Any Questions?

[rottenronnie]

Tunes make an enormous difference to an untuned Quad Cab, but not as much for the Regular Cabs. Bang for the buck for a QC is second to none.

Personally, I wouldn't enjoy driving a QC unless it had a good tune.

As far as power goes, Torque numbers rise 80 lbs. Ft. in the QC and less in the RC.
That doesn't mean 80 gets added to the final (highest or peak) torque number, but gets added on the way to that number. Its been too many years to remember but let's say the increase in Torque comes in between 3400 and 4600 rpm.

That makes the increase in power during acceleration, very noticeable and useful.

QC Torque Management is (or can be) removed as well, with a tune. That way, engine power is applied during the shifts. Most Tuners simply incorporate this into the tune (shutting Torque Management OFF), and if you have it done to a QC, don't tow with your truck up hills at wide-open throttle or your transmission will (sooner than later) complain.

If you don't tow at wide-open throttle with your QC, feel free to have Torque Management shut off. It will give your rear tires something to do, particularly during the 1-2 shift.

Shift point r.p.m. (auto trans) can also be raised for wide-open throttle. Mine is set at 200 km/hr. (roughly 125 miles per hour), for the 3-4 shift. The factory shift point is too early and the engine is forced to operate at a lower than optimum r.p.m. right when the truck is plowing into considerable "wind".

Other parameters can also be tweaked such as fan duty cycles, idle speed, knock sensor behavior (Sensitivity, On or Off) and other things, via tuning.

You purchase a handheld controller (from your Tuner) that will contain the tunes from them, based on their expertise and what you have for mods (if any). The more information you provide, the better chance for a great tune.

The controller containing your new tune(s) is then plugged into your OBD II port near the lower edge of the dash, near the steering column.

Once it's plugged in, follow the instructions which is a few key On key Off cycles. Easy Peasy, and it only takes a few minutes to complete.

Chris Jensen does all my tuning and I find his tunes the highest in overall quality compared with the (3) other Tuners I've tried.

Hope this helps.

 

[05 Red]

Got a question about the tune. I've looked at his website a few times and want to get a tune. Which one are you running, and was it plug and play, or do you have to be a software wizard to install? Once installed, what difference did you notice, and did you gain any horsepower?

I'd be interested in a tune also, just wondering if the Trans in the QC's should be worked on if going for a tune also ? I plan on pulling mine and doing some billet internals regardless.

 

[rottenronnie]

The stock autos wont be killed by a tune alone, unless they aren't in great shape when you install your tune.

A very good idea might be to adjust both bands (particularly the Inner Low/Reverse band) which is part of good maintenance, before you add your tune.


And unless it is dark, REUSE the fluid, being careful to strain out any particles that may be in it. The funnels specifically for filling Autos, normally have a decent screen in them but I add a cloth anyway.

New fluid is high in detergent (compared to the fluid that has likely been in there a while) and it's never a good idea to add too much to a transmission using original worn-in, friction parts; i.e. bands and clutches.

The new fluid often cleans off the old band/clutch material and, well, you don't want that..
If those newly released particles plug the TINY screens on the Governors, your tranny will lose clamping pressure, slip badly and die a horrible death.

 

[Kiwi SRT10]

Thanks as usual Ronnie, The IAC, TPS, are new. I've been chasing this problem for 2 years. I'm running a tune from Torri at Unleashed Tuning, I should probably reach out to him.

I found that if my battery wasn't real full it would upset the idle controller on crank up. Reset ECM as per Ronnie I found if I keep the truck locked the battery doesn't go flat as quick and now days I have a solar panel trickle feeding to keep battery topped up when not in use for awhile. No more problem.

 

[Kiwi SRT10]

Got a question about the tune. I've looked at his website a few times and want to get a tune. Which one are you running, and was it plug and play, or do you have to be a software wizard to install? Once installed, what difference did you notice, and did you gain any horsepower?

I have a Torrie Tune. I am real happy with it. Mine is on my laptop through HP Tuners and VCM Suite. When I finally put it on a dyno the outfit in Christchurch are the local VCM Suite dealers so we tickled it a bit to give more advance on light pedal at lowish revs (highway cruise) bit like the old vacuum advance days. They found there was room for more advance at WOT at the higher revs as it was reduced to play safe until it can be dynoed. 485 RWHP on his dyno which he said reads 15% less than the others. He reckons it would be 557 RWHP which he said would make it about 630HP. Being a little more conservative I am absolutely sure I have at least 600HP which previous owner had proudly badged the rear. Getting the power on the ground can be slightly tricky. Jump on the gas in 1st will result in smoke, arm full of steering wheel looking like a Mustang hahaha

 

[rottenronnie]

I have a Torrie Tune. I am real happy with it. Mine is on my laptop through HP Tuners and VCM Suite. When I finally put it on a dyno the outfit in Christchurch are the local VCM Suite dealers so we tickled it a bit to give more advance on light pedal at lowish revs (highway cruise) bit like the old vacuum advance days. They found there was room for more advance at WOT at the higher revs as it was reduced to play safe until it can be dynoed. 485 RWHP on his dyno which he said reads 15% less than the others. He reckons it would be 557 RWHP which he said would make it about 630HP. Being a little more conservative I am absolutely sure I have at least 600HP which previous owner had proudly badged the rear. Getting the power on the ground can be slightly tricky. Jump on the gas in 1st will result in smoke, arm full of steering wheel looking like a Mustang hahaha

Nice to be able to tweak the tunes through VCM. The tunes in the handheld controllers or those sent via email for the controllers are locked down HARD.

600+ wheel is a lot of power and has a very high fun factor!

Yes, a bit of advance can make a world of difference during part throttle. We dialed in some extra advance on mine early and up top as well, but it wanted to rattle as soon as it got up on the cam and we had to tread carefully!
I'm using different heads than you so it is "the same only different" when it comes to tuning requirements. Im also a full 11:1 but you are at sea-level.

A balancing act between de-sensitizing the knock sensors and a bit more fuel to cool things off in there helped to keep all the parts inside the block for my engine.

The autos in QC are power Vampires and its approx. 17% harder to obtain the high wheel dyno numbers compared to a stick.

I REALLY miss being able to tweak a distributor and carburetor.

 

[rottenronnie]

I found that if my battery wasn't real full it would upset the idle controller on crank up. Reset ECM as per Ronnie I found if I keep the truck locked the battery doesn't go flat as quick and now days I have a solar panel trickle feeding to keep battery topped up when not in use for awhile. No more problem.

That's a bit odd...but if it works, it works!

 

[AMS3]

Tunes make an enormous difference to an untuned Quad Cab, but not as much for the Regular Cabs. Bang for the buck for a QC is second to none.

Personally, I wouldn't enjoy driving a QC unless it had a good tune.

As far as power goes, Torque numbers rise 80 lbs. Ft. in the QC and less in the RC.
That doesn't mean 80 gets added to the final (highest or peak) torque number, but gets added on the way to that number. Its been too many years to remember but let's say the increase in Torque comes in between 3400 and 4600 rpm.

That makes the increase in power during acceleration, very noticeable and useful.

QC Torque Management is (or can be) removed as well, with a tune. That way, engine power is applied during the shifts. Most Tuners simply incorporate this into the tune (shutting Torque Management OFF), and if you have it done to a QC, don't tow with your truck up hills at wide-open throttle or your transmission will (sooner than later) complain.

If you don't tow at wide-open throttle with your QC, feel free to have Torque Management shut off. It will give your rear tires something to do, particularly during the 1-2 shift.

Shift point r.p.m. (auto trans) can also be raised for wide-open throttle. Mine is set at 200 km/hr. (roughly 125 miles per hour), for the 3-4 shift. The factory shift point is too early and the engine is forced to operate at a lower than optimum r.p.m. right when the truck is plowing into considerable "wind".

Other parameters can also be tweaked such as fan duty cycles, idle speed, knock sensor behavior (Sensitivity, On or Off) and other things, via tuning.

You purchase a handheld controller (from your Tuner) that will contain the tunes from them, based on their expertise and what you have for mods (if any). The more information you provide, the better chance for a great tune.

The controller containing your new tune(s) is then plugged into your OBD II port near the lower edge of the dash, near the steering column.

Once it's plugged in, follow the instructions which is a few key On key Off cycles. Easy Peasy, and it only takes a few minutes to complete.

Chris Jensen does all my tuning and I find his tunes the highest in overall quality compared with the (3) other Tuners I've tried.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info, Ronnie! What's Chris's shop name?

 

[AMS3]

I'd be interested in a tune also, just wondering if the Trans in the QC's should be worked on if going for a tune also ? I plan on pulling mine and doing some billet internals regardless.

I had mine rebuilt about a year and a half ago, with some upgraded parts, and a Transco shift kit. When stomping on the gas from a dead stop, it will bark the tires when shifting into second gear.

 

[rottenronnie]

Thanks for the info, Ronnie! What's Chris's shop name?

[email protected]

 

[rottenronnie]

I had mine rebuilt about a year and a half ago, with some upgraded parts, and a Transco shift kit. When stomping on the gas from a dead stop, it will bark the tires when shifting into second gear.

They are quite tough AFTER they've received some help. I've been "testing" mine for 8 years now.

 

[AMS3]

[email protected]

Thanks!

 

[Tincup]

Any progress??

Hey Ronnie,
In an unrelated incident, my truck died on me the other night while I was testing my throttle stop adjustment. Turned out to be a wiring mistake on my part. Anyway, what should an Auto idle at in drive? I'm about 700ish, seams a little low. I was thinking of bumping it up to 800.

 

[AMS3]

Hey Ronnie,
In an unrelated incident, my truck died on me the other night while I was testing my throttle stop adjustment. Turned out to be a wiring mistake on my part. Anyway, what should an Auto idle at in drive? I'm about 700ish, seams a little low. I was thinking of bumping it up to 800.

Tincup, how's that rod you built doing these days?

 

[rottenronnie]

Hey Ronnie,
In an unrelated incident, my truck died on me the other night while I was testing my throttle stop adjustment. Turned out to be a wiring mistake on my part. Anyway, what should an Auto idle at in drive? I'm about 700ish, seams a little low. I was thinking of bumping it up to 800.

The idle speed is controlled via software (ie.Tune) and not the screw on the throttle body.

The Idle Air Control Valve will keep it idling at the same speed whether in Drive or Nuetral or Park.

700 is fine.
So is 800.

It is somewhat of a preference.

 

[Tincup]

Tincup, how's that rod you built doing these days?

Good, Thanks

 

[Tincup]

The idle speed is controlled via software (ie.Tune) and not the screw on the throttle body.

The Idle Air Control Valve will keep it idling at the same speed whether in Drive or Nuetral or Park.

700 is fine.
So is 800.

It is somewhat of a preference.

I decided to split the difference, had Torrie bump it to750, also removed the TB and adjusted it on the bench, definitely running better.

 

[AMS3]

Tunes make an enormous difference to an untuned Quad Cab, but not as much for the Regular Cabs. Bang for the buck for a QC is second to none.

Personally, I wouldn't enjoy driving a QC unless it had a good tune.

As far as power goes, Torque numbers rise 80 lbs. Ft. in the QC and less in the RC.
That doesn't mean 80 gets added to the final (highest or peak) torque number, but gets added on the way to that number. Its been too many years to remember but let's say the increase in Torque comes in between 3400 and 4600 rpm.

That makes the increase in power during acceleration, very noticeable and useful.

QC Torque Management is (or can be) removed as well, with a tune. That way, engine power is applied during the shifts. Most Tuners simply incorporate this into the tune (shutting Torque Management OFF), and if you have it done to a QC, don't tow with your truck up hills at wide-open throttle or your transmission will (sooner than later) complain.

If you don't tow at wide-open throttle with your QC, feel free to have Torque Management shut off. It will give your rear tires something to do, particularly during the 1-2 shift.

Shift point r.p.m. (auto trans) can also be raised for wide-open throttle. Mine is set at 200 km/hr. (roughly 125 miles per hour), for the 3-4 shift. The factory shift point is too early and the engine is forced to operate at a lower than optimum r.p.m. right when the truck is plowing into considerable "wind".

Other parameters can also be tweaked such as fan duty cycles, idle speed, knock sensor behavior (Sensitivity, On or Off) and other things, via tuning.

You purchase a handheld controller (from your Tuner) that will contain the tunes from them, based on their expertise and what you have for mods (if any). The more information you provide, the better chance for a great tune.

The controller containing your new tune(s) is then plugged into your OBD II port near the lower edge of the dash, near the steering column.

Once it's plugged in, follow the instructions which is a few key On key Off cycles. Easy Peasy, and it only takes a few minutes to complete.

Chris Jensen does all my tuning and I find his tunes the highest in overall quality compared with the (3) other Tuners I've tried.

Hope this helps.

Ronnie, do you or anyone else happen to know the part number for the rear differential yoke seal? Mine's leaking pretty good, and the speed shop is having difficulty finding one. The rear is a Dana 60, right? My speed shop is telling me there's two pinion seals for it? So an inner and outer seal? Please confirm, either they are wrong, or confused. I found one seal at Timkin, but it provides two part numbers. One is not available. I've never heard of a rear end requiring two pinion seals.

 

[HemiLonestar]

https://www.vtcoa.com/threads/factory-service-and-parts-manuals.72230/

 

[AMS3]

https://www.vtcoa.com/threads/factory-service-and-parts-manuals.72230/

View attachment 65017

Thanks Hemi!