emissions, am I screwed?

[Frosty05]

Registration is due in December, can't get the 10 to come to ready on evap or heated o2.
I tried the drive cycle a few times, everything set but the above, and now the weather has gone to crap.
Any suggestions to get at least one of the monitors to set?
I can have 1 not ready and still pass, looks like I'll be driving it in the crud, just want to minimize the amount of salt/snow exposure.

Thanks in advance

 

[SRT2SLOW]

Put the stock tune back in. Torrie turns off the rear 02 sensors.

 

[shorty]

Registration is due in December, can't get the 10 to come to ready on evap or heated o2.
I tried the drive cycle a few times, everything set but the above, and now the weather has gone to crap.
Any suggestions to get at least one of the monitors to set?
I can have 1 not ready and still pass, looks like I'll be driving it in the crud, just want to minimize the amount of salt/snow exposure.

Thanks in advance

Come to Texas, no salt/snow and $25 plus a case of Coors gets ya inspected. :rock:

 

[TheMoparConnection]

you can force run the EVAP monitor with a DRBIII, any dealer will be able to perform that service

 

[Frosty05]

you can force run the EVAP monitor with a DRBIII, any dealer will be able to perform that service

Think I might do this.
Already put the stock tune back in as well, guess it's a good thing I haven't taken off the stock pipes yet.

That actually leads me to a good question, is this going to be a problem when I go to headers and 3" catless ?

 

[Frosty05]

Come to Texas, no salt/snow and $25 plus a case of Coors gets ya inspected. :rock:

Yeah...one of these days.
Seriously I dream of leaving this god forsaken state.

 

[ViperPete]

Move to FL.

Great roads, no snow- no rust, no potholes, and no emissions. Beaches and babes galore.

 

[Frosty05]

you can force run the EVAP monitor with a DRBIII, any dealer will be able to perform that service

So I brought her in for the drb-III, and dealer said they hooked it up but couldn't run the test. Said they even called a "tech" (assuming viper tech I guess) and were told that it couldn't be force run on this model.
Idk, anyone else smelling BS here?
Of course they still charged me.
Told me I need to drive it another 5 or 6 hundred miles before it'll come to ready. So I guess im out of options now.

Adding to the fun, now I have no pressure on my clutch and can't get the shifter into gear. Going to try bleeding it tomorrow, but I have a feeling the slave is gone.

So I have to fix it to drive it to pass emissions before the end of december.

No idea what to do here. Seriously, illinois fk'n sucks.

 

[shorty]

No idea what to do here. Seriously, illinois fk'n sucks.

Wonder why so many of you guys in the north are moving to TEXAS? Could it be Obama and Emanuel regulating you to death? Plus snow, ice and salt. Seems to me that is enough reason to get out.

Sorry for your problems on emissions, we just do not have that here in TEXAS. Hope someone here can help.

 

[hawk02]

Move to FL.

Great roads, no snow- no rust, no potholes, and no emissions. Beaches and babes galore.

Soon, very soon hopefully:rock::burnout:

 

[Psycho1122]

Your going to have to have at least 5 stone cold starts w/ drive cycles. On your stone cold starts, turn on everything during warm up. Lights, fan, a/c or defrost (for you, set temp. to full warm so you don't freeze...LOL) etc. This allows the system to test the O2 heating circuit.

Be sure to have between 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel!! A MUST.

Drive cycles should have steady state throttle at freeway speeds and a full 4th or 3rd gear deceleration from freeway speed all the way down to 20 m.p.h. or less. This keeps the injectors OFF until close to idle.

I was able to get my evap to become ready going through this process. About a total of 60 miles or so combined.

Good Luck.

 

[Frosty05]

Thanks for the tip, but I don't think evap is gonna happen. From what I've been told it needs to be over 40 degrees ambient for it to run, so I was counting on heated o2. I only need 1 more to come to ready and I can go to test without being rejected.

Right now im trying the bleed. No fluid was visible in the reservoir, but theres not much to indicate a leak under the truck. Just a little bit a wet spot where the trans/bell housing meet. Idk, could be leftover from my last trans fluid change.

 

[Frosty05]

Just an update, bled the clutch (with a little help from the search function and a 1x2). Blew out a wad of white crap and then it went really smooth. Guess my truck was just a little pent up lol.
Took it for a spin, its never shifted this good

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

take it out, clear all the codes with the battery unhooked for 20 minutes, drive it on the freeway at 55 mph for 100 miles, that's the way we have reset all of ours, works almost every time

 

[Frosty05]

take it out, clear all the codes with the battery unhooked for 20 minutes, drive it on the freeway at 55 mph for 100 miles, that's the way we have reset all of ours, works almost every time

Thanks, I tried that and the drive cycle thing a few times. Last time it was out I did a 150 mile highway round trip, cruise set to 65. Between all of the runs all the monitors went to ready except evap and the heated o2.

Also just checked it again after the 30 min trip I ran to test out the clutch, still says negative on the same 2 monitors.
Not throwing any codes either. Just not ready status on those monitors.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Thanks, I tried that and the drive cycle thing a few times. Last time it was out I did a 150 mile highway round trip, cruise set to 65. Between all of the runs all the monitors went to ready except evap and the heated o2.

Also just checked it again after the 30 min trip I ran to test out the clutch, still says negative on the same 2 monitors.
Not throwing any codes either. Just not ready status on those monitors.

cant do it at 65, it HAS to be 55mph, it wont set at 60 or above

 

[Frosty05]

I'll give that a shot then. Don't think I ever saw the speed cap mentioned.
Thanks for the tip. Good to know.

 

[Final GTS]

Let me guess, you have O2 simulators on this truck, or have a tune file from a vendor, or a 2-bar sensor & blower?


Just to clear up a few things on this thread:

1. You CAN force an EVAP test. However, it is NOT for the monitor, it is a "repair testing function". It will have zero impact on your readiness monitors.

2. Turning off your rear O2's will NOT allow you to pass, only keep CEL off. Just because you turn them off does not mean that you are automatically given a "ready" indication.

3. EVAP will never, ever run until your heated O2 passes. Stop trying.

4. 2-Bar tunes will not allow OBD-2 testing in standard form due to the "excessive altitude" it thinks the vehicle is at all the time, as the MAP acts as the Baro sensor at key-on. Plan for this with a secondary sensor and tune file.

5. 170 Thermostats can cause issues with passing monitors as they will freeze the adaptives if you spend enough time in high gears ar constant speed on cooler days.

 

[Frosty05]

Let me guess, you have O2 simulators on this truck, or have a tune file from a vendor, or a 2-bar sensor & blower?

Right now the truck has stock exhaust. Manifolds, cats, mufflers, resonators, and even all 4 o2 sensors.
Tune was reverted to factory about 2 months ago, and my 170 tstat is chilling on my toolbox. Factory is in there now.

That's the really aggravating thing about all of this. Everything has been reverted to stock and I haven't messed with the pipes yet.
It would be one thing if I had, then I would accept the blame for my problems, but on a basically stock truck (just have cai and shifter now) this is freaking ridiculous, and all because of a dead battery from what I gather.

Thanks for the input though. Makes me feel a little better that the dealership wasn't trying to con me (purposly)

 

[stealth78]

Let me guess, you have O2 simulators on this truck, or have a tune file from a vendor, or a 2-bar sensor & blower?


Just to clear up a few things on this thread:

1. You CAN force an EVAP test. However, it is NOT for the monitor, it is a "repair testing function". It will have zero impact on your readiness monitors.

2. Turning off your rear O2's will NOT allow you to pass, only keep CEL off. Just because you turn them off does not mean that you are automatically given a "ready" indication.

3. EVAP will never, ever run until your heated O2 passes. Stop trying.

4. 2-Bar tunes will not allow OBD-2 testing in standard form due to the "excessive altitude" it thinks the vehicle is at all the time, as the MAP acts as the Baro sensor at key-on. Plan for this with a secondary sensor and tune file.

5. 170 Thermostats can cause issues with passing monitors as they will freeze the adaptives if you spend enough time in high gears ar constant speed on cooler days.

I know you are extremely knowledgeable about this stuff so I don't mean to second guess you, but MA has really strict emissions and some how my truck passed with Headers, hi-flo's, no rear cats, 3" exhaust, Torrie's tune, U.D. pulley, JTSVP T.B., and 170* therm. Maybe I was just lucky???