can a stock engine hold a S/C?

Sure i think 5-7 psi not 100% sure but its not guaranteed, I know a guy with a paxton on his stock truck and he got about 1000miles and she went kablooie..
 
I had Sean dyno tune it at 542rwhp/550tq
 
Scott said it best: boost doesn't kill engines, tuning does. A stock engine is fine with a blower and a good tune, especially at our altitude. But without a good tune, it won't live.
 
Forge the internals if you are looking to make over 600rwhp.
 
No it's not because of the lack of the intercooler. I use water/meth and my low boost to control intake heat.I like the powerband of the Roe (twinscrew) compared to the Paxton (centrifugal) though.
 
I bought Paxton the heard about all the kaboom without a motor build, it's not worth driving around and holding back or worrying about if and when. Going to do a motor build this winter and do things right and get the most out of it without as much risk with better rwhp
 
I had a Paxton on my Stock Engine for a Year or better. Never had a lick of problems. But still went ahead and had the Engine Built by Sean and always run a good tune. Also running Meth and Water on the Truck, no Problems at all.
 
LightningRaper said:
It's not worth driving around and holding back or worrying about if and when. Going to do a motor build this winter and do things right and get the most out of it without as much risk with better rwhp
Click to expand...

I agree. Heck, even a NA stock engine can go boom but if you limit the risks and do what you can to beef up (forge) the rotating mass then your chances are literally zero to none at those "fun bolt on SC" ranges (5-7lbs). Also, with a built motor, you can go to town on your hp/T needs, build it for war if you want!!

If I was going to supercharge one of these trucks, I'd definitely build the bottom end and put all the goodies inside. That way you can drive it like you stole it and have something a stock truck driver won't - peace of mind. ;)

In short, yes your truck will be OK, for how long? It's a lottery. It maybe OK, it may not be. As others have said, it comes down to not only a good SC kit but a good tune. If you go the extra mile and do it once, do it right, then it'll also come down to a good engine build. Have fun!!



:burnout:
 
The thing with these motors stock is the pistons. The first ring land is really close to the top of the piston. So they don't really stand up to much before they break. So with a super charger it's more stress on the already weak piston.
 
I had always wondered this too. As I feel like I would always be worried, I decided that maybe an N/A build was better for me... Now that I have put enough money asside for my N/A build, I can't stop thinking about leaving those vulnerable pistons in there! A...N...D HERE WE GO... this is like a damn disease with these trucks. So my truck is going to receive its UD pulley, and TB... (when I finally get it) for this year. All my buddies keep saying "why don't you just put a blower on it". I feel like I am starting to crumble under the pressure. But I do not want to spend the money on a F/I build if I can't utilize the power of the blower, so I am going to start pricing out forged build.... I can only imagine the $$$. Something tells me I might get in over my head and go back the the N/A build... With that being said, does anyone know what would be involved in just changing out the pistons and leaving everything else stock (motor has 30k) on it.
 
Not really that easy bro nor that inexpensive. Pistons and rods are weak links in our engines. Most piston/rod kits are based on Chevy parts and not "Made" for our engines. Tolerances can be machined to accept Chevy rods, pistons, and even lifters! Problem with these parts is being offset pins in pistons putting additional stress on cylinder walls due to offsets. Use parts designed for the Viper engine!! You also need to figure in bearings, gaskets, seals, etc. while in there may as well add a cam, lifters, valve springs and pushrods. It's very much a dominoe effect but it is common sense to do it all at once while inside. Plan your machine shop to have a few thousand in balancing and blue printing short block.
It's the best investment for your dollar! It's the basis for any build whether Chevy, Dodge, Furd, whatever make. If you plan to spray, boost, or bump compression it should be your first consideration.
There are reasonable amounts of boost or spray with the Correct tune that can lead to many miles of fun, but usually one will keep going for more.....
then Kablooey!!
 
I got about 6000 miles on 2 mtrs with a pro charger.but kept uping the boost.as for doing a forged build find a good honest shop that's not going to see viper as dollar signs.my shop did lots of research had to bore cam journals called viper race team got me a special grind off 1 of there blank cams blue printed balanced ported heads intake an lots more.total cost for there work was less than 4500 I supplied pistons an rod kit from tony at jtsvp. not 1 problem an pushing 12#boost on apaxton.
 
roughly how much would a rebuild (forged) cost ? to do it right including a cam
 
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