance , Fully Built , Best Parts , His Cam And Stage 3 Ported Stock Heads And Intake , And Best Pull Was 540 At The Wheels, He Say's Drive Train Loss Is About 20%, On The Trucks ,Vipers Less, He Did Say There Was More, But Left It At That .

Your power number is completely realistic with the mods listed (ported heads, h.p. cam, etc.). I'm assuming pump gas is being used here and the pulls were on a Dynojet...

Autos typically do show a lower number than the manuals but if your automatic equipped engine build favours torque production over high r.p.m. horsepower (cam choice here is big), the difference in street performance between the 2 is negligible.

Way more fun producing the torque in the heavier trucks (and better mileage).

As long as your having fun. :burnout:
 
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Your power number is completely realistic with the mods listed (ported heads, h.p. cam, etc.). I'm assuming pump gas is being used here and the pulls were on a Dynojet...

Autos typically do show a lower number than the manuals but if your automatic equipped engine build favours torque production over high r.p.m. horsepower (cam choice here is big), the difference in street performance between the 2 is negligible.

Way more fun producing the torque in the heavier trucks (and better mileage).

As long as your having fun. :burnout:
I would assume the limiting factor in a build like this is the intake manifold?
 
Not much to gain porting a Gen III intake. Maybe 25 HP (Max) BUT there is a corresponding drop in TQ because the passages are now bigger and lose some velocity.
It depends what you want.
 
Not much to gain porting a Gen III intake. Maybe 25 HP (Max) BUT there is a corresponding drop in TQ because the passages are now bigger and lose some velocity.
It depends what you want.

so if ya want to keep the TQ up on a truck app. a good port match would be the best for a Gen III intake???
 
so if ya want to keep the TQ up on a truck app. a good port match would be the best for a Gen III intake???

You can zip cut the tops off and radius the port mouths (also porting downwards from there) but it can be a little bitchy welding them back on without warping. It is THE BEST and most complete way to port though.

Otherwise, gasket-match as far up the runners as you possibly can and finish with an extrude hone (optional).

The velocity will DROP right at the port exit if you simply gasket match the port only, say 1" into the port. Just when you WANT the air to be at a good velocity, it will drop when it hits the larger cross sectional area. That is bad. It is also a waste of time.

So, once again, port AS far up the runner as you can. Like productions heads, there is not a great deal of material to work with so proceed slowly. If you pierce a wall or floor, you can JB Weld or use a TIG welder. Grab an inside mic, grind and check, grind and check.

A hundred hours later you can marvel at your work.

Leave the surface rough. Don't polish or it creates extra drag.

Gen III porting 101 :)
 
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Someone check my bench-racer math: A port that flows 285cfm at 28", on a 505cid V10, should be good for 670+hp. Subtract 30hp for accessories (I made that number up, so any read data is welcome) and an additional 13% for RC SRT10-like drivetrain losses, and a stock Gen III head should support around 550rwhp, correct? Based on that, a fully ported Gen III head (330cfm @ 28") should be good for right around an additional 93rwhp.
 
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