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Thanks! Glad your back 
Any Questions?
- Thread starter rottenronnie
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I bought the SCT tuner when they first came out from Marty . I think he was the first to have them ! He’s been out of business for a long time . No idea what he did in his tune. The tuner has the stock , towing and the higher power tune
93 octane or something. It ran stronger with it ! I wish I had waited for unleaded tuning to come out with the SCT tuner . Truck was basically stock at the time with a performance trans valve body , lessor restriction muffler and K&N setup , then I added the Cherry performance throttle body when they first came out ! I don’t tow and rarely have more than 1 other person in the truck .. so not sure if moving the AIT would even make any difference ,, that does appear to be a lot of timing being pulled and no idea it the gain out ways the any bad possibilities .. I wish I knew what parameters he changed on his tune , but I believe he stayed on the safe side …
Yes, I did the ole' swapper-roo with DC Performance back in 2005 cross-shipping a flashed (tuned) ECU for a new, one via mail. Tune was by Chris Jensen.
Who would have thought that created a shortage (and big price increase on E.C.U.s in the future)??
I later tried tunes via SCT Controllers from Marty and Unleashed, finally settling on dyno-tunes from Chris Jensen again, the original Tuner!
If your truck is tuned, it's unlikely a sensor relocate would do much of anything.
Who would have thought that created a shortage (and big price increase on E.C.U.s in the future)??
I later tried tunes via SCT Controllers from Marty and Unleashed, finally settling on dyno-tunes from Chris Jensen again, the original Tuner!
If your truck is tuned, it's unlikely a sensor relocate would do much of anything.
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Ok , Thanks for the great info .. I’ll leave it as is .
Since you had Marty’s tunes , did he do a decent job in your opinion , pros or cons ? Or would using either Torries or Jensen be a better option ,,, without a Dyno ?
I did have a small problem after Marty’s tune and met him at a GTG here in Florida and he hooked up his computer on the truck to see if something was out of whack .. No idea if he changed anything while looking at it ! Around my area it seems to Be more get the tune or SCT’s using Torrie at unleashed . I understand when getting any of these guys SCT will be a canned tune and need to be fine tuned using a dyno and adjusted for different mods which can be emailed or something if needed .
I have forgotten how to send a PM which may have been a better way to respond, but there aren't many members on here anyway, and you asked for specifics...
Canned tunes can be surprisingly close to perfection IF the Tuner is good at what they do.
Marty tried very hard but was unable to provide a quality tune for my truck.
A few issues I had with his tunes:
At one point, my JTEC controller re-wrote itself back to the base-code which is an emergency measure when things are too far away from, well, the base-code. There is some Skynet stuff, right there!
That was MY expereince with Marty's tune(s) and may not be yours. He offered me money back as well as additional tunes, etc. Like I said, he tried very hard.
Then I tried a local buddy with a Viper that we both thought could tune. Same tranny issues, same comments about not touching those areas. A bit too much advance and number 8 popped. Oh well, I wanted to rebuild it stronger anyway and was lucky the damage wasn't much.
Getting THE WHOLE TUNE RIGHT is a talent, and that is where an experienced Tuner comes in. The experienced ones don't seem to have the common problem of inadvertently changing things in the tune they didn't intend on changing!
Tunes from Tory at Unleashed were fine.
Chris Jensen is the Tuner that other Tuners call and is the only guy I'll use.
Canned tunes can be surprisingly close to perfection IF the Tuner is good at what they do.
Marty tried very hard but was unable to provide a quality tune for my truck.
A few issues I had with his tunes:
- Torque Management was ON in spite of it showing OFF within the tune. So, w.o.t. shifts briefly killed power on the change, which is the way it was setup from new and is a common thing to shut off with a tune. (A problem with the tune).
- Holding the throttle at 2500 in Neutral or Park then releasing it quick caused the rpm to hang there then drop over time by unequal amounts, then eventually drop back to idle. This isnt something you would typically do but it does point to underlying issues. (A problem with the tune).
- The auto trans had line pressure issues and would shift HARSH enough to break something, even at light-throttle. This one in particular is a common issue with Tuners that aren't as familiar with Mopars as they need to be. They all say the same thing: "It says this or that in the lookup tables" but actually DRIVING the vehicle told a very different story. (A problem with the tune).
At one point, my JTEC controller re-wrote itself back to the base-code which is an emergency measure when things are too far away from, well, the base-code. There is some Skynet stuff, right there!
That was MY expereince with Marty's tune(s) and may not be yours. He offered me money back as well as additional tunes, etc. Like I said, he tried very hard.
Then I tried a local buddy with a Viper that we both thought could tune. Same tranny issues, same comments about not touching those areas. A bit too much advance and number 8 popped. Oh well, I wanted to rebuild it stronger anyway and was lucky the damage wasn't much.
Getting THE WHOLE TUNE RIGHT is a talent, and that is where an experienced Tuner comes in. The experienced ones don't seem to have the common problem of inadvertently changing things in the tune they didn't intend on changing!
Tunes from Tory at Unleashed were fine.
Chris Jensen is the Tuner that other Tuners call and is the only guy I'll use.
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Hmmm interesting .. will have to check those things out on mine . The trans thing sounds like a maybe if memory serves me ,, haven’t really driven it since my health issues going on about 3 years now ..the trans shift at lower speeds appeared off even after I installed the Suncoast valve body ,, WOT appears solid and it would shift and chirp the tires but did seem to be a little longer on the shifts not fast and crisp.
The throttle and 2500 rpm I can check pretty quickly in the driveway since at the moment I’ve put it on storage insurance .
Since Marty as he stated years ago was joining the military and the people that run the business won’t honor the life time tune warranty im somewhat stuck . No idea if the SCT can be set up with others tunes like unleashed ?
Oh ,, I had heard that Marty’s tune took out someone’s motor back then on here .. Must have been your engine .. that actually made me worried at the time . Anyway you look at it it stinks to have that happen .
NO, it wasn't Marty's tune that took out my engine, but it WAS too much timing in the tune.
Yes, you provide the serial number on the back of your SCT Controller to the new Tuner and you're good to go.
As Chris is notoriously bad at getting back to someone, Unleashed is likely your best bet.
The cable adjustment on our autos is super-touchy. Make sure it moves AS SOON AS the throttle does. With that, make sure it isn't already pulling on the cable at idle.
It's very easy to adjust, there just isn't much leeway. Let me know if you want more info.
Ronnie
Yes, you provide the serial number on the back of your SCT Controller to the new Tuner and you're good to go.
As Chris is notoriously bad at getting back to someone, Unleashed is likely your best bet.
The cable adjustment on our autos is super-touchy. Make sure it moves AS SOON AS the throttle does. With that, make sure it isn't already pulling on the cable at idle.
It's very easy to adjust, there just isn't much leeway. Let me know if you want more info.
Ronnie
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Great info!
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What do you think of braided stainless steel brake lines? Seems like you can't see what's going on under the braided stainless steel covering as far as condition of the lines go.
just curious since the Queen may need those changed when she gets back on the road Someday.
Wifey:
If you are needing to replace yours anyway, the braided ones look nice(r) and compared to the old originals, pedal feel could improve.
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What do I need in order to get the new tunes in the my SCT ?.. I remember their was some program you had to download your own computer .. I had that on one of my old laptops which went . Or would I have to send it to Unleashed ? I remember something about the SCT has some sort of lock or something years back .
I adjusted the cable years ago when added the valve body ! Got rid of that hunting the trucks were having on the 1-2 shit and been fine ever since . Yes it was touchy to find the right spot and took a few tries . I’ll defiantly check it again to be sure . My thoughts were like you stated in the previous post that it’s possibly in the tune
.
I replaced the factor power steering lines 2 times using the braided lines and AN fitting .. for some reason the Braided lines keep getting a hole in them at the jus above steering pump connection. Whar a mess that makes . Is there any reason besides a defective spot in the braided line that would cause that . It’s actuall made me shy away from adding the Braided brake lines !
I feel your pain with leaking lines.
The braided power steering lines I tried leaked as well, which is not what I wanted after replacing the leaking o.e.m. lines!
An even bigger negative result was the replacement lines were a smaller diameter (less capacity) and gave the steering a different feel.
The really different feel was on a quick left-to-right or a quick right-to-left such as evading a large four-legged critter on the highway. The steering would "snag" at a certain point and stop the wheel from turning. Kind of like A.B.S. but stopping the wrong wheel from turning.
So, off they came...
Of course, not all braided lines leak and I'd personally try some on the brakes if it was time to replace the originals.
The power steering lines see roughly the same high pressure as the brake lines so they need to be a quality item, braided or not.
There seems to be an abundance of aftermarket CRAP lately that doesn't fit or work or last, so it's hard to decide sometimes whether to change o.e.m. for something "better".
The braided power steering lines I tried leaked as well, which is not what I wanted after replacing the leaking o.e.m. lines!
An even bigger negative result was the replacement lines were a smaller diameter (less capacity) and gave the steering a different feel.
The really different feel was on a quick left-to-right or a quick right-to-left such as evading a large four-legged critter on the highway. The steering would "snag" at a certain point and stop the wheel from turning. Kind of like A.B.S. but stopping the wrong wheel from turning.
So, off they came...
Of course, not all braided lines leak and I'd personally try some on the brakes if it was time to replace the originals.
The power steering lines see roughly the same high pressure as the brake lines so they need to be a quality item, braided or not.
There seems to be an abundance of aftermarket CRAP lately that doesn't fit or work or last, so it's hard to decide sometimes whether to change o.e.m. for something "better".
What do I need in order to get the new tunes in the my SCT ?.. I remember their was some program you had to download your own computer .. I had that on one of my old laptops which went . Or would I have to send it to Unleashed ? I remember something about the SCT has some sort of lock or something years back .
I adjusted the cable years ago when added the valve body ! Got rid of that hunting the trucks were having on the 1-2 shit and been fine ever since . Yes it was touchy to find the right spot and took a few tries . I’ll defiantly check it again to be sure . My thoughts were like you stated in the previous post that it’s possibly in the tune
Our SCT controllers are pretty ancient now.
I believe the software needed was called LiveLoad DCX to get tunes in and out of the SCT controller, but it's been quite a while since I've changed any of the tunes in mine and I'm not currently home to look.
Your Tuner should/might be able to help you out.
SCT no longer supports our original Controllers, and no longer have the software LiveLoad download link on their site (and haven't for 3 years).
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Here is the X3 Liveload Software for our original controllers: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tkfl91e556ny78i/LiveLoadDCX.rar?dl=0
It allows you to get Tunes into the Controller. Without the Software, you can't change the tunes currently in it.
Thanks to: Torrie from Unleashed Tuning for the Software!
(Don't lose it as it was hard to track down.)
It allows you to get Tunes into the Controller. Without the Software, you can't change the tunes currently in it.
Thanks to: Torrie from Unleashed Tuning for the Software!
(Don't lose it as it was hard to track down.)
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I usually go with oem and don't like new and improved stuff unless it really works. I'm thinking the lines would need replaced due to time if nothing else? However I'm not sure if time counts when they haven't been used or exposed to elements. I think 6 - 10 years is the recommended time on brake lines?I feel your pain with leaking lines.
The braided power steering lines I tried leaked as well, which is not what I wanted after replacing the leaking o.e.m. lines!
An even bigger negative result was the replacement lines were a smaller diameter (less capacity) and gave the steering a different feel.
The really different feel was on a quick left-to-right or a quick right-to-left such as evading a large four-legged critter on the highway. The steering would "snag" at a certain point and stop the wheel from turning. Kind of like A.B.S. but stopping the wrong wheel from turning.
So, off they came...
Of course, not all braided lines leak and I'd personally try some on the brakes if it was time to replace the originals.
The power steering lines see roughly the same high pressure as the brake lines so they need to be a quality item, braided or not.
There seems to be an abundance of aftermarket CRAP lately that doesn't fit or work or last, so it's hard to decide sometimes whether to change o.e.m. for something "better".
Yes indeed.
The brake lines on my motorcycle are 17 year old originals (still look new). These are years past their recommended replacement interval.
The brake lines on my truck (also originals) still look new.
Both kept in a heated garage.
Big difference when kept indoors. UV is a "rubber killer".
The brake lines on my motorcycle are 17 year old originals (still look new). These are years past their recommended replacement interval.
The brake lines on my truck (also originals) still look new.
Both kept in a heated garage.
Big difference when kept indoors. UV is a "rubber killer".
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I had a master cylinder blow out in my '68 Fargo (dodge) 1/2 ton back in the '80's. No big deal, swapped it out with a new one. While bleeding the brakes, the line feeding the rear wheels blew out from the pressure that the new master cylinder was making. Again no big deal, just needed some new brake line. What I didn't know at the time was the lines needed to be double flared. Imagine this: I spoke to an old mechanic who showed me how to flare connections...no google or youtube lol. I still have that flaring tool.
Oh just to clarify; Ronnie and I were still reasonably young in the 80's!
Oh just to clarify; Ronnie and I were still reasonably young in the 80's!
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