Geodrillers HP problems

[evanandretti]

Well mine puts out heat I'll tell you that much. And Ronnie what is "bad gas mileage" on these trucks? Lately I have been averaging 10mpg

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Funny Ronnie days that because mine has run at a computer verified 180 and max of 200 in TEXAS summer heat(now) with a/c cranking. Now, I like my cars to run on the cooler side but always wondered about this? Even before tuning, never put a lower temp stat? Fan NEVER KICKS ONTO HIGH SPEED as I've heard many other TEXAS guys 10s? If there is not a significant combustion due to weak a/f charge, boom cool temps! On the ole high compression engines I've messed with , cooling was always an issue. Possibly also why some 10s take spray and boost for hundreds of runs and dynos and track passes and have 60-80k miles and still fine! Yet some pop at the slightest increase in cylinder pressure. Speaking on factory bottom ends! In other words the "factory freaks" that are actually perfectly timed and ground cams with correct cylinder pressure and compression will respond better to headers, etc, etc while the incorrectly ground /installed cam 10s are basically set up for boost/spray having been retarded and creating lower cylinder pressure engine due to the lower compression ratio dynamically.

May be onto something guys! Im so close to tearing into mine just to verify and correct if needed. Not camping mine till I get the best out of the factory setup E.T. Wise. 12.8 Here I come!

 

[Geodriller]

Have you had your truck to a dyno? What did it do?
Using leaded race fuel with cats will plug them pretty quick, just as an example of a power killer.
A good billet cam will cost around 900 or so which is cheaper than a new o.e.m. cam (around 1200).
IF cam timing isn't a problem, it is an expensive test.
Getting TO the cam sprockets on these engines is no simple task because of the oil pickup inside the oil pan (it has to come off before the timing cover can). It was WAY easier to do this on the older Gen II Viper engines.

Because of the low bleed-down lifters, a compression test is inconclusive.
I don't (unfortunately) have a quick and easy test for you.
The biggest indicators are: The engines don't produce much heat,
they don't respond to modifications and they have low power numbers (and of course lousy gas mileage).

Ronnie

well, i have a tune to turn my fan on early, and it is not full blown summer here and my truck still runs close to 200.

my mpg is not great, but when i bought the truck and brought it home (all interstate for 120+ miles) the truck read close to 17mpg. like i said it was 90% interstate, but i still stay at almost 12mpg around town, and that is gettin on it sometimes.

also, i dont have any stock cats on my truck currently. all at once i put LTH, removed the two front cats (rears alredy gone) and put in HFC, and put on a 93 oct tune from torrie.

i noticed close to no difference after the mods. maybe a little more torque higher in the rev range, but i credit that to torries tune.

i do not have dyno results from before the mods but as of now i am sitting at

412/453 with torries 93 oct tune
415/425ish with the stock tune

this was on a dynojet dyno

also. everyone says a good billit cam is like $4500, how do i get that one for $900???? is that directly from you? and why is it so much cheaper than the rest?????

 

[Geodriller]

Ok, no amount of tuning can correct an advanced/retarded cam. Only way to do this is to verify valve events in degree increments. When you purchase an aftermarket cam you are given a spec card which has all pertinent info on each valve event opening and closing and point of max lift in degrees. A degree wheel (based on 360 degrees, circle) simply attached to the crank snout and a pointer affixed to the block will tell the story.

The cam is likely fine, but you may as well replace it while you have it torn down that far unless you dint have the spare 1k$ for cam,pushrods and valve springs. In that case degreeing the factory cam can provide generous results if installed or ground wrong. I think they may have purposefully ground them wrong and as I said there is a tattletale tool called a Cam Dr that can verify all specs to ensure it is ground right.

yeah, everything that ronnie says points to my cam being fine, but then why did i feel NOTHING when putting on mods that should have givin me AT LEAST 35hp at the tires???

i am just about ready to say screw it and buy a mild performance cam and have tony do his work on my truck. then it will not be a question, plus i can be right there and we can go over all my options on the spot and decide the best course of action and what to replace and what to reuse.

tony lives around 7-8 hours from me, so if the work is gunna be done, it is going to be tony that does it, that is just the bottom line. im sure other people know what they are doing, not disputing that at all, and every one that has had these different guys work on their trucks can verify it was done properly and correctly the first time. tony is the closest trustworthy person to me. plus i would like to ht up the dudes lake and have him show me some good fishing spots. lmao


i just simply dont know what else to do, and to spend half a G to find out there is a problem and then spend money on top of that to correct, might aswell just do it, right,.?? what exactly is this "cam Dr" is it something i can do, or does it have to be done by a prof. how expensive is it and do u think some other shops might alredy have it????


thanks again venomless_0, hahahahaha. jk

 

[rottenronnie]

Well mine puts out heat I'll tell you that much. And Ronnie what is "bad gas mileage" on these trucks? Lately I have been averaging 10mpg

Burt could likely give you the specifics on his increase in gas mileage since the swap.
I wish there was a simple way to tell if a cam timing issue existed other than what I've posted..
Geo, $4500 ??!!?? must have included way more than just a cam. No somewhere under a grand for a cam is about average.
I have no cams for sale.

 

[Geodriller]

Burt could likely give you the specifics on his increase in gas mileage since the swap.
I wish there was a simple way to tell if a cam timing issue existed other than what I've posted..
Geo, $4500 ??!!?? must have included way more than just a cam. No somewhere under a grand for a cam is about average.
I have no cams for sale.

oh ok, i did not know ur affiliation with the Striker goods,

 

[Humblex]

Sorry Geo, I hope you get this worked out friend.:hmmmm:

 

[Geodriller]

Sorry Geo, I hope you get this worked out friend.:hmmmm:

thanks brother man. hey how does ur 06 run. have you ever had it on a dyno, are you pleased with the performance and how does it measure up to other 10's:dontknow:

 

[Humblex]

I haven't been on a dyno and she seemed a little weak until I bought a SCT from Torrie. I think mine just needs a torque converter from Tony.

 

[oldcolt]

There is no way to diagnose the real issue with your truck on the net. Going to Stinker is a good move. Stink will spec a good cam for you, if that is the root cause of your problem. I'm sure he will get your truck haulin'!

 

[Humblex]

My issue is sometimes I will be driving down the road and all the sudden my parking break light and chime comes on for no apparent reason. The only temporary fix for me is to shut her down, engage the parking break, restart, and disengage the break. If I'm lucky it doesn't come back for a while.

 

[Geodriller]

There is no way to diagnose the real issue with your truck on the net. Going to Stinker is a good move. Stink will spec a good cam for you, if that is the root cause of your problem. I'm sure he will get your truck haulin'!

i have all the faith in the world for The Stink Man. Money is the issue, not the time.

My issue is sometimes I will be driving down the road and all the sudden my parking break light and chime comes on for no apparent reason. The only temporary fix for me is to shut her down, engage the parking break, restart, and disengage the break. If I'm lucky it doesn't come back for a while.

i have heard alot of peoples lights come on like that, it is proly related to the SCT. nothing is wrong and it wont hurt anything, just something that happens. i may be wrong, but that would be my diagnosis, but take it with a grain of salt

 

[Humblex]

Sadly this started happening way before the SCT, maybe a censor being loose is my only guess.

 

[Geodriller]

Sadly this started happening way before the SCT, maybe a censor being loose is my only guess.

hmm, my light stays on sometimes, but i just have to push the pedal up the last little 1/4 of an inch. like the spring is not pulling hard enough. but i have a rc and use it alot more than u do. the brake itself doesnt stick, just the light. i have had it happen with some of my other m/t vehicles

 

[evanandretti]

I asked the build date because I was thinking to myself, that MAYBE the 06's with a build date in 2005 were good to go... Then maybe emission laws changed Jan 2006 and all the later trucks built in 2006 got messed with. Again, just a thought? Haha

 

[Geodriller]

hmmmm. u may be onto something, maybe some other proven 06's can post their build dates and specs.............Anyone????????????


so, how do u think ur truck is runnin. is it about the same as mine or are you waitin for the full break in, have you gone wot yet???

 

[Mighty1]

Ok your numbers do look low , but i still dont think i would do that test what they told you to do . If your rings are not good you would be smoking , or burning oil .
So when you check your oils is it down at all or does it smoke at all .

In regards to the truck smoking if the rings were bad, I had a broken piston/ring (see pic) in my truck and it was not smoking at all. It did however have a lot of blowby which you can tell by removing the oil fill cap on the valve cover while the engine is running. There was a decent amount of smoke coming out from there on mine.

 

[oldcolt]

hmmmm. u may be onto something, maybe some other proven 06's can post their build dates and specs.............Anyone????????????


so, how do u think ur truck is runnin. is it about the same as mine or are you waitin for the full break in, have you gone wot yet???

Steve's truck and mine were built a few months apart, I don't have the exact dates.

 

[Geodriller]

Steve's truck and mine were built a few months apart, I don't have the exact dates.

Oldcolt, your truck was built:

March 15, 2006 at 1:00


what is Steves screen name?, or if he is not here and does not mind, what is his VIN, thanks to all the hard work ViperJeff has done we can find this out.

Just one of the many perks of registering your truck with jeff and how it helps us a VT owners......You Rock ViperJeff. thanks again buddy:rock::rock::rock:

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

Is your truck dyno tuned or have a box tune from Torrie? I didn't notice an expected noticeable difference when i did my catless mids, headers, bbk throttle body, and u/d pulley all at once until i put on Torries box tune. When i installed his tune i was still dissappointed, then i drove down to get him to tune it on the dyno.....WOW! Huge difference.... But i say you need to take it to the track...have you actually been in another RC 10 to makethe assumption that yours is lacking on power or are you jsut saying that because of your #'s?