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I must also agree. Every question I have asked he has answered honestly and to the best of his abilities. Request a mod to remove the post that started this as it is incorrect and off topic.

Worked.

Wow, haven't been on the forum now for a couple of months. I have missed alot. Looking forward to seeing your newest results.....

I was always kind of partial to my SNCO evening dress. Never could afford the cape though........:D

Well I seem to be right on schedule then. For completion in 2014! Woohoo or does that now make it 2026? :D

I am definitely going for the Evans coolant if I can ever get this thing built.

Both theoretically move 3.3L per rev. That does not take into account air leaking around the rotors or decreased density due to heat. Whipple moves more cfm from theirs by spinning them faster (up to 7k more rpm). The performance sheet that you can get from lyscholm's site is for the rear fed...

Displacing the same amount of air but at what efficiency? I think that is where the total capacity of the blowers (in cfm/rpm) makes up the difference.

One thing I must say is that you are meticulous with the personalization of your BatRam. I wouldn't be surprised if you got custom bolts/tools that used the BAT and then had them all clocked to the right position with custom thickness washers!

Turning no, I am not worried at all, it is an open diff in AWD mode. Really the biggest deal can be caused by binding when you have a couple of low tires or the tire height is off by more than a 1/4". Now I feel that I can turn the power up as much as I want (or can afford) without worrying...

I appreciate it. With a 5" span between the deck and the bottom of the block I feel a short fill (~1/2 way) would greatly increase the strength of the cylinders (along with the sleeves). The negative that I have heard about was increased oil temps on street builds due to the lack of cooling to...

Can finally check one thing off the list. Now I am moving on to the engine side of things. Deck plates and sleeves are next on the list. Have decided on using dry sleeves as it is considerably cheaper to have made and will leave more of the blocks structual integrity. This will still allow...

Alright here are the before after pics. Before: After:

It is not the HP but the TQ I am worried about. The Durango's is rated at 1486ft/lbs in a 5,500lb GVW. The H1 is 2340ft/lbs in a 11,500lb GVW. With the TQ mulitplication of the Converter and Tranny I could easily exceed its rated input capacity with a slightly modified V-10. With the H1's...

A little more progress. Finally got the H1 parts in. I will be completing the T-Case rebuild this weekend. Here are a couple of pics showing the differences in sprocket/chain size between the Hummer and Durango. H1 sprockets to the right and its chain is the lower one. Better angle...

Didn't know you said that. Skipped some of the posts before I hit reply! :o

The sound I get is air bouncing back after hitting the throttle body. I have the lowly D1 and at idle it is ridiculous how much air it moved. Even with the bypass I would read ~4psi (needle bouncing) on the intake side of the TB with the throttle closed (at idle). The only time I get the...

I had the same problem when I relocated my factory battery to the rear as I made a new tray for my odyssey battery. My problem was too high of a guage wire for the distance/current I was moving.

I noticed that with my Procharger there was a certain RPM that "whined" considerably louder than everywhere else. Remember it being around 65mph cruising. Not that I spent much time there, I was either faster (interstate) or slower (in town traffic). How do you like that chichichi sound when...

Very impressive numbers, looking forward to seeing the dyno sheets!