Any Questions?

[rottenronnie]

Dodge put it there in case the owner/operator forgot to buy condoms and things were really starting to become serious.

Just promise, like most guys do and don't worry about such devices.

The other reason is to prevent the brake fluid from becoming contaminated and acts as a floating barrier. Brake fluid is crazy good at pulling moisture from the air. Water is never a good thing inside a brake system.

 

[Michael from the U.K.]

Thanks Ronnie,thought I’d lost the rubber cap seal then found the “thing”,live and learn I guess.

 

[Shaggy]

Who wants to take over the Admin duties, I think it might be time to call it a day, week, year, decade+

Contact @Shaggy

Hope not!!

 

[Michael from the U.K.]

Took the ten to a local tyre shop to have the tracking (wheel alignment) checked after the winter project of front end rebuild.
They didn’t have the specifications on the computer ,can anyone let me have the manufacturers details please?

 

[HemiLonestar]

Took the ten to a local tyre shop to have the tracking (wheel alignment) checked after the winter project of front end rebuild.
They didn’t have the specifications on the computer ,can anyone let me have the manufacturers details please?

https://www.vtcoa.com/threads/factory-service-and-parts-manuals.72230/

 

[Michael from the U.K.]

Thanks HL,btw are you getting a D170?

 

[05 Red]

Actually yes i do, just wondering if anyone has any experience with a with these fog lights off AMZ ?
I've always felt like the factory fogs were a little bit under whelming.

COWONE LED Fog Lights with White DRL Compatible with Dodge Ram 1500 Ram 2500 3500 Durango Pickup Truck 2002-2009 Fog Lamps Replacement Black - Pair, Driving, Fog & Spot Lights - Amazon Canada

 

[HemiLonestar]

Thanks HL,btw are you getting a D170?

Ha! Challenger Demons make terrible street cars lol. If I could afford something like that I'd get a Trackhawk or a Redeye. Right now a new pier and lift was a tad more important (and cheaper LMAO!). I just liked the icon/badge as an avatar.

 

[rottenronnie]

Thanks HL,btw are you getting a D170?

Google needs to update their information, as a simple search for d170 comes up as a John Deere ride-on lawnmower.

 

[Michael from the U.K.]

I could afford one of those,and still having the bragging rights

 

[beastmode1]

See above.

Ronnie here is my dumb question, I have never changed my spart plugs on the NR today it turned 71k what would you recommend Champion or NGK and advise on the gapping.

 

[rottenronnie]

Personally, I like and use NGK plugs. Champions work, obviously, but they are an ancient design.

Gap them on the wide side (.038 ish), unless you are using forced induction and/or Nitrous in which case you may want to drop a heat range and gap them on the narrower side.

Don't use lube (like anti-sieze) during installation, because it acts as a heat-insulator and restricts the plug's ability to bail heat from the combustion chamber.

Either torque them at 20 lbs. ft. and forget about them OR keep trying each of the 10 plugs you bought and try and point the Electrode between 10 and 2 o'clock (a.k.a. indexing) which will provide a bit more power. Obviously, make sure the plugs are tight in that 10-2 range.

PS If you haven't changed them, your 19 year old (?) plug wires may have seen better days.

Advice on wires: I use stockers when I can.

Some guys like the thick wires that look like they could power a small town, but I've found they don't last any longer AND I've had more issues with some of those being defective (brand-new), than stockers.

Your results may vary.

 

[AMS3]

Personally, I like and use NGK plugs. Champions work, obviously, but they are an ancient design.

Gap them on the wide side (.038 ish), unless you are using forced induction and/or Nitrous in which case you may want to drop a heat range and gap them on the narrower side.

Don't use lube (like anti-sieze) during installation, because it acts as a heat-insulator and restricts the plug's ability to bail heat from the combustion chamber.

Either torque them at 20 lbs. ft. and forget about them OR keep trying each of the 10 plugs you bought and try and point the Electrode between 10 and 2 o'clock (a.k.a. indexing) which will provide a bit more power. Obviously, make sure the plugs are tight in that 10-2 range.

PS If you haven't changed them, your 19 year old (?) plug wires may have seen better days.

Advice on wires: I use stockers when I can.

Some guys like the thick wires that look like they could power a small town, but I've found they don't last any longer AND I've had more issues with some of those being defective (brand-new), than stockers.

Your results may vary.

Good info about the wires, thanks Ronnie.

 

[rottenronnie]

Good info about the wires, thanks Ronnie.

You be welcome.

I'm sure there are many that have had great luck with general aftermarket stuff.
I'm just not one of them.

 

[Tincup]

Throttle Body Question. There is a screw on the throttle body that stops the blade when closing, is that all it's for? I have been having trouble with the motor stumbling ( and stalling ) on deceleration. I adjusted that screw out a turn or two and it seems a little better, or is it my imagination. I see on Youtube that a lot of throttle bodies have adjustments for idle, is this the same?

 

[rottenronnie]

Yes, that screw is kinda/sorta an Idle-Screw, except base-idle speed is controlled by the ECU via software.

The active idle is controlled by the ECU that controls the Idle Air Controller which compensates for any additional load at idle, (such as the AC compressor) kicking on.

Pop your IAC out and make sure it isn't gummed up or "carboned" up. It is a major control valve and has to operate smoothly to control airflow behind the Throttle Body.

I would look there first.

Good luck!

 

[Tincup]

Thanks as usual Ronnie, The IAC, TPS, are new. I've been chasing this problem for 2 years. I'm running a tune from Torri at Unleashed Tuning, I should probably reach out to him.

 

[rottenronnie]

Eventually, you can put your Throttle Body Screw back where it was. The fact that changing its position seemed to have helped, is pointing to an issue with idle air control and/or the info the ECU is receiving from the IAC and TPS sensors.

A new replacement component (like your IAC and/or TPS) is not often recognized by the ECU immediately.
Whether or not this issue tripped your check engine light, I'd do a hard reset on the ECU by disconnecting both battery cables, touching them together for a few seconds, then reattaching them to the battery.

Your TPS and IAC are the MAIN players here, unless one of those new units is defective (?)

 

[rottenronnie]

Thanks as usual Ronnie, The IAC, TPS, are new. I've been chasing this problem for 2 years. I'm running a tune from Torri at Unleashed Tuning, I should probably reach out to him.

Any progress??

 

[AMS3]

Thanks as usual Ronnie, The IAC, TPS, are new. I've been chasing this problem for 2 years. I'm running a tune from Torri at Unleashed Tuning, I should probably reach out to him.

Got a question about the tune. I've looked at his website a few times and want to get a tune. Which one are you running, and was it plug and play, or do you have to be a software wizard to install? Once installed, what difference did you notice, and did you gain any horsepower?