Any Questions?

:)
rottenronnie said:
Here's more incentive (?) for getting a tune:

Ask for a Valet Tune in addition to your performance tune (no extra cost) and if you ever have to leave your truck in a repair place or dodgy area, your truck can't be "revved up" or even floored.

In other words, it would be a low-speed chase if someone stole your truck.

Just remember not to leave your SCT Controller in the truck. :)
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Very awesome advice!! How do you change the tune to match the occasion? Is that what the SCT controller does? Sorry I didn't look it up first but it just dawned on me that it could be since it's a controller lol

and I think your last sentence answered my question already - duhhh read and comprehend before posting!! Hahahaha
 
rottenronnie said:
Here's more incentive (?) for getting a tune:

Ask for a Valet Tune in addition to your performance tune (no extra cost) and if you ever have to leave your truck in a repair place or dodgy area, your truck can't be "revved up" or even floored.

In other words, it would be a low-speed chase if someone stole your truck.

Just remember not to leave your SCT Controller in the truck. :)
Click to expand...
Yes it’s a good safety tune .. I have that ,, damn hit the throttle and plop hahaha ! Just remember to take a few minutes to put in the regular or performance tune before driving it again or a golf cart will be watching you in its rearview mirror..
 
VIPR PWR said:
Yes it’s a good safety tune .. I have that ,, damn hit the throttle and plop hahaha ! Just remember to take a few minutes to put in the regular or performance tune before driving it again or a golf cart will be watching you in its rearview mirror..
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Hahaha! That's funny! An SRT-10 That can't get out of its own way :D
 
Wifey said:
Hahaha! That's funny! An SRT-10 That can't get out of its own way :D
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O believe me when I put in the valet tune , I had no idea . It was fine putting around town till I decided to hit the gas peddle at a stop light . Scared the you know what out of me that something just went caboose hahaha .. then realized what tune I had and changed it .. back to WOT again .
 
I had Chris Jensen name my valet tune "My Son Just Turned 16" :p

I installed it one time when the truck was at the dealership and forgot to change tunes when I picked it up. I hit the 2500rpm rev limiter like a ton of bricks, I thought I had hit something. Life can be tough when you are trying to show off!
 
oldcolt said:
I had Chris Jensen name my valet tune "My Son Just Turned 16" :p

I installed it one time when the truck was at the dealership and forgot to change tunes when I picked it up. I hit the 2500rpm rev limiter like a ton of bricks, I thought I had hit something. Life can be tough when you are trying to show off!
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Exactly , it’s a 10 with training wheels for the kids hahaha
 
HELLO !!

I seem to remember you were working on a Throttle Body (?) the last time we were in contact.

I've been working on my engine a bit more and have it performing well.

The last issue was to fix the fuel-wash caused by the short injectors I was using. As they are a 30 degree spray pattern injector, they were too far up inside the well and the fog was recondensing on the side of the well, falling onto the piston and causing fuel wash.

As liquid fuel doesn't burn I could see an area on the piston top that wasn't seeing combustion.

The injector wells are drilled lower and the fuel rail pads milled, so all is well again. The entire piston top is black again so in theory, that should provide more power than before.

The best run I had before was 11.70 at 115 m.p.h. which is good for a 5585 pound tank!

I will see how it performs in the Spring.

Good to see you are still around!
 
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rottenronnie said:
HELLO !!

I seem to remember you were working on a Throttle Body (?) the last time we were in contact.

I've been working on my engine a bit more and have it performing well.

The last issue was to fix the fuel-wash caused by the short injectors I was using. As they are a 30 degree spray pattern injector, they were too far up inside the well and the fog was recondensing on the side of the well, falling onto the piston and causing fuel wash.

As liquid fuel doesn't burn I could see an area on the piston top that wasn't seeing combustion.

The injector wells are drilled lower and the fuel rail pads milled, so all is well again. The entire piston top is black again so in theory, that should provide more power than before.

The best run I had before was 11.70 at 115 m.p.h. which is good for a 5585 pound tank!

I will see how it performs in the Spring.

Good to see you are still around!
Click to expand...
Well damn Ronnie ,, that extra pooling fuel just needed a little NOX to make it burn .. :eek::D
 
Noisy lifter won't go away, it does come and go a bit. Thinking heads may have to come off and yeah spend some money. Question: should I change cam, lifters, pushrods, valve springs if so what to. The better than OEM? Hardened pushrods? Chromoly pushrods? 212 218 cam or 218 224 cam. Single or double valve springs? Or just replace shit lifter and chuck it back together?
Is it easier to pull front off truck to work on it?
 
Kiwi SRT10 said:
Noisy lifter won't go away, it does come and go a bit. Thinking heads may have to come off and yeah spend some money. Question: should I change cam, lifters, pushrods, valve springs if so what to. The better than OEM? Hardened pushrods? Chromoly pushrods? 212 218 cam or 218 224 cam. Single or double valve springs? Or just replace shit lifter and chuck it back together?
Is it easier to pull front off truck to work on it?
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Dang those are definitely questions for Ronnie! Good luck with the fix!
 
Kiwi SRT10 said:
Noisy lifter won't go away, it does come and go a bit. Thinking heads may have to come off and yeah spend some money. Question: should I change cam, lifters, pushrods, valve springs if so what to. The better than OEM? Hardened pushrods? Chromoly pushrods? 212 218 cam or 218 224 cam. Single or double valve springs? Or just replace shit lifter and chuck it back together?
Is it easier to pull front off truck to work on it?
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Good morning, afternoon, evening(?)
Good questions, but it depends what YOU want to do.
Has the engine been apart before?
If it hasn't, your other head will be sitting on a thicker head gasket than the new head gasket offers.
If it has been apart, maybe pull the Intake, and the head, change the noisy lifter, install one new head and header gasket and done. That is one option.

Considerably more work to change the cam:
The pan has to come off and you need to lift the engine up enough to detach the oil pickup tube from the timing chain cover.

I just pull the rad to be able to get at stuff.

OEM pushrods are designed to flex/bend to prevent high rpm engine damage.

I've never used an off the shelf cam but 236/238 @.050" (ground on a 114) is getting up there for ECU tolerance. Low(er) vacuum than that will trip it up and as you are likely running a stock compression ratio (?) I'd lean towards a milder cam than above, even at sea-level and with a stick for an enjoyable power range and to keep the ECU happy.

And while the heads are off, you might as well have them freshened up and ported so that new cam can show its worth!

Spring pressures don't have to be crazy high. Mine are only 40 pounds more than stock (open).
 
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Got my rotors and pads today, holy shieet the fronts are heavy. Probably wait till Spring to put them on, unless we have a mild winter.
 
Try holding the 05-06 caliper in place while trying to start a mount bolt lol.
 
rottenronnie said:
Good morning, afternoon, evening(?)
Good questions, but it depends what YOU want to do.
Has the engine been apart before?
If it hasn't, your other head will be sitting on a thicker head gasket than the new head gasket offers.
If it has been apart, maybe pull the Intake, and the head, change the noisy lifter, install one new head and header gasket and done. That is one option.

Considerably more work to change the cam:
The pan has to come off and you need to lift the engine up enough to detach the oil pickup tube from the timing chain cover.

I just pull the rad to be able to get at stuff.

OEM pushrods are designed to flex/bend to prevent high rpm engine damage.

I've never used an off the shelf cam but 236/238 @.050" (ground on a 114) is getting up there for ECU tolerance. Low(er) vacuum than that will trip it up and as you are likely running a stock compression ratio (?) I'd lean towards a milder cam than above, even at sea-level and with a stick for an enjoyable power range and to keep the ECU happy.

And while the heads are off, you might as well have them freshened up and ported so that new cam can show its worth!

Spring pressures don't have to be crazy high. Mine are only 40 pounds more than stock (open).
Click to expand...

Yes heads have been off to fix coolant external leak. Took 20 thou off heads and new stem seals, valves lapped in. Clean as new. Still has hone marks in the bores at 70k miles. At 77k miles now and have to do something.
 
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